Here's a tip.
I assume you have a Brake Rite pump on the trailer...
The fuse that the controller pulls the juice from needs to be at least 40 amp.
30 will work, but it'll burn out over time... Trust me...

Tim, Thanks for the tip I will get a 40, I used a 30. Eric

Wouldn't using a 40 fuse in a circut designed for 30 possibly asking for trouble?

Over rating the fuse will make the wiring the 'fuse'

All right now Air Bag light on. Maybe coincidence, probably not coincidence. The good news, still 4K miles of warranty. Possibly occured as I hooked the red wires together at first.

I got the tip from the good people at Myco.
Then saw the 30 burn out in a friends truck a week later...

The BR pump needs plenty of juice all the time...
Just do it.

Since the Fords are already prewired with the fuses and relays, this should already be fused and a nonissue.

It is already fused from the factory with the correct amperage. I have never had the factory fuse blow on any of the trucks we do. So I can't speak first hand about putting a larger fuse in.

What does all of that mean? It means it should be a non issue. But maybe Tim has experienced otherwise???? I've seen crazier things have to be done to make something work correctly on these vehicles. I'm guilty of trying it all myself to make things work.

Case in point: Ford is the only manufacturer of the big three that makes their positive circuit to the trailer wiring hot only while the key is on. Can't say why they do it, but they do. Kind of drives me crazy at times. I can't count how many customers have had me rewire this circuit to make it constant hot while the key is off. Not saying it's right, but I am saying it's beneficial.

Buck