Now that I have your attention here's my question.

I got a dynamite deal on two pair of Canfield large oval port raised runner aluminum heads(brand new).Somebody out there makes and aluminum "marine" head with some type of coating to help resist corrosion.
Question is , who or what is the coating and can I do it or get it done somewhere???
I'm rarely in salt and when I am I always floss...I mean flush .My aluminum intakes have been powdercoated...including the water passages but I really don't think that would be practical because of heat tranfer or even possible due to the intricity of the waterjacket.
Having seen first hand what salt can do to aluminum , I really don't want to leave them naked

Canfield and Edelbrock have them hard anodized. You are looking around $300 a set.

Chris

A marine mechanic I know around here said he had aluminum heads on his boat, ran in salt for either 8 or 9 years, then sold them. I reckon they will last.

Didn't MerCruiser make a block that was Aluminum in the mid 80s? I think it was called the 470 and it was a 180-HP 3.7 liter 4-cyl. Now if memory serves me correctly (and it doesn't always) I believe they had closed cooling systems but some may not have. I wonder if anything special was done to this block to resist corrosion? I think I recall that on this engine the block was aluminum and the head was iron.

Roby

Those MerCrusier 470's and 490's were all supplied with a closed cooling system. No seawater to the Au. And most all manufacturers of marine aluminum heads offer them with a hard anodize option for saltwater. Don't know about getting them anodized after the fact though. Let us know if you find out if someone does it. Thanks! --- jp

Yes , I'll keep up my search locally first , then go national if necessary
I would feel better with some type of protection although in my situation it probably isn't imperative.

I have no experience with aluminum heads on a marine engine, however I would like to throw one other thought/concern out there...
Aluminum and cast iron expand and contract at vary different rates. Raw water cooled engines temperatures vary tremendously while running. I would think that the extra $600-$800 for a closed cooling system would be well worth it. Maintaining a more constant temperature could save head gaskets.

That's a good thought Pat, but the alum. head sits on the iron block square. (90 deg. cuts on both) The major problem with the different expansion characteristics of the dissimilar materials is where the intake manifold joins the head. If you have a cast iron intake, and a cast iron head, and cast iron block, all is fine. But most performance intake manifolds are aluminun and the surfaces join the head at an angle that requires some sliding at the joint with expansion. (NOT 90 deg.) So things will all stay sealed better if the head is the same material (and expansion rate) as the intake manifold. --- jp

jpclear,
Though a connection of mine I found I can get my heads done for $100 each.
I guess it's worth if for the peice of mind

MOP; thanks for that reply. If I have to tear-down or plan a saltwater trip I'll be in touch for the contact! I could have gotten my Canfield's done for $300 at time of purchase but they recommended that I save the money unless I was running salt, cause should the head need repair, anodize makes them a bugger to weld properly --- jp