Bravo Trim Position Sender Wiring
#1
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From: SW Ohio
Guys,
With the rewiring of our engine/harness, I am in the process of also rewiring new trim sender and limit switch. The limit switch is easy. It's just a switch. But the position sender is polarized, and has to be wired as such; one to the gauge and one to ground. The question is which is which. Both wires are terminated in bullet connectors; one male and one female. Anybody know which goes to the gauge and which goes to ground? The instructions assume you're just replacing and making established connections, and the OEM harness isn't any help. I know I can trial-and-error it, but I thought I'd ask and try and just get it right the first time.
Thanks. Brad.
With the rewiring of our engine/harness, I am in the process of also rewiring new trim sender and limit switch. The limit switch is easy. It's just a switch. But the position sender is polarized, and has to be wired as such; one to the gauge and one to ground. The question is which is which. Both wires are terminated in bullet connectors; one male and one female. Anybody know which goes to the gauge and which goes to ground? The instructions assume you're just replacing and making established connections, and the OEM harness isn't any help. I know I can trial-and-error it, but I thought I'd ask and try and just get it right the first time.
Thanks. Brad.
#2
If it is a 2 wire sender it is not polarized, it is just a resistor. You can check the OEM harness and see which one goes to ground if you want but it will work either way.
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#3
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From: SW Ohio
OK. That’s what I thought I understood about rheostats, but I know I read somewhere that it would read backwards if you wired it backwards. It might have been referring to the digital, 3-wire sender, though.
Thanks. Brad.
#4
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From: SW Ohio
Guys,
OK. Got the trim sender sorted out. Next question...
I've confirmed continuity for "down" trim and the trailer switch to the trim pump solenoid(s). But I've got nothing for "up" trim. So, I have to run a new wire for it that will run through the limit switch, then splice into the "up" wire before the trim pump. I've got options for wire, but they are all a dark blue, and I'd like light blue, like the unified coloring. I also don't know how much current this circuit carries. I know the wire coming out of the trim rocker switch is pretty small, but it connects to some wiring under the dash (for whatever reason, I guess SmartCraft functionality), so its run isn't that long. I'd say this run is going to be 15' at the least, and maybe the better part of 20'. Amazon, and the interwebs in general, have collections and assortments. I don't need or want an assortment. Where would a guy get a spool of an appropriate sized and colored wire for the run between the trim rocker switch, the limit switch and the trim pump?
Thanks. Brad.
OK. Got the trim sender sorted out. Next question...
I've confirmed continuity for "down" trim and the trailer switch to the trim pump solenoid(s). But I've got nothing for "up" trim. So, I have to run a new wire for it that will run through the limit switch, then splice into the "up" wire before the trim pump. I've got options for wire, but they are all a dark blue, and I'd like light blue, like the unified coloring. I also don't know how much current this circuit carries. I know the wire coming out of the trim rocker switch is pretty small, but it connects to some wiring under the dash (for whatever reason, I guess SmartCraft functionality), so its run isn't that long. I'd say this run is going to be 15' at the least, and maybe the better part of 20'. Amazon, and the interwebs in general, have collections and assortments. I don't need or want an assortment. Where would a guy get a spool of an appropriate sized and colored wire for the run between the trim rocker switch, the limit switch and the trim pump?
Thanks. Brad.
#5
Guys,
OK. Got the trim sender sorted out. Next question...
I've confirmed continuity for "down" trim and the trailer switch to the trim pump solenoid(s). But I've got nothing for "up" trim. So, I have to run a new wire for it that will run through the limit switch, then splice into the "up" wire before the trim pump. I've got options for wire, but they are all a dark blue, and I'd like light blue, like the unified coloring. I also don't know how much current this circuit carries. I know the wire coming out of the trim rocker switch is pretty small, but it connects to some wiring under the dash (for whatever reason, I guess SmartCraft functionality), so its run isn't that long. I'd say this run is going to be 15' at the least, and maybe the better part of 20'. Amazon, and the interwebs in general, have collections and assortments. I don't need or want an assortment. Where would a guy get a spool of an appropriate sized and colored wire for the run between the trim rocker switch, the limit switch and the trim pump?
Thanks. Brad.
OK. Got the trim sender sorted out. Next question...
I've confirmed continuity for "down" trim and the trailer switch to the trim pump solenoid(s). But I've got nothing for "up" trim. So, I have to run a new wire for it that will run through the limit switch, then splice into the "up" wire before the trim pump. I've got options for wire, but they are all a dark blue, and I'd like light blue, like the unified coloring. I also don't know how much current this circuit carries. I know the wire coming out of the trim rocker switch is pretty small, but it connects to some wiring under the dash (for whatever reason, I guess SmartCraft functionality), so its run isn't that long. I'd say this run is going to be 15' at the least, and maybe the better part of 20'. Amazon, and the interwebs in general, have collections and assortments. I don't need or want an assortment. Where would a guy get a spool of an appropriate sized and colored wire for the run between the trim rocker switch, the limit switch and the trim pump?
Thanks. Brad.
try
https://www.waytekwire.com/
or https://www.delcity.net/
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#6
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From: SW Ohio
Would you happen to know the amp draw of the trim solenoids? The wire coming out of the trim rocker switch is pretty small, but the wire that connects to the solenoids is considerably larger. I'm not familiar enough with wire gauges to know what either are, but I can go by amp draw if I know what that is.
Thanks. Brad.
#7
I don't know exactly but it's not much. Put an ohmmeter on the solenoid coil and see what the resistance is. Then divide by 14. That will tell you the steady state current draw.
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#8
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From: SW Ohio
#9
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#10
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From: SW Ohio
One small correction, for the record.. You divide 14 by the Ohms. Just to avoid confusion for future readers.
So, I get a 5.5 Ohms, if I'm reading the meter correctly (I'm not a fan of auto-ranging meters). 14 / 5.5 brings me to ~2.55A. Sound about right?
Thanks. Brad.




