Y2K construction
 

What's the differences between the Y2K "Race" and Standard constructions?

Below is two quotes from the website. Can someone explain this?

"special priced boat that is constructed using all the old tried and true methods that we have used for the past 20 years and found them more than adequate for this horse power. In fact, all the early race boats were built this way."

"Constructed for up to 1,000 HP"

You going to buy a Y2K Dave?
One difference I know is that the "race " / "1000HP" has foamed cored hull sides.
The (2) 30’ Supers I looked at up close and personal when I was hunting for a new boat had the cored sides. The sides of the hull were surely a lot stronger than the sides of our old 24’ Supers.
I would always suggest the stronger construction. It's going to last longer no matter what power you have in the boat. One of the selling points to me when I bought my particular Velocity is that it was built with a Kevlar reinforcement upgrade.
One other thing I suggest you look for is that the hull and deck joint is glassed together not just screwed together. This goes for any performance boat.

Dave, Why dont you call John, He can answer any questions you have. I'm sure he would be happy to hear from you (631) 226-1761


Jim

Thanks Guys.

So, the standard 30's don't have any coring in the sides? I asked John about the 24's once and he said that it wasn't necessary. When I first got my 24 I thought the sides seemed REAL thin. But, after running hard for many years it wasn't a issue. If I decide the Y2K is the boat for me, I will probably be looking at a used boat.

Dave

I think they use different resin for the race models more money. Coring makes the boat liter and stronger more time and material more money ! Weight you can make for with power but powers no cheap either !! Does a family man going to the beach at 70mph need a race model definattly not .

Both layups use the same vinylester resin. The layup materials are different. The basic layup is alternating layers of 1.5oz mat and 24oz roving. Whereas the cored version uses lighter 1708 glass.

Rather than start a new thread I figured I would bring this one back up.

1. What is being applied in these pics? Gelcoat, paint?

2. I am considering painting over it with something like Bilgecoat. Does that sound like a good idea?

I would like to clean up the finish a little, particularly in the cabin. I guess I got used to my 24 that had real nice gelcoat in the cabin.

That's Gelcoat Dave.
Your 24 had a cabin liner that was build seperately.

Thanks Pat. I used Bilgecoat on the engine compartment on my 24 and it came out pretty good.

Dave, are those pics the current build or...?

if not, Rick can you take some pics of the current build?

They are the original build pics from my hull. I just think the finish could be improved with something glossy and more easily cleanable.

I've seen Bilge Coat done in Bilges, and yes it looked nice, My buddy Dave did his 4 years ago. It's starting to peel in a few places. I told him " Don't even look at me, I told you to use gelcoat". You can do your cabin with it, but in a few years when it's starting to screw up and you have to sand it all off. Dave. You boat has an "UNFINISHED interior. Granted there is gelcoat in the cabin. But that just makes it look better then bare fiberglass. We offer a fully finished cabin for around $8,500. Don Y2K's cabin is finished, and it looks outrageous!. All carpeted, with a porti potti.
A quick scuffing of the gelcoat and a thin coat of a little more gelcoat will make it look new.

Thanks Rick! I'm OK with the "unfinished" part. I prefer not to have any carpet or cloth in there. It seems to absorb moisture and get that "boat" smell.

Gary put some real nice vinyl cushions in there and I love the cabin as it is. Just trying to improve on an already good thing. :drink:

Rick are back in your shop on a regular basis again ?

Nope, not as yet.

Rick,

What product would you recommend? I noticed West Marine has Waxed, unwaxed, laminating, non-laminating, etc.

Dave, buy the stuff you can just paint on with a brush.

Any pics of the finished cabin?

Waxed gelcoat

Here's a link to the website with the finished cabin. Scroll towards the bottom.
http://www.superboatonline.com/30p.html

Thanks Rick.

1 more question, are the seat bases lagged into the deck or are they through bolted somehow?

Lagged into. If you remove them, make sure you apply 5200 sealant/adhesive when putting them back in.

Thanks Rick, I was considering moving the seats forward an inch or two. But, I just noticed that probably won't work because the arm of the seat is already up to the throttle area.

Please forgive what is no doubt a stupid question. Is the cored layup stronger because of the coring? That is, does the lighter glass allow you to core the sides, thereby making the whole sandwich stronger than the un-cored sides on a standard layup?

A cored laminate can achieve the same flexural stiffness with much less glass. The middle of the section near the "neutral axis" of the laminate doesn't do much in bending. But, cored structures don't handle shear well, and can delaminate due to impact easiliy, especially if not engineered and constructed properly.

Engineered to withstand the same load, the soild boat will be heavier and much tougher. If the cored boat is built to withstand a higher load, then it can still be lighter, and tough enough.

There was a great article in Professional Boat Builder probably 12 years ago, where they dropped bowling balls on test sections of cored and uncored laminate. The cored got mashed, while the soild held up under the impact. But, we usually aren't designing for impact, are we?