Made the decision to pull the motors, gel the engine compartment and re-rig. With the new CMIs I can remove the Y pipes. Well, of course the bottom bolts are frozen and the heads stripped. OK, so I figure I'll drill them out. 3 come out no problem, the 4th is another story. It was so corroded and would not budge and kept breaking. My final attempt and the bit breaks in the hole and I see no way to get it out. On top of that the hole is now stripped of threads.

So now I need a another way to seal the exhaust hole. Any Ideas???

Here is a pic of the broken bit.

If a piece of drill or easy-out is broken off, I'd try to use heat and a punch to try and get it out. If it won't come out, a carbide drill will sometimes work to clean it out. You can get them at a tool and die supply store.

OK, I got it out!! Thanks Patriyacht . It ain't pretty, but it's out. Now I'll have to tap the hole and hope it holds.

would a heli coil work better?

Hmmm.... explain the diff. between tapping and heli-coil, thanks

you can keep the same thread size if you use heli coil but someone with more experience with them would be better qualified to answer your questions.
if your threads are strpped you will have to drill them out and go to the next larger size thread.

Go to an industrial supply store and buy a "thread repair kit" it comes with a drill bit ( or tells you which size to use )... a weird sized tap and some heli-coils... which are tungsten hardened steel threads.. They screw into the new oversized threaded hole and restore the hole to original thread size.. This is not a "bullsh!t" repair.. Aircraft and alloy engine builders install these coils into aluminum castings when new. The kit is usually about 20 bucks.

Besides... God doesn't hate you.... YOU JUST MADE A PACT WITH SATAN WHEN YOU USED THAT "EASY- OUT".................

Salt water IS THE DEVIL !!!!!!!!!!!!

L.S.

After you install the heli-coil, use A.R.P. stainless bolts with never seize when you bolt it together again.
Good Luck