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dennis r 07-22-2015 08:02 PM

598 big block chevy
 
Fresh motor only 10 hours no expense spared Dart block, Crower crank,Carrillo rods, Diamond Pistons ,Isky lifters, AFR Tony Mamo heads, Bob Madera cam Profiler intake, T&D rockers. Bob Madera can verify to all parts in this motor. Motor was dynoed at Wesco Racing Engines by Dave. Motor runs very good it is 850 HP at 6000 RPM $24000 still in boat can hear run text or call for more info 1-616-799-6187 Thank You Dennis

Tinkerer 07-22-2015 10:00 PM

Dennis - This is Steve Whitbeck - Dave put together the same 598 combo that you have. what compression ratio is yours? My cam has a little longer duration than yours.

dennis r 07-23-2015 03:27 AM

10.4

dennis r 07-23-2015 03:27 AM

I still would like to try your -2 lower unit

dennis r 07-23-2015 03:28 AM

What did it make on the Dyno

Unlimited jd 07-23-2015 06:18 AM

Bob and I were just comparing this engine to my 604's the other day. Too bad you didn't have a bigger set of headers on the dyno.

dennis r 07-23-2015 08:21 AM

That's what I told Bob I'm selling the headers with the motor

14 apache 07-23-2015 02:48 PM

Not to piss anyone off but the barometer that day was 30.1 its plugged into the auto correction as 29.29 so it will add HP. I don't know why it is on the dyno sheet that way. Look at the weather history and check yourself.

dennis r 07-23-2015 04:26 PM

I don't know anything about that but anyone that knows Dave and his Dyno will trust it more then any other one

SB 07-23-2015 07:44 PM


Originally Posted by 14 apache (Post 4333374)
Not to piss anyone off but the barometer that day was 30.1 its plugged into the auto correction as 29.29 so it will add HP. I don't know why it is on the dyno sheet that way. Look at the weather history and check yourself.

It, and most all performance engine dyno's, is correcting to 29.29 and 60* dry air. This is SAE Standard J607.

If it was 30.1 actual at dyno time, then the dyno computer would actually be correcting (power) down for air pressure.The standard is lower at 29.29 But, heat, humidity, etc, could, and did, raise the correction back up.

Lower elevation, more air pressure, more power.
Higher elevation, less air pressure, less power.
Given the same heat, humidity, etc,etc

I've raced and dyno'd in weather many times below the SAE J607 standard numbers. 1200ft below sea level conditions once. Mine shaft air. Many people broke schit. LOL.

SB 07-23-2015 07:53 PM

BTW: be careful with news' reported baramoteric pressure. Alot of the time, they report corrected pressure, not absolute.


Air pressure corrections

When you read a barometer the reading directly from it is the "station pressure."

Two things affect the barometer's reading, the high or low air pressure caused by weather, and the air pressure caused by the station's elevation, or how high it is above sea level.

No matter what weather systems are doing, the air's pressure decreases with height. If you're trying to draw a weather map of air pressure patterns, you need a way to remove the effects of the station's elevation. That is, you want to see what the pressure would be at the station if it were at sea level. Otherwise, all high-elevation locations would be mapped as having low pressure.

You need to calculate, sea-level pressure, which is defined as: "A pressure value obtained by the theoretical reduction of barometric pressure to sea level. Where the Earth's surface is above sea level, it is assumed that the atmosphere extends to sea level below the station and that the properties of that hypothetical atmosphere are related to conditions observed at the station."

To do this, you have to take into account the barometric reading at the station, the elevation above sea level, and the temperature.

Another kind of barometric reading is the altimeter setting, which aircraft use. It's defined as: "The pressure value to which an aircraft altimeter scale is set so that it will indicate the altitude above mean sea level of an aircraft on the ground at the location for which the value was determined." For it, all you need is the station pressure and the elevation, you can ignore the temperature. (Related: Calculate altimeter setting).

How pressure decreases with altitude

As you go higher in the air, the atmospheric pressure decreases.

The exact pressure at a particular altitude depends of weather conditions, but a couple of approximations and a formula can give you a general idea of how pressure decreases with altitude.

A rule of thumb for the altimeter correction is that the pressure drops about 1 inch of mercury for each 1,000 foot altitude gain. If you're using millibars, the correction is 1 millibar for each 8 meters of altitude gain. These rules work quite well for elevations or altitudes of less than two or three thousand feet.

The standard atmosphere is a table giving values of air pressure, temperature and air density for various altitudes from the ground up. You can think of these values as averages for the entire Earth over the course of a year. (Related: Standard atmosphere tables).

14 apache 07-23-2015 09:06 PM


Originally Posted by SB (Post 4333459)
It, and most all performance engine dyno's, is correcting to 29.29 and 60* dry air. This is SAE Standard J607.

If it was 30.1 actual at dyno time, then the dyno computer would actually be correcting (power) down for air pressure.The standard is lower at 29.29 But, heat, humidity, etc, could, and did, raise the correction back up.

Lower elevation, more air pressure, more power.
Higher elevation, less air pressure, less power.
Given the same heat, humidity, etc,etc

I've raced and dyno'd in weather many times below the SAE J607 standard numbers. 1200ft below sea level conditions once. Mine shaft air. Many people broke schit. LOL.

I just looked at the date and the correction seemed a little off in favor of making more power. If it has a hydraulic roller cam I would not believe the power with a single 4 holley.

SB 07-23-2015 09:24 PM

That's cool. Figured I'd enter some dyno chat. LOL.

A lot of people read them, not all understand them.

There are a lot of pos dyno charts out there. These do not do any favors to the engine owner..in fact, can be a major detriment by throwing major curve balls when trying to set up the boat - props, tune, rigging , etc.

BTW; BobM helped WetteVette some years ago who'm ended up going well into the 120's with a pump gas single NA 598" Bravo drive cat. You can bet that put out more than 800hp. LOL.

dennis r 07-23-2015 09:26 PM

It is a solid roller and I'm here to Tell you Dave does not fudge numbers to get a good number on the Dyno this motor has a very good set of heads and the header where only 1 7/8 primary this motor will make some one a great motor this would cost $40000 if you were to buy this out west

Black Baja 07-24-2015 05:59 AM

The power numbers sound very realistic to me. Actually for the amount of effort that went into that motor if it didn't put up those kind of numbers I would think there was something wrong with the motor. 691ft lb @3000rpm the thing has a power curve like a 4x4... It's always making power. Do you want torque or do you want horsepower? Take your pic it's always there.

payuppsucker 07-24-2015 10:31 AM

Standard day is 29.92, not 29.29

SB 07-24-2015 10:34 AM

Thank you ! I read his # and I guess it stuck in my thick skull. LOL.

And yeh, .7 can sway the needle some. So, good you corrected that !

Doh !

dennis r 07-24-2015 02:24 PM

Maybe you should call Dave and ask him about this

Tinkerer 07-24-2015 05:24 PM

Denis - I am in the process of putting it together right now. No dyno #s. It will get dyno'd this winter when the M4 goes on. Until then it will have to be just NA at 8.6 to 1

dennis r 07-26-2015 07:06 AM

New price $20000 need to move on

dennis r 07-29-2015 08:29 AM

Very nice motor make offer

dennis r 08-02-2015 06:46 AM

ttt

catman01 08-10-2015 10:19 PM

TTT for a well built motor at a great price!

dennis r 08-13-2015 08:04 AM

[ATTACH=CONFIG]544152[/ATTACH]Ttt


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