Did you get the "standard" Skater ramps or did you go with deeper ramps?

Standard Skater ramps

Did you entertain deeper ramps with Pete?

I am lucky to get the boat back, I could never get anyone there to talk to me. Ron has a friend there is how I communicated, thru Ron. Impossible to get Mr. Peter to call back. Delt with Tony to pay my bill. If needed I can make them deeper.

David they are 4" wide and long and about 1/4" deep. I took those measurements of Tom Kennedy's old 24 when it was at TNT. The factory ones that were on my 28 were only about 1" wide 2" long and 1/8" or so deep.

We made my factory water ramps deeper by 1/8" while at Boat Customs and it cured my water pressure issues.

First pic, Toms 24 from his listing.

Second pic, Jim's from earlier in the thread.

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Yea, I get it! Met Pete at LOTO this summer. When I told him I had a 28, he walked away!:lolhit:

Ron, Please clarify on the size. I did not understand your answer. Thanks, David

4" Wide, 4" or from leading edge to transom and 1/4" deep.
Jim should be able to provide exact measurements now that his boat is back.

The deeper water ramp idea was bouncing around in my head for awile
I am glad I went that route, they worked great ! I am sure I will go that way on the 28 also

I will test it Saturday, if water pressure is an issue, I do have a file, some west systems epoxy, and paint.

I cut mine with 40 grit paper with sticky back on a 1" pvc pipe. Cut like butter.

Any idea how "thick" the hull is at the ramp area? Ron, your ramps are pretty deep!

Tom, What were the results of the deeper ramps, i.e., how much higher were you able to go with the cases and with what pressures?

Rainy, windy, cold, ran it anyway. Water pressure is now 23 psi up from the 12-14 I had. That is at 1 7/8" up. The ramps work very well. I will try it a little higher as I run 15" diameter Dewald.

I looked at mine thru the drain plug holes (fittings and bezels are out) I would guesstimate bottom thickness to be 3/4" @ the very back tapering down to 1/2" @ the front of the ramp.

My math says with the 1/4" to 0" ramp > 1/2" +/- left @ the rear and 1/2" +/- @ the front of the ramp. (appears to be solid glass, no core material in that area)

Thanks, Exactly what information I was needing! :ernaehrung004:

You could just drill some test holes:eek:

What size do you think are appropriate? :angry-smiley-038:

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I ran mine 102 miles Monday, water pressure was 10-13 before the small ramps, now it is 30 plus psi. We ran 46miles to the destination in 31 minutes, thru a lot of turns, then into a big lake. I raised the engines up more now for the next run on Saturday on the Suwannee river, with the Scream and Fly guys, the Spring Thaw. There is a lot of turns on the Suwannee River also.

Kirk, Are you seeing differential water pressures from port to starboard engines while in high speed turns (loosing water pressure)? I was getting temp. alarms while in sharp turns at my "skinny" lake. I added a water balancing hose connecting the engines thru the adaptor plates and now have very close to equal water pressure in both! Just wondering has you experience.

Curious how you ran the balancing hose, any pic's?

I drilled and tapped the Adaptor Plate with 1/2" NTP to JIC barbed fittings (-10) and ran the hose thru the rigging tubes to each engine. [ATTACH=CONFIG]551793[/ATTACH]

My X's are already plumbed for this balancing hose as the 32 had thru-hull pick-ups. I thought it was a good idea to keep them for pressure balancing but It was recommended to me by a pro that I should keep the two cooling systems isolated from one another.

I assume if you have the two exhaust adapter plates connected there must be a check valve (one way) in line somewhere on each motor, otherwise if one motor were running it would be dumping pressure in to the non running motor. But then a check valve would cancel out the ability for the two to balance.

I really like the balancing idea for obvious reasons, I guess someone just needs to explain how to make it all work.

FP, No check valve. I don't usually run on one motor unless I broke something, then it is "idle time". At idle and up to 1800RMP, I have had no pressure issues on one motor. That said, I can now make 80+ MPH turns w/o watching my temps climb and hearing that damn alarm! It was also suggested to me by a pro cat racer to add them. So I guess there are different opinions... imagine that! :bananalove:

OK so pro's con's on doing that and using a slosh tank fed from in hull pickups to feed all motors leaving the lowers alone vs tapping the lowers like DR did?

I'd really like to add hull pickups to mine so I can get the motors to where I know they ought to be but don't want to tap the lowers if I don't have to...

Chris
Check valve will not work. Water has to move both ways as it changes whether your turning right or left.

Interesting. Your diagram shows drilled and taped into the exit water side of the exhaust plate. Wouldn't you want it on the inlet water in the exhaust plate?
Just curious.

Good question! My speculation is that it is adding back pressure to the water jacket system to provide increased water pressure?? All I know is that it really works well. I thought about the physics of it and would add that it works just opposite the popit valve that relieves pressure at high RPM.

We ran the Scream and Fly Spring Thaw today. Suwannee River, 36 miles each way. LOTS of logs, sticks in the water. Height is at 2", pressure at 90 and up is 15-16 psi. Yes the inside engine psi falls off on the turns but I do not get any alarms, nor does the temp rise.

Passed a lot of Yamahahas and E tecs today