replacing rub rail ?
#2
#3
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#5
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heres another pic of a seam that has pulled away slightly which again makes me think the countersink holes come already cut???
ive considered stainless also but i dont want to change the look of my boat.
with all the different colors and an all white deck it probably wouldnt look good but it looks great on most boats and holds up forever.
thanks for the links guys. ill give them a call and fax a drawing to them.
ive considered stainless also but i dont want to change the look of my boat.
with all the different colors and an all white deck it probably wouldnt look good but it looks great on most boats and holds up forever.
thanks for the links guys. ill give them a call and fax a drawing to them.
#6
I doubt you will want, or be able to use the exsisting holes, unless they are all through bolted. When i replaced mine a lot of the screws were striped out. I filled all the old holes, and drilled all new ones.
#8
I do enough rubrails on the boats we build, and we use Taco. Granted, the holes are pre drilled and countersunk. But..... they don't always align up when you have to replace a section.
#10
Steve, I just replaced the rubrail on one side of the Pantera. I got the rail with the boat when I bought it. It was TACO brand and the holes were predrilled and countersunk. It was the same as what I had on the boat, except the spacing on the holes was 1/4" farther apart. The old holes would have worked fine, but I didn't have much choice and had to redrill. Just drilled the holes as I was screwing it on. It was a pain in the a$$. That rail is way stiff and not at all easy to bend. I'm sure it didn't help that mine had been coiled for several years.




