Guys,

During the rebuild of our 496, it became necessary to replace the trim sender and limit switch, but it wasn't realized until I had already replaced the U-joint and shifter bellows. This made it kinda tricky to get to the horseshoe clamp that holds the two "half-corks" that seal around the wires through the transom assembly. Since the rebuild and reinstall of the engine, I've been trying (in vain) to hunt down an apparent raw water leak somewhere on the engine, but it now appears we have a leak past these wire seals, and not a raw water leak, as I can see water trickling down the transom below the transom plate when the boat is in the water. It's not a huge issue, as it's slow enough the bilge pump can easily keep up with it, but we obviously want to get this resolved. Unfortunately, while I can pull the drive and get at it myself, the boat is at the house on Cumberland and the forklift I have access to, that we've been using to pull/install the drive, is in Dayton. Anybody ever had any luck or found a way to get to this bolt to reseat these seals without pulling the drive?

Thanks. Brad.

Forklift?
Only necessary with #6 drives...

William,

I would agree it’s pretty easy for two guys to pull a drive, but I can’t imagine putting it back on. I’m not saying it can’t be done, I just don’t wanna….

I have secured the use of a drive jack and a service bay for a couple hours at Lookout Marine in Somerset. We’ll see how it goes.

Thanks.

Forklift?
Only necessary with #6 drives...

I have done a bravo 3 by myself on and off, definitely not fun. Worst case I would buy some 2x4's and build a stand for the drive at the close to the same height as the boat

Long quarter inch extension with a chrome swivel 7/16 socket, been there done that numerous times

Bonus points if you use castor wheels.

Not sure if this applies to you but I had the same maddning "trickling down the transom below the transom plate" for a year or two with my 496 mag/Bravo. Turned out to be leak around the exhaust block off plate sealant right near where those sender wires come through and required pulling of the engine to fix.

Nighthawk,

Let's hope not. I know I did the block-off plate correctly. Fresh O-ring, lots of oil-resistant silicone, pressed in place, finger tight bolts, let it sit for 24-48hrs, then tightened down. Since discovering the leak, I have done a nice bead of silicone along the mating corner inside the outer exhaust passage of the transom assembly and let that sit over the last week. The trim wire situation was an a-ha moment while doing the exhaust silicone bit, and I've chewed on it all week. Like I said, Lookout Marine is going to allow me to use their drive jack and a service bay to do the work (they are down service guys, so, despite having a ton of work, the space and jack are available). I'm going to reseat the seals, by hook or by crook, put it in the water and have a look with a bore scope to see if any more water is coming in. I'll reassess if there is.

Thanks. Brad.

BoatNT,

I'll have another look at it when I get there. It's hard to imagine getting anything on it as is. Drive all the way up/down? Left/right?

Thanks. Brad.