I am curious, does any company sell unrigged hulls without power? Say a twin inboard 32-40 foot hull? Preferably all composite and rot resistant. And in a price range that a middle class type of folks could obtain. I thought I saw a company doing this for outboards awhile back, I would be looking for a I/O in order to use what we currently have for power and knowledge to work on them.

I ask this because it seems like the biggest problem with performance boats is water intrusion. Rotted transoms/stringers/bulk heads or moisture in the coring. I cannot tell you how often this has come up among the folks I boat with. It seems like even when we think we have a rock solid hull, something always shows up somewhere. My friend group is constantly buying/selling/flipping/parting boats, we have dumped more rotten hulls than I can count at this point. Certain brands are certainly far more common for this, but that is another subject. I am actually starting to believe that no boat is 100% dry, I have heard stories of boats having moisture in them the day the roll out of the manufacturer.

We are mostly self sufficient and do all of our own work on engines, drives, rot repairs... We often time rerig boats to our liking with our power, so it would be nothing new to rig a new hull with the stuff we have on hand.

The problem with selling a hull and letting someone rig it at home it the company's name can be tarnished after that boat is sold off later if it was hacked together. If i make a deal with brand-X boats to buy a hull and take it home and rig it and it performs like crap and i get frustrated and sell it off...the next guy doesn't know any history about it and thinks its a factory rigged boat...then he gets all pissed off about the work done and starts posting all over the net how bad these boats are made....not worth it for the company.
Though i have thought why not have the hull VIN numbers completely different from factory production boats so everyone would know that it was a DIY boat....

That is an interesting perspective. In the case I am thinking, most of us are running what I would call old school power, say a pair of carbed 540s/bravos. Most new boats have a totally different level of power with modern engines, smart craft and similar. If a buy thinks he is getting a hull that has 2000 era power in a 2025 hull, they are the idiot, but I see your point. The same could be argued that selling a bare hull takes away a large amount of liability being that the rigging is usually the area that warrantees would apply the most.

You may be better off rebuilding the hulls you are throwing away. Transom/ Stringers really are not that big of a deal. I have a buddy that does it on almost every boat he has.

HE has went much further, cutting down the sides, etc.

Pat, from Active Thunder has done this in the past. He may consider it again. You would have to reach out directly.

I believe Skater will

We have done transoms and stringers in anything worth saving. Our biggest problem lately is is coring. My buddy for example has a baja 38 special that has a totally soggy balsa core and likely needs the transom and stringers also. How much time and money do you throw at a boat that does not have a resale to justify that? Sure build it and keep it forever sounds great, until you have a total loss on a insurance claim and they will not even pay what you had into rebuilding the hull. The older I get, the more I realize that time is worth more than money, I do not want to spend 2 years rebuilding a hull. Buying used hulls is a crap shoot, most folks are not going to let you drill core samples which I would say is the best method to really know what you are getting. We have had boats with surveys done in the past that still had issues.

I can understand the coring issue, just had a friend go through that with a Skater..

The issue I see is cost, another friend asked Cig how much a blank 20 hull would be and they said 150K. I guess it depends on much much you can get a blank hull for. May also ask Scott at Velocity, he may do something like that.

I hear ya there, if the price on a hull is that high on a 20, a 32-40 is out of the equation for most average upper middle class folks. Maybe I need to switch my researching to who makes an all composite hull that is built not to have these problems that we are running into rather than buying a new hull.

Pulling out a mold that hasn’t been used in years and taking people off of working on way more expensive boats isn’t going to be a fair price comparison to buying a hull from a manufacturer that is currently building them every day.