Cutting Dash - What to use?
 

I need to cut a large hole in my dash to install trim tab indicators. What is the best type of cutting tool? Sawzall? Cutoff wheel? Also, what do other people use to keep the surface gel from getting roughed up? When I installed my new helm and drilled holes, I put down the blue masking tape. When I drilled, I started with small bits and worked up to the correct size hole. Unfortunately the gel at the edges of the holes still chipped a little. What is the best thing to use to keep this from happening.

Also, the cables have "waterproof" fittings through the hull. I assume I should still seal the holes in the transom anyway. Is silicone good enough, or do I need to use a 2 part epoxy?

Thanks!!

It has been a few years since I cut any holes in my dash, but I remember using a jig saw. You will use a few blades they get gummed up and the dash on these boats is built tough. A sawzall is a too rough. Lots of tape will help the edge.
As for through hulls, use 5200 marine sealant, inside and out.
It you don't mind, send me a note or post your cable lengths. I have been thinking about indicators but for a while but never got around to it.

Thanks MD Mark. I saw the dremel suggestion in the other thread too. I'll buy that or a jig saw today.

Pat, as far as cable lengths, I just got the standard 16' that came with the unit and I planned on coiling the excess under the dash in a large radius coil. I think I'll only have to do that for starboard. The port cable should be pretty close at 16'. Is that a bad idea?

If you have a compressor I use a small nematic sawzall, works great. The biggest advantage is it's size, fits in the palm of your hand and takes standard jigsaw blades. When I cut my helm a jigsaw would not fit with the gages in the way. Mine is adjustable speed and power is adjusted by air PSI. About $50. I also use blue tape.

Yeah, now that I think about it, a jig saw may not work with the space I have on the dash. I have a compressor. I will look at the air recipricating saw. Will they have that at sears, or will I need to get it at Harbor Freight?

Done lots of dash work - the palm sized air reciprocating saw is ideal. The dremels and roto-zips are ok but tend to walk quite bit - they are great to have to clean up or enlarge the first cut to finished size. Coat the fresh cut inner plywood with some sort of sealant, be it epoxy or 5200 (4200 works good too and sets up faster). Use good quality blue masking tape, or if you need to see thru it I've used clear duct tape when I cut my speaker holes. Good luck!

I used a high speed dremel with a really small blade on it.. i basically "etched" the circle I was cutting out.. it didnt harm the edges of the gelcoat, then followed it with a holesaw..

The air saw was the goods. Cut through it like it wasn't even there! Unfortunately I lost the up solenoid on the starboard tab pump. I had to use my remote starter switch to jump across the solenoid to get it in the up position to get the cables installed. Indicators are installed and work great. Now the starboard tab is screwed! If it isn't one thing, it's something else.:( It should be an easy fix. Anybody know what type of solenoid is required?

What type indicators did you go with?

How did you make out with cable lenght?

Either a air powered reciprocating saw or a Roto Zip with a cutting bit.
As far as sealing the cables. I would go with 3m Marine silicome. 5200 is more of an adhesive. Marine silicone is tough stuff

I used 16' Cables. The port side was just about dead on, and the starboard side had some spare but not a huge amount. 16' on both worked out pretty well.

I used the Stainless Marine Deluxe no slack indicators. The install was pretty easy and they work great. Pics attached.

I used the 4200 to seal the threads on the cable fitting. I got her in the water today and no leaks! I still have to fill in the gaps in the transom around the cable from the inside. I will probably use more 4200 for that also.

Anybody know what type of solenoid I need for the Trim tab pump? Is it something I can get at the local Autozone or something?

I used Arco SW661 solenoids for my tabs. Napa here did not have them. Most of the auto solenoids are grounded by the solenoid bracket. You want the marine solenoids where the bracket attached to the solenoid is not the ground, it's isolated.

Oreillys found the one I needed in their Borg Warner Marine catalog. The Borg Warner # is S5204 in case anyone needs it. I should have mine tomorrow! $12.49!