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UPDATE on '99 Prowler Purchase
Well, I'm happy with the purchase. The boat has some problems but nothing I can't fix. Boat ran pretty rich when I took it for the test drive but I expected that was due to bad gas. Got it home in MD and here is what I found.
Had a engine water leak but that was fixed by putting a o-ring on one of the engine drain plugs. Engine water pump showed signs of leaking so I replaced with a marine water pump. Power steering is stiff. Took the pin out that links the steering and the outdrive and cycled it back and forth. Seemed stiff. Saturated the upper and lower pivot pins with penetrating fluid and that seem to loosen it up. I greased the steering cables and that made it better. It is still a little stiff but, unlike my Scarab, I see you don't have to turn the wheel that much to go to the stops. Had to replace the fuel pressure regulator. That was fun! Put in 10 gallons of fresh gas and two cans of Seafoam and engine does not run rich anymore. Changed the motor oil and lower unit gear oil. Both needed it but no play at all in the prop shaft and no chips on the mag drain screw. Motor drain plug look fine with no metal fragments. Replaced drain plug with a Fumoto valve for future oil changes. Motor and outdrive look pristine for 11 years old. My biggest problem has been electrical. I found a lot of corroded splices (about 8) that I replaced and sealed. Had to replace the blade and glass fuse panels under the helm. Things started working a lot better. The battery charger in the engine comaprtment was a pile of corosion so I replaced with a waterproof dual battery 15 AMP unit. Had to replace the Sony radio but got a nice marine Sony from Cruchfield and that problem is partially solved. I have one speaker in the front and one in the back that work but all speakers are good. Got to run new speaker wire. Some switch actuators were broken and I'm sure some switches are tired so I ordered replacement switches and actuators from Wytek. Could not find white actuators with the red lenses so I got red actuators with red lenses. Replaced the important switches with the red actuators and it looks good. They really stand out. Wytek had the best prices on Carling Contour style switches that I could find. The frig, electric toilet and water system all work fine. Speaking of the toilet, where is the pump out connection located? The interior is very clean. I mean no bad upholstery and the headliner is in great condition. It all just needs a good surface cleaning. I'm replacing both engine hatch actuators. One works and the other does not. They are two different brands so I got two new ones. I installed Iridium plugs, MSD 8.5 wires, MSD GM replacement coil and an MSD ignition controller on the motor. Motor runs better and starts easier. Found a Mercruiser Scantool on EBay and am waiting for the weather to get better so I can look at the ECM and see what has really happened. It is a work in progress but by the time April rolls around it will be ready to go. What kind of fuel consumption will I see with the Sonic? I have a fuel flow gauge on my Scarab 22 and it burned about 24.5 gallons per hour at 50 MPH. If you have the time, any comments or advice would be appreciated. ED |
Congrats on the purchase. I have had my prowler for 1.5 yrs now and have put over 100hrs on it.
I would suggest replacing the manifold and risers with an upgrade stainless marine manifold or EMI. Just get away from the riser to manifold transfer of water through the gasket, gives you some performance as well. If you have a raw water flush system make sure it is all sealed up good and not letting sucking air in while running. I found this to be the cause of tearing up impellers running warmer that it should. Keep an eye on the mirror in the front of the bow, I found a ton of water behind it. Everyone has there opinion of how it gets in. I found mine to be leaking at the cleats, sealed them and have not had a probelm since. Keep damp rid in the cabin, so you avoid headliner issues. That is all I got, sure there is plenty more, but sounds like you have done all the stuff to get you ready for summer. |
Originally Posted by kwooley
(Post 3335075)
Congrats on the purchase. I have had my prowler for 1.5 yrs now and have put over 100hrs on it.
I would suggest replacing the manifold and risers with an upgrade stainless marine manifold or EMI. Just get away from the riser to manifold transfer of water through the gasket, gives you some performance as well. If you have a raw water flush system make sure it is all sealed up good and not letting sucking air in while running. I found this to be the cause of tearing up impellers running warmer that it should. Keep an eye on the mirror in the front of the bow, I found a ton of water behind it. Everyone has there opinion of how it gets in. I found mine to be leaking at the cleats, sealed them and have not had a probelm since. Keep damp rid in the cabin, so you avoid headliner issues. That is all I got, sure there is plenty more, but sounds like you have done all the stuff to get you ready for summer. I'll find out if the bow is full of water when I replace the speaker wires. I have the Hardin SS risers on my Scarab. I'm contemplating changing them over to the Prowler. Suppose to give about another 15 to 20 HP. The real difference I noticed on the Scarab was a lot better water flow out the exhaust. The head uses fresh water from the 20 gallon tank and I have a storage tank. Still looking for the pump out connection. What prop do you have? I have a Bravo 22p on mine. What would you recommend? Bought a Kinda Scan Tool of EBay. Hooked it up today. Says the motor has 345 hours. Hour meter on the dash says 475. Probably had a new ECM installed. Motor and outdrive look brand new. Am printing out the Kinda manual as I write this. Thanks again for the info Ed |
They hour meter counts anytime the key is on. The ecm only counts actual run time. My hour meters are about 100 hours high.
