any electrical whizzes out there?
#1
To me this is a somewhat baffling problem. My bilge pump is not getting power along with cabin lights, cockpit lights, eng. room lights, nav. lights, dash lights,and stereo. Every thing else seems to have power. Bilge blower works, all gauges work, trim tabs and drive trim work. Electric fuel pumps work and motors will run. Engine room has circuit breaker board and no breakers were popped. Any clues? Thanks in advance for any ideas.
Mark
Mark
#2
Check power on both ends of the circuit breaker w/a test light. Also there should be a fuse panel I would imagine somewhere. If so, again, check power on both ends of fuses.Sometimes the terminals do not have good contact both at the fuse's and circuit breaker.
#3
If you have circuit breakers I doubt you'll have fuses too.
Like cig1988 said, start by checking for power into and out of the circuit breaker with a test light or multimeter. If there's no power to the breaker start tracing backward towards the battery for the fault.
Just because a breaker isn't popped, doesn't mean it's working. I have a couple on mine that are bad but not popped.
Like cig1988 said, start by checking for power into and out of the circuit breaker with a test light or multimeter. If there's no power to the breaker start tracing backward towards the battery for the fault.
Just because a breaker isn't popped, doesn't mean it's working. I have a couple on mine that are bad but not popped.
#4
First thing I would do is grab a test light and see if you have power and ground on the thing. If you do then we go from there. If you do not connect a test light from the battery ground to the pos on one of the bad devices. Then from possitive on the battery to the ground side of the stuff that does not work. That will help figure out if you have bad grounds or power
My money is on a ground. Did you take your battery's out and forget to put on a wire?
Jon
My money is on a ground. Did you take your battery's out and forget to put on a wire?
Jon
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#5
Are they truly getting "no power" to the positive side of the components or is it that they don't work? A bad ground circuit could give the same result. In either case the circuit is open before all the various components break off from the main "feed".
Here's what I would do:
First, with a test light test at one of the failed componets for a good positive supply of power (Don't forget to turn on any dash switch) and for a good ground. Either the positive or negative circuit will be bad. You've just cut the work in half so concentrate only on the failed side of the circuit.
Now trace the failed side of the circuit back from the component, testing with the light until you get a good circuit (light turns on). When you do, you are in front of the failure and can trace back toward the component to find the failure. You may find a hidden fuse , bare/broken wire, or a loose connection.
If it is a fuse, a short could have caused the failure and blown the fuse. Be sure to look for a bare or broken wire that caused the fuse to blow. Replace the fuse and try moving the wiring harness around. It may blow the fuse when you move the "bad" area of the harness and help you locate the shorted wire.
If you don't find anything that caused the fuse to blow, it is possible that the amp draw of all items running at once was too much for the fuse. Be careful putting in a bigger fuse. Just don't operate everything at the same time. Did you install a new bigger stereo recently?
Whew! Sorry for the long-winded thesis, but I hope it helps!
Jeff
Here's what I would do:
First, with a test light test at one of the failed componets for a good positive supply of power (Don't forget to turn on any dash switch) and for a good ground. Either the positive or negative circuit will be bad. You've just cut the work in half so concentrate only on the failed side of the circuit.
Now trace the failed side of the circuit back from the component, testing with the light until you get a good circuit (light turns on). When you do, you are in front of the failure and can trace back toward the component to find the failure. You may find a hidden fuse , bare/broken wire, or a loose connection.
If it is a fuse, a short could have caused the failure and blown the fuse. Be sure to look for a bare or broken wire that caused the fuse to blow. Replace the fuse and try moving the wiring harness around. It may blow the fuse when you move the "bad" area of the harness and help you locate the shorted wire.
If you don't find anything that caused the fuse to blow, it is possible that the amp draw of all items running at once was too much for the fuse. Be careful putting in a bigger fuse. Just don't operate everything at the same time. Did you install a new bigger stereo recently?
Whew! Sorry for the long-winded thesis, but I hope it helps!
Jeff
Last edited by jbrauer; 04-17-2003 at 06:48 AM.
#7
I have a question for ya.......are the acc you mentioned not working from the switch? or just plain not working period? I had some issues on my scarab in the past with the supply terminals coming off the back of the switch. The switch woudl still light up as if the acc is on but nothing worked....
Had to remove the dash panel and crimp the terminals a bit tighter so they wouldnt come off.....
Had to remove the dash panel and crimp the terminals a bit tighter so they wouldnt come off.....
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Money can't buy happiness, but it can buy horsepower. And I've never seen a sad person hauling a$$!
-Wally
Money can't buy happiness, but it can buy horsepower. And I've never seen a sad person hauling a$$!
#8
I had the same type of Scarab problem. Ended up there is a single ground wire going to the dash panel. Wasn't making a good connection. ran a new wire and everything worked again.
(Also it was intermittant, some days they worked, some they didn't)
(Also it was intermittant, some days they worked, some they didn't)





