Prowler Engine Hatch Actuator Problem Resolved
 

Being a new Prowler owner I'm not sure this is a new problem but it was new to me. My engine hatch would lift but only actuator would work. When I initially hit the switch, both would start but the port actuator would quit and the starboard actuator would lift the hatch. Pulled the port actuator out and when connected to a battery, it worked fine. So since one actuator had beenn replaced with a different brand I thought that was the problem. So I ordered two new actuators. Installed them and the same thing happened. So I replaced the dash switch and still no joy. When the light finally went on I knew the wire running from the switch to the actuators was too small and the voltage drop was killing me. I believe it is 2 conductor 18 gauge (16 amps max) wire. So I ran a piece of 2 conductor 12 gauge (41 amps max) wire from the switch to the starboard actuator and then connected the two actuators with a piece of 2 conductor 10 gauge (55 amps max) wire. Both actuators work great now. Runs up and down a lot faster on both battery and shore power.

Just thought I would pass this on in case other Sonic owners are having a similar issue.

OBTW - if you need a repalcement actuator let me know. My original two work fine.

Ed

I have been thinking of what to do on mine. I have the Hydaulic cylinders on mine and my motor is on it last leg. I was trying to decide weither to buy a bennett pump to replace on go with new actuators. Are you running on electric or Hydaulic? What are your old ones. You can help me figure out what to do.....

I assume you have one hydraulic motor feeding the two actuators.

Mine are electric. IMO, they are a cleaner installation and easier to troubleshoot. The AV 3012 are the replacements I got from this website:

http://www.boatownersworld.com/uflex...ch_lifters.htm

My old ones are an AV 3012 and some other brand. They both work. With that 18 gauge wire I new trying to get 20 to 25 amps through it when lifting the hatch was causing a big voltage drop causing the safety switch to cut power to the port actuator. They both operated when lowering.

I started to do the wire thing before I ordered the new actuators but now I have new stuff that works really well.

Hope this helps.

Ed

Yes I have the one pump powering both actuators. its just so slow it drives me crazy. I dont know if a new pump would be faster or if I just need to go to the ones like you. Cost wise it would be cheaper for me to get a new pump for $200 bucks and hope that it makes it just a bit faster. I have alot to do before summer and that is on my list. I hope to start tearing everything apart this weekend. new tabs, manifolds, risers, tips, batteries, a few switches, engine oil, drive oil, impeller, fuel water seperator, block off my raw water pump....dang I got alot to do.

The wiring going to the dash switch is also too small and causes a voltage drop. You can do a search for a similar problem with Powerquests which will give more info. One fix is to install a relay with a larger gauge wire, increased my speed by 35% on the stock actuator.
Steve

What I found was a green and yellow 18 gauge wire running from the dash switch to the starboard actuator then spliced with the same green and yellow 18 gauge wire to the port actuator. What was funny was the criss cross wires on the back of the switch that reverse polarity are 12 guage. Makes no sense.

Anyway, the fix I describe above will fix the problem and it was easy to do. Now it takes about 8 potatoes to raise the hatch and about 5 potatoes to lower.

Ed

Ed

Hey bud 12awg is only good for 20 amps not 41...