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As Kwooley stated they often collect water behind the mirror and speakers forward of the V-berth, mine leaked through the bow light. I ordered a new one and sealed it good with silicone, end of problem. Your head pump-out should be on the starboard walk-around near the fuel fill. Mine was a similar fitting to the fuel fill.
Steve |
Originally Posted by U4ICK
(Post 3335299)
kwooley.......thanks for the info.
I have the Hardin SS risers on my Scarab. I'm contemplating changing them over to the Prowler. Suppose to give about another 15 to 20 HP. The real difference I noticed on the Scarab was a lot better water flow out the exhaust. What prop do you have? I have a Bravo 22p on mine. What would you recommend? Ed Prop that is a long story....Had a 3 blade 23p when I bought it, did the rebuild on the engine and wanted 4 blade, so look on here and most were using 4 blade 24p, so found a cheap one to try. After rebuild put it on and could not get out of the hole, took it off and put the 23p back on, still could not get out of the hole....Asked friend helping me rebuild engine, you check timing right??? na I thought you did...set timing and probelm solved. never put the 4 blade back on but plan on trying it first of the season. I have a feeling im going to be looking for a 4b 22p. |
Originally Posted by kwooley
(Post 3335663)
If your seeing low water flow I would look at the raw water flush hose and connection, mine did the same thing. Im running 100% fresh water now so I just eliminated it, the result was more water flow.
Prop that is a long story....Had a 3 blade 23p when I bought it, did the rebuild on the engine and wanted 4 blade, so look on here and most were using 4 blade 24p, so found a cheap one to try. After rebuild put it on and could not get out of the hole, took it off and put the 23p back on, still could not get out of the hole....Asked friend helping me rebuild engine, you check timing right??? na I thought you did...set timing and probelm solved. never put the 4 blade back on but plan on trying it first of the season. I have a feeling im going to be looking for a 4b 22p. This was an interesting experiment. I have a 60 HP Evinrude E-Tech. Had a Solas 4B 17P SS on the motor before my son hit some rocks. Bought a Solas 4B 17P AL and what a difference. Hole shot was significantly better, I got more top end and RPM was higher. The only thing I can figure is the AL prop flexes slightly on the hole shot to reduce pitch then once on plane goes back to original pitch. Plus it is a lot lighter to turn and easier on the gear case. So I bought a Solas 4B 19P. It had the same performance as the original 4B 17P SS. Go figure! Just some food for thought. Ed |
Originally Posted by U4ICK
(Post 3335861)
My prop experience story.......My Scarab 22 came with a 3B 25P SS Mirage. Not the OEM size prop. Could not get out of the hole with more then 2 people in the boat. OEM prop was 3B 23P SS. Got a 3B 23P SS Stilleto and that was the best all around prop for hole shot and top end. That was the only prop that would let the motor turn 5K RPM. Right now I have a B1 24P SS and that is OK but does not have the top end the Stilleto has. Really lifts the Scarab bow. I also have a Stilleto 3B 25P SS but that did not perform as well as the B1 4B SS. I also bought a Solas Amita 4B 23P aluminum (AL) prop to try on the Sonic.
This was an interesting experiment. I have a 60 HP Evinrude E-Tech. Had a Solas 4B 17P SS on the motor before my son hit some rocks. Bought a Solas 4B 17P AL and what a difference. Hole shot was significantly better, I got more top end and RPM was higher. The only thing I can figure is the AL prop flexes slightly on the hole shot to reduce pitch then once on plane goes back to original pitch. Plus it is a lot lighter to turn and easier on the gear case. So I bought a Solas 4B 19P. It had the same performance as the original 4B 17P SS. Go figure! Just some food for thought. Ed |
Originally Posted by kwooley
(Post 3336463)
Im guessing the AL prop cost less?? Let me know how it goes might have to try that.
Ed |
I think you will find it doesn't work well under that load. I would expect you to snap an ear off after a bit of use.
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