Finally Started Rigging My 32 Skater
 

My twin 375 Hp EFI strokers engines arrived from STR ( Shaun Torrente Racing ) along with sportmasters lowers . Hard to believe 90 % of the propulsion for my 32 Skater is in this little box when you really think about it . What I'm trying to say is Outboard power to what it takes to rig a twin BB Skater . I'm in mock-up right now to determine best area for rigging tube and have worked out a way to run hyd lines for offshore ram in the rigging tube opposed to having pair if through hull fitting .

Larry

Looks great, real interested to see how it all works out in the end.
Can you tell me about the outboards from STR, what did they start out as, mods, cost etc?

Awesome !

Keep the pics comin' Larry

can't wait to see the heads installed and the lowers

I have no money so one 225 3 litre and 250 3 litre efi , sent them to Shaun and he ported , 300x intake and injectors , remap ecu and installed new mercury stoker 300xs 3.2 litre crank . Shaun is a really good guy , races for Mercury F-1 and did what he promised with no drama . As far as price you will have to call him .

Larry

How about the naca ducts in the side of the cowlings?

This week hopefully , the last two weeks been busy doing upgrades on 95 Dodge cummins , as of today 500 hp 1000 ft p. I'm afraid to do anymore mods because I hate when the coupler pulls off the trailer !! Twin turbo next mod

Bought this truck on Cragslist for 1500

For $1500?! Was it a blown motor?

Nope , its a cummins 12 valabe and they go 500 k easy !! I'm telling the whole story , it looked like this , old man ugly , was 160 hp 300 ft p , now 500 hp , 1000 ft p, took entire truck apart painted it Viper red , 2008 dodge 17 rims , 325-70-17 Nitto tires , triple disc conv, hp valve body , bigger injectors , ARP head studs , 3200 GSK , # 10 fuel plate ,16 CM turbo ex housing , 5 in stainless turbo back , rear air bags with comp , true ram-air , I did all work myself including body and paint , I have a total 5 k in this truck and will pull 20 k if I ask it to

Nice job on the 12v, I have one also and love it!

Thanks !! What yr do you have ? I just got back from DMV . I'm going to install 2004 cab and bed on my chassis and I wanted to find out what legal issues I will have . They simply will go over it and give me a re-constucted tilte and I will still be exempt from insp because it is still a 95 Diesel underneathand there is no insp here in NJ for my truck

Your projects look amazing. Do you ever sleep?

Agreed!

Larry, your capacity to turn things into gold is boundless

Thanks guy's !!! To be honest I sleep till 9 every day but up till 2 am . Most progress is done when everyone leaves me alone and that is 10 pm on

looks like you changed the black moldings to sth taller?

And the side view mirrors got swapped out also, are they from a newer Dodge truck model?

Mine is a 97, good shape for the year, but the rockers and rear bubmper are just now starting to rot... pretty common on these trucks. All stock other than a K&N and sliding the plate forward. I want to say I have 135k on it, never any issues other than loosing an o-ring in the trans once which temperorarly caused it to lose OD. Other than that, just oil and filter changes and it's been 100% problem free. Great truck.

Updating to the new body style sounds trick, although I wonder what the resale value would be after putting all the work and money into it... unless you can get the donor 2004 for next to nothing.

I could care less about re-sale , I just want a more modern look , I fugure I could do it for around 1K - 2 K I just missed complete 2004 cab for 500 dollars . Yes the mirrors are from 2001 newer and are power, direct bolt on . At a min you need to install a torque conv lock-up switch as well as 3200 Governor spring kit . If you need any help let me know . I have 325-70-17 ( 37 inch tall ) and this truck will burn tire down the street

Here is what was done this week . Most know that I'm supper fussy about my rigging and this is the reason it takes my forever to complete . All outboards have rigging tubes and the Opti cowl has one oversize tube kit from mercury and with offshore clamp trim pump is in boat and every other boat . I have re-engineered the trim lines to be run in the rigging tube . All H-P outboards use wing-plates for steering and to do this the stock cowl pans have to be trimmed to install and 99% of the time everyone leaves area under plate exposed and unfinished . I made a one piece skirt from two halves of a lower 3 Litre pan that were carefully trimmed and glassed together and to install you just kind of spread the front in install . Most know of heads up or (pop up ) indicators from say Stainless marine , well I bought their sticks and made my own panel with clean screw-less bezel . Here is the big change , mine will operate with 1/16 stainless aircraft wire and Teflon jacket , that is the easy part . I'm in process of working out a few details on redesigning the outboard actuator that is large , unsightly and the use a 33 series cable that again is ugly and has its own entry hole . With my actuator it will be hidden , use a super this easy glide cable that can make super tight radii with impeding cable movement which will enable me to run Trim Actuator cable in rigging tube . I also new Mercury swivel pins and lower yoke and wanted much better corrosion protection on bolt other than Plated bolts supplied from Mercury . The lower solid mounts and yoke were over-sized to 5/8 armor coat grade 8 bolts and upper were upgraded to armor coat grade 8 as well .

more pics

I also wanted to clean up the Mercury offshore clamp and remove casting slag and bump out on top that is used when those stock tilt levers are swung out to keep in up position. First off those levers are ugly and cannot be used on most boats because the engine would have to be tilted up so far that the cowl would smash the motor well ( that is how I found pair Opti cowl cheap ) Part of my Mock-up was to determine the max-tilt for trim ram so alum limiter can be installed in ram to prevent over trimming and wiping out transom and or engine cowl . Any one who has these levers should check upper pin as I have found 9 out of 10 to be cracked in half because mercury drilled orig pin for locator and this is where they break in half . I make a lit that includes solid stainless upper pin as well as block off plates

more pics

This is just mock-up , soon all parts will be blasted , epoxy prime , straight up Black ureathane ( single stage for those not familar with paint ) but I also lay three coats of clear , this way the shine is a mile deep .

Larry

Larry, awesome!

Will you blast the aluminum parts till the aluminum shows? or will you blast the parts just enough to remove surface coat and oxidized surfaces for you to have a stable surface for the epoxy prime and urethane?

Larry,

To summarize, you will have/build the following:


* trim lines in rigging tube
* lower pans have been glassed together
* trim actuator cable in rigging tube
* aluminum limiter can be installed in ram
* kit that includes solid stainless upper pin as well as block off plates
* paint and clear kote the engine exterior



would luv to see these in future pics

Way too much work and it may never get done

Looks good Lar

Larry, any updates on this thread yet?

Selling it ! When are you going to buy a 32 ??

:eek::eek:

Is the 375 hp a dyno number ? looking good hf...

They are built by the best , Shaun Torrente ( Mercury F- 1 ) They are around 350 hp with stock Throttle body and 360 + with STR 4 inch TB

4 sale WTH?? he must just be kidding. I was around him Sat and he was all about the boat...silly rabbit...

I guess the dyno question is a NO .

Larry, did you replace the rear bumper or painted over the chrome?

Yes there were chrome but lightly blasted then epoxy primed , then surfacer then base / clear Viper red

Don't suppose you want to sell the Truck?