Re: Towing capacity question??????
 

That, I can appreciate! :D :D :D

Re: Towing capacity question??????
 

Every time i read this board i'm amazed at how many people here have more money than brains. And it's not that they're necessarily stupid.

Sorry, i can't afford a freightliner. I can't afford a dually. And if i could afford one, i wouldn't buy it. I don't have the room or the money right now to have two vehicles, and i don't want to try to park a long wheelbase beast every day.

Honestly, if you have to tow 5 miles twice a year, strap that 8000 lb boat to the back of an S10 and call it a day. Going down the road at 30 or 40 mph in an under-rated truck is not the end of the world.

On the loaded guns comment, it depends on the age of the kid and you're definition of "play". If i have kids, once they're old enough to shoot, they're going to learn how to shoot, and how to do it safely. But some people would argue that that's reckless and wonton disregard for public safety because i'm equipping them to become violent killers.

Your average half-ton nowadays is more truck than your average 1 ton was 15 years ago. 15 years ago it was perfectly acceptable to hook that big ol' boat up and tow it with your 1 ton.

Me towing last year down the highway, as i was equipped, is safer for the general public than your average 16 year old driving a kia.

Really, knowing what the hell you're doing goes a lot further than having the right equipment. You can have a first class shop and turn out crappy work, or you can turn out a masterpiece in a garage with hardly any tools. I'd rather drive down the highway with a skilled driver in an overloaded truck than a crappy driver with every safety device known to man.

Maybe if you knew how the hell to drive you wouldn't have lost it with your properly equipped truck.

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Sorry but towing 8,000 lbs w/ an s-10,,, is DUMB !! for you and everybody else on the road w/ you..

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No ****. But if the truck can get it out of the water, it can pull it 5 miles down the road at 25 mph without a problem.

You'd be surprised what works.

By y'alls definition of what you need to be "safe", no trucks in Iraq would have armor right now. It's too heavy.

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Of course I have. We all have- except maybe my wife who refuses to drive any faster than 5mph under the posted limit.

I don't travel 85 in 55 zones though. And, I strap my boat to the trailer and I make sure the brakes are in operating order and that the tires are up for the task. I'd like to think there's a difference- I believe most reasonable people do as well as the majority of statutes reflect this logic.

Are you suggesting that the behavior some are posting on here is acceptable to you?

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You, sir, are a menace.

I pray you don't live and drive anywhere near me.

Re: Towing capacity question??????
 

People deal with less than optimum equipment and facilities every day. Sometimes it can pose a safety hazard.

The key is to recognize the issue and take steps to mitigate risk.

Not everyone can afford to throw money at the problem. And not everyone has time to throw at the problem.

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Same here. Having some driver who can't handle towing with an F450 driving a freightliner anywhere near me is downright scary.

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8,000 lbs with an S-10?
With your towing practices, it could be the end of someone's world



No straps, no trailer brakes, rotten tires. You're delusional.

In my case, a driver fell asleep, crossed the median and hit my trailer broadside.

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At 25 mph, i doubt it. On the highway it's a different story. You act like weight is the killer... it's not. Inertia is the killer. Also known as kinetic energy. 1/2 mv^2. Double the mass and halve the velocity, and you've actually got a lot less force to deal with when stopping. If a truck is rated to tow 5000 lbs, and do it on the highway (like an S10), as long as the tongue weight doesn't rip the bumper off (or hitch, if you're only half crazy), you're not really doing anything too dangerous driving 25 mph with twice the rated capacity back there. You've got less side loads, less trailer sway, less inertia keeping you from stopping and turning.

It may not be entirely legal, but it's not like all our laws are intelligent.

:drink:

Once i got into it and really inspected it, i stopped towing on the highway and replaced the tires. The trailer had brakes, but the actuator was under-rated (it did not have a rating stamped on it, so this was not readily apparent). The drum brakes worked fine, but were worn badly.

And what did you do? What were the results? Were there injuries?

Just because it's not your fault doesn't mean your actions didn't contribute to the damage.

Towing is like riding a motorcycle. You need to know what everyone else is going to do before they do it. On a motorcycle, you do this so you don't die, when towing, you do this so you don't kill anyone. Extra following distance, lower speeds, generally less agressive behavior. And you have to know how to read people. And you have to know how to remain calm and deal with the situation when it arises.

Sometimes you can't see it coming, like this kind of situation. Then, it's about 1/3 equipment, 1/3 driving skill, 1/3 luck.

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I don't see the problem, I have an 05 150 supercrew that I pulled my 50 foot Nortech and launched it with it.






Of course it was only about 1/4 mile on gravel at 5 mph and my boat ramp is so flat you could shoot pool on it and you have to wait till the highest tides to get anything 40 feet or bigger on/off a trailer.

I sold my f 350 psd cc drw that was set up nice, because when I pulled my 42 Sonic to Nortech and the 50 back I knew I needed a bigger truck. Then when I towed it during the day in traffic and had the trailer brakes locked on 3 out of 4 axles and had to go to the shoulder and used over 300 feet to get stopped and was only going 50 mph I sold the 350 so I would never be tempted to tow that boat with it again.

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Twin Step-

You're a far wiser man than I ;)

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Im sure if asked on here if you would be alright towing a 50ft Nortech with a F350 DRW you would have been told yes.
I noticed people comment that they go below the speed limit etc.. One thing you have to look out for is when you go below the speedlimit towing everyone and their grandmother want to get in front of you in the city. When I was pulling my boat out of storage last week, which I pull with a F350 DRW, I had 2 light I pulled up to that I had cars jump in front of me which I was forced to slam on the brakes to keep from hitting these people.

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what do you guys think of this.......

my 94 3/4 ton diesel 4x4 sub is rated to tow 7500......but the same truck is rated to tow 10 000 with a 454.......i wiegh 9500 with 3/4 gas in the boat and all the chit......

from a control point of view the truck handles fine......I too come from a motorcycling background and totally relate to sleeper daves method of driving with a load like a bike......rode across the continent and back a couple of times on a bike......it works

its not a control issue withthe truck but I gotta get a run at the big hills.....like a rig

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I have a Ford F-150 S.C. w/ 5.4 and tow 7K, I always get a good run up the hill in my neighborhood,, very steep, speed limit is 30, I usually crank it up to about 35. Well there is a cross road at the bottom of the hill,,, here I am getting a head of speed going and a car stops at the cross section, then decides he's gonna pull out then decides he's gonna stop in the middle of the road after pulling out about 15 mind you i'm about 50 feet from the intersection and have FULL right of way,, I lay on the horn, slam on the brakes,, throw on the high beems and could see the fear of god in their eyes as over 6 tons comes barreling at them, long story shor the truck starts skidding almost jack-knifing the boat they decide to pull across the intersection I swerve around them just barely missing clipping the rear of the wagon.. Get her stopped they pull over and are drunk,,,,, I nearly lost my mind and had to get back in the truck before I killed the driver... I was FUMEING mad... moral of the story,, its alll good until the pani stop or some idiot pulls out in front of you, or stops at a YELLOW light,,, while you have every intention of going through the yellow because you got the boat behind you,, wound up a curb and almost went through the front window of a deli... Go ahead and pull your overweight rigs,, as long as everything goes smoothely you will most likely be o.k.... until the time it doesn't go smoothely and you wipe out yourself, your truck, boat, possibly injuring another person, nevermind the fact that you insurance may be null and void... :rolleyes: I am under my rated towing capacity and wouldnt consider towing something bigger, without getting a bigger truck.. I went boat shopping and bought the boat that fit my needs and the vehicle I had.... your risking