I pulled my Alpha off my boat and am getting ready to repaint it. The drive is still together with prop on. I plan on taking the prop off. What is the best way to strip the paint and prime the service. I have a handheld angle sander/grinder I figure to use to help strip the paint....This probally will be a lengthly process as my schedule is pretty full for the next coulple of months.....What does everybody reccomened.

Bad-Habit

Bad-Habit the best way is to sand-blast it with a medium grit sand, this will 1 remove all the paint and any corrosion, and 2 will give a good surface for the new paint to hold on to.

I also sand blasted by drives with silica sand, verrrrrrrry messssssy job.suit up.

I would disassemble the entire drive first.Then sand blast the housings. Then I would re-fit the bearing carrier so your not pounding on it after the case is painted. Also while its apart you can replace worn parts. It would suck to paint the drive and then find out you have worn out parts after.

In the same boat, kinda. Decided to repair my skegs that have been filed a couple times from hits. One thing lead to another, next thing I know I'm cutting off the old skegs, welding on new ones. I tried paint strippers and then sanding. Stripper didn't work and sanding was going to take for ever. Then I just decided to take them apart because not sure if the heat from the welding did any harm to the seals and just take them to work and glass bead them. While they are apart, decided to replace all the bearings, seals. Next thing you know, I am making all the tools to reassemble. BTW, just doing the lowers. What started off as a couple of $$ repair is now over $600. But at least they will be as good as new.

Well....Tearing the drive apart is out of the question this time....I don't have the tools or the money Sandblasting is also probally out also. Taking the drive to someone else to sandblast is possible if the cost is not to much. Im probally stuck using my handheld grinder/sander....So with my limits having me use the sander any thoughts on that process will really help.

Randy
a.k.a. Bad-Habit

I saw a pretty good article at Mercstuff.com about painting an outdrive. Check it out.

That's the procedure and supply list that I am going by. Figured if the paint was undestructable before, I want it undestructable again. Paint is PPG. Be prepared for the $160 for the alum cleaner, conditioner, primer and paint.

Not going thru all the work I have done just to have a cheap paint job fade or peel after a few dunkings that I always got with the Merc spray cans for touch on a couple of boats ago.

Sanding can done. The large open areas will be easy, it's the smaller confined places above the cavitation plate that a sander will not work. Even the triangle shaped profiling sanders can only reach so much. But if the budget means sanding, it'll just take time.

A friend had both of his complete drives blasted and painted last yr. Still looking great. Just have to tape, double tape, triple tape everything you do not want blasted. Same with sealing. Sand will find it's way across the lake. Blasting is actually pretty cheap, just have to make sure they use the right abrasive.

Ever heard of a needle scaler. Originally used to remove weld slag and heavy rust, this pneumatic device that has apx 27 1/8" rods that clean the surface. I've used mine on all kinds of things from blocks to drives. You have to be careful not to pean the aluminum too much. You can get an attachment for apx. $25 to fit on an air chissel , or the whole unit for apx $50 WWW.HARBORFREIGHT.COM Also after stripping use a good cleaner such as precleano, pre paint cleaner. Zinc chromate primer it . Never paint a drive with bottom paint containing copper, it will accelerate electrolysis. BBB

Bad Habit,
All the ideas you've gotten are god, my two cents is this; I just did my TRS's that were used as zincs by the previous owner and the sand blasting is the best way, you can buy a hand held sand blaster that gravity feeds for about 50.00. But if no air, no space, no media, NO BLASTING> GO EASY with a lite to medium grit paper...do as much as you can with your hand held, then scrape as much of the hard to reach stuff as you can, and then hand sand. One thing to keep firmly in mind...good paint on the drives is the best base!! If its only dirty and faded, sand it down for grip, feather the edges so they blend into sanded raw areas, ZINC CHROMATE the raw areas, then use a good sealing type primer(high fill) shoot a good coat, sand down with 180grit, do another coat and sand smooth with 500. Then your ready to paint. The high fill primer will fill any unseen scratches or imperfections and give you a better finish. If you have any electrolosis or nicks and dents, ALL METAL filler works awesome, is easy to sand and fair, is as tough as nails. All of this stuff and some little tricks of my own and my drives litterally look brand new. Good luck and remember, just because somthing might cost more or take longer to do, DO IT ANYWAY!!! Your the one who will look afterwards and be pissed if its not as you wanted it.