Outboard skater BS thread!
01-24-2018, 02:35 PM
#1041
Registered
iTrader: (1)
I've got 34 pitch three blades now so it's just hard to think about dropping that much pitch, granted I don't think the ones on the boat are the perfect fit but still. I'd also need to find a 3'rd of whatever I go with. Having trips I wonder if I'd have the power to spin the 32's?
If you ever go to 5 blades and you are happy with the RPM of what you have figure on 1" of pitch drop per additional blade to stay at the same RPM. The 28's really like the 4 blade's.
Platinum Member
02-12-2018, 01:30 PM
#1044
Registered
Who do you guys recommend to rebuild a set of 300X motors or is it straight forward enough to handle myself? I'm very capable in the shop but since I haven't done THESE motors didn't know if there were tricks to the trade that I'd miss or if "X" is able to massage them a little and keep reliability, I have three that I'd like to rebuild before summer.
I don't mind shipping them off but I'd rather do it as long as it's not a monumental job or there are a lot of tricks you need to know. I'd rather do it so I control the schedule and the parts that go in them but I also know it's hard to beat a man at his trade. If I do it myself where do you get all the parts necessary, I'm sure someone online offers them cheaper than the full retail that all the shops around here want to charge. I assume I'd be replacing pistons, rings, bearings, and gaskets but should rods be done as well or anything else I'm forgetting? Anyone got a ballpark on what I should be looking at total cost per motor, parts and labor and how much of that's labor?
Several of the reed cages have corners that are burnt (started impacting idle) so will be replacing those as well. Is it best to go back factory or does someone make a better part that doesn't have the rubber gasket that's so easy to damage?
TIA
I don't mind shipping them off but I'd rather do it as long as it's not a monumental job or there are a lot of tricks you need to know. I'd rather do it so I control the schedule and the parts that go in them but I also know it's hard to beat a man at his trade. If I do it myself where do you get all the parts necessary, I'm sure someone online offers them cheaper than the full retail that all the shops around here want to charge. I assume I'd be replacing pistons, rings, bearings, and gaskets but should rods be done as well or anything else I'm forgetting? Anyone got a ballpark on what I should be looking at total cost per motor, parts and labor and how much of that's labor?
Several of the reed cages have corners that are burnt (started impacting idle) so will be replacing those as well. Is it best to go back factory or does someone make a better part that doesn't have the rubber gasket that's so easy to damage?
TIA
02-12-2018, 02:12 PM
#1045
Registered
iTrader: (1)
MLB75,
I have rebuilt a set in the past and did all the work but the long block. I had a friend that is at TNT do that for me. We replaced everything but the rods. We did not have any damage on the cylinder walls so they just gave them a quick hone.
I have heard good things about Fullers in the NE. They have worked on a bunch of them. Not sure how many factory Mercury parts are available anymore. If you use the factory read cages they are very expensive.
We also changed one crankshaft too. I would recommend sending out all the injectors, rebuild and service fuel pumps, replace oil bleed lines, also check bleed valves, reeds, thermostats. You should also make sure they use new head bolts for proper torque. Mercury calls for new ones. Same with rod bolts. May also want to replace needle bearings.
How many hours on the motors? Regarding tweaks IMO I would leave them stock. Especially if you have the higher compression heads. Maybe a little clean up on the porting and balance the motor but that is it.
If you want to see I had build thread on here from my old boat with a bunch of pics.
I have rebuilt a set in the past and did all the work but the long block. I had a friend that is at TNT do that for me. We replaced everything but the rods. We did not have any damage on the cylinder walls so they just gave them a quick hone.
I have heard good things about Fullers in the NE. They have worked on a bunch of them. Not sure how many factory Mercury parts are available anymore. If you use the factory read cages they are very expensive.
We also changed one crankshaft too. I would recommend sending out all the injectors, rebuild and service fuel pumps, replace oil bleed lines, also check bleed valves, reeds, thermostats. You should also make sure they use new head bolts for proper torque. Mercury calls for new ones. Same with rod bolts. May also want to replace needle bearings.
How many hours on the motors? Regarding tweaks IMO I would leave them stock. Especially if you have the higher compression heads. Maybe a little clean up on the porting and balance the motor but that is it.
If you want to see I had build thread on here from my old boat with a bunch of pics.
02-12-2018, 06:07 PM
#1046
Registered
02-18-2018, 08:09 AM
#1048
Registered
NP, trailer is looking good!! Finally ran our tank yesterday for first time since you installed our filters and it ran great, thanks again. It was also the first time we ran it since Dale raised the motors 1/2" but didn't have the opportunity to let it rip, hot wife drove from Benicia to Oakland Estuary in dead flat water but she wasn't comfortable driving above 80ish. I drove back, after picking up some friends, but the water didn't cooperate plus we had a full boat. The water pressure at 85-90mph is now at 15-19psi. Absolutely LOVE our boat.
