Unfortunately it appears to be bearing material (468cid). Two weekends ago I got a little rammy and my oil temps reached 280 or so with 30wgt dino oil. Was running the 30wgt because oil pressures where too high... 80+psi cold and 70 or so hot (w/30wgt worse before). Last year the pressures in this engine where 60-70spi hot at cruise rpm, 30-40psi hot in drive idling. Over the winter I changed oil pump, cam/lifters, and cam bearings (found to be flaking). Had much higher oil pressures this year.

After my excessive oil temp romp my oil pressures at idle were 10psi ad running above 2k rpm 50psi. Have run the last two weekends like that and no change. Have cut the last two oil filters open and the second has more gold than the first and larger flakes. Engine is running like a banshee and oil temps are better now (215 cruise vs 230 cruise with no knocking). Boat is now in the driveway to start pulling this engine. Any suggestions on what to look for. Hoping to re-shell bottom end, flush lub system and make the season. Am I pissing in the wind with that idea?

BT

BT,

Sorry to hear about your troubles.. But, I think that you will have to wait until you inspect the parts before making any judgements on a repair. I think your repair will hinge on the condition of the crank journals.

Thanks for the reply Checkmate. Do you find it odd that I was able to run 2 more weekends with no additional deterioration in oil pressure and no knocking? In fact the engine is running better than ever. I am thinking the cam bearings were too tight, but like you said, I won't know until tear down.

Is there any way to clear the metal from the oil passages without a total rebuild? Would like to make the season, then work at total rebuild of both engines containing forged assemblies. I am thinking heavy use of an oil priming tool and several oil/oil filter changes after re-shelling.

BT

I have never tried to do what you are thinking of. I cant see how you could get ALL the particles out without a total teardown. But if you have been an auto mechanic for as long as I have, you were bound to run into a situation where you were forced to do a quick repair on an engine that just spun a bearing. I can tell you that I have taken apart rod bearings, polished the crank with emery, measured the clearance, and dropped in .001 over bearings and sent the car out. Now I am not saying it is right, but it worked. Although I can't say how long it lasted.

That's what I am thinking of trying Checkmate. There is no spun bearing, just flaking. If it is a cam bearing, which it probably is because of the lack of knocking, I will probably need to totally dissassemble.

Thanks again for the input, support is nice at time like these,

Dave

Are you truely seeing "gold" colored flakes?
If so that means the bearings are worn past the top tin surface and into the copper layer.
Sounds like you've got your hands full with this one.

Yup, definately the copper base material I am seeing. Didn't detect the babbit looking material at all. Odd it was not knocking don't you think if the bearing is wore to the base material? Makes me think cam bearing.

BT