Just received the FloScan meter. I will be installing it myself and was wondering if anyone else has done it before. It looks pretty straight forward.

they have great install stuff on thier website. Their dealer in Virginia is really good as well--you can get his name and phone from the Floscan site.

Their manual is pretty detailed. I was just wanting to know if someone out there installed one and found some certain things that you would only know after you've done one. (Placement of meters, clamps vs. fittings, etc) ALso noticed that I should install a RESET switch which it didn't come with.

The install instructions with the units are very accurate.

I ran a lead right from one battery for the totalizer so no issues with turning batt switches off wiping out my total. Maybe hide a toggle for reset in that lead somewhere behind the under-dash door? That would be clean and not get reset by accident.

Gonna put it in the speedo hole?

They are friendly with tech if you need to call 'em at any point.

I double clamped every fuel connection of course.

I used scotchlocks swabbed in liquid electrical tape for wiring connections. Fast, easy, don't come apart like buttsplices. Secured and jacketed everywhere. No worries as there are only milliamps in the wiring. I don't believe TeamV has had any issues yet, and my last install in that boat is now 8 years and ~10,000 gals old!

Just rip into it...it get more self explanatory as you go. It's really pretty sraight-forward.

It'll take a couple of tanks to get the cal right. Use those micro-switches on the back of the meter head, that's what there for. Don't be satisfied with 3-5% when you can get damn near 1-1.5% accuracy as I did. Go for 1-2% OVER not under for a small (very) safety margin.
Good Luck.
Randy

yes, you need a SPST to momentarily kill 12V to the totalizer to reset it.

Thanks Rippem. They sent butt splices and heat shrink. In my business we use gel filled scotch locks. I may use those instead. Good idea Rippem. I'll do the tape dip too. I looked in the engine compartment for the fuel hose splice location, and I can clearly see where the fuel line comes up from underneath (I assume at this time after the tank filter) and goes into the low pressure side of the fuel pump. Looks like an easy splice location for the flow sensors. Just need to find the ideal spot to locate the sensors to accomplish the correct rise and keep it out of the way. Looks like I also need to pick up (4) threaded-Barb fittings and (8) clamps. I am going to mount it where the speedo was. Hopefully the existing sppedo hardware will allow me to remount the new gauge. Good idea for the switch. (Behind the dash) Are the "Power On" terminals on the port and starboard ignition switches easily identifiable? I didn't look at that yet. Thanks for the help.

heck .. thats no problem ...my batteries go dead about once a month .....that should reset things .....

That's not good!!

Here's a picture of the gauge in the dash and the modules in the engine compartment...Almost done!!!

FloScan ...the real deal in fuel monitoring.

Looks good man.

I would consider the B&G network also, but you gotta have 2 displays to have both engines GPH displayed simultaneously.

The electronic means are built into these new SmartCraft ECM's and no calibration is neccessary. If I want to read both GPH's realtime/same time under way, FloScan is the only way to go!