Bent bow rail
02-19-2003 | 11:33 AM
#1
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Joined: Feb 2002
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From: Traverse City, Michigan
Bent bow rail
I had a bow rail dock incident last season and the rail lost. End result is the rail is bent down and inward slightly.
This is a stainless rail. Can t be worked back into the correct shape using clamps and wood bocks , or heated and formed /
Suggestions
ed
This is a stainless rail. Can t be worked back into the correct shape using clamps and wood bocks , or heated and formed /
Suggestions
ed
02-19-2003 | 03:51 PM
#4
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From: Traverse City, Michigan
This was my plan.
Remove one piece welded railing from boat ( 32' sportfish Fountain) This rail is huge compared to the typical low profile rail used on most Fountains.
Take two pieces of oak and router each one with the radius of the rail.
Clamp the two pieces of wood to the rail using many C-clamps and attempt to gradully tighten the clamps and pull the rail back into shape.
ed
Remove one piece welded railing from boat ( 32' sportfish Fountain) This rail is huge compared to the typical low profile rail used on most Fountains.
Take two pieces of oak and router each one with the radius of the rail.
Clamp the two pieces of wood to the rail using many C-clamps and attempt to gradully tighten the clamps and pull the rail back into shape.
ed
02-19-2003 | 05:05 PM
#5
Ginger or Mary Ann?
Joined: Oct 2000
Posts: 11,030
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From: L
My guess is that the rails will take alot of force to bend back. Not sure if c-clamps will be enough. Can always have a muffler shop tap it a bit in their pipe bender, or support it a bit away from the bent area and place a hyd bottle jack at the bad spot and place under something that ain't going move, like the trailer and slowly bend it back. Baby steps!
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02-19-2003 | 05:08 PM
#6
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From: tn
You'll have to OVERbend it to get it to spring back to where you want it. Heat will indeed help.
I like your idea and I think a combination of clamping and heating will get you there.
Heat the tube pretty warm (not anywhere close to red, just hot - 250 to 300 degrees), then clamp it tight. Let it cool slowly. Repeat. What you are doing is gradually letting it heat-cycle and keep it from kinking - if you go too far at once, then it will probably kink). The heat-cycling lets the metal move and realign each time and it keeps it from work-hardening.
I know guys who could straighten it in one swoop with a torch and a set of mandrels, but they are experts at flame straightening - I can usually get there if you give me enough tries.
(remember - too much at once will cause wrinkling or cracking).
I like your idea and I think a combination of clamping and heating will get you there.
Heat the tube pretty warm (not anywhere close to red, just hot - 250 to 300 degrees), then clamp it tight. Let it cool slowly. Repeat. What you are doing is gradually letting it heat-cycle and keep it from kinking - if you go too far at once, then it will probably kink). The heat-cycling lets the metal move and realign each time and it keeps it from work-hardening.
I know guys who could straighten it in one swoop with a torch and a set of mandrels, but they are experts at flame straightening - I can usually get there if you give me enough tries.
(remember - too much at once will cause wrinkling or cracking).
02-20-2003 | 10:09 AM
#8
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From: ST. Louis, MO, USA
Yep, you'll have to overbend it. It will spring back if you just use a jig. A hydraulic pipe bender works well if you have a couple sharp bends that were put into it from the collision. A long arc is very hard to restore.
Gary
Gary
