I have some screws that go into fiberglass that are on the verge of stripping out OR are already stripped.
Can't go with a larger screw.

What can I use to fill the hole and re-drill so the screw will grab again?

BTW: I really don't want to get into re-fiberglassing the area if I can avoid it.

Thanks

Marine Tex is supposed to be drill and tapable. Never used it for that, but as a filler it is the cats meow

I have seen guys take toothpicks and glue them into the opening as a filler to tighen it up.

I would use slivers of wolmanized wood.

use west systems epoxy. coat a tapered piece of wood with it a tap it into hole, then break off protruding piece and fill hole to top with epoxy. let it harden, then sand flush, and redrill and yer all set. should last for ever. west systems makes an awsome product. the slower the cure the better it will last. ratman

Bill,
Alot certainly depends upon what is being fastened down and whether it is structural or decroative in nature. As mentioned I have inserted tooth picks in holes to help hold a screw, works well, but not something for a structural repair. You could add some glue to the toothpicks and it would help. For a really strong fix, mix up some resin like for fiberglass work and to make it so it doesn't drip off on you, mix in a little sawdust and thicken as needed. Insert the toothpicks coated with your mixture and let cure. I guarantee a solid tight fix. Any you shouldn't have to do any repair to the outer surface. Hope this helps.
John
www.sunriseuph.com

Here's a quickie that works great if you can get to the backside of the repaired area (also works if it is in an area that is backed up with foam).

Drill the hole out 2 sizes larger. Spin the drill backwards till you are thru the gel so it won't crack a big chunk out. Duct tape a "bowl" to the far side of the repair (or if it is foam backed, chuck up a smallish allen wrench in the drill and stick it in the hole spinning to eat out some foam to make a pocket - vacuum/blow out the loose foam). Then fill with marinetex. Re-drill and put your screw in.

I've done the above with the Boston Whaler. Everything on it is foam backed and this works great to make permanent repairs. Much stronger than the original.

Marine Tex works great..

Take some fiberglass mat a cut small peace, roll it to hole size dip in resin shove it back in stripped hole. Let cure re-drill done.

If you have access to the back side, your best bet would be to just thru-bolt it. Screwing is the worst way to go. Thru-bolt everything you can.

Depending on how bad the screw is stripped out, I have just mixed up some resin, and dipped the screw in it, and put the screw back in. If under load, use a clamp or something to keep it from moving. After 24 hours or so, the resin is hard, and can be unscrewed if needed. I'm no glass expert , but this simple fix has worked great for me a few times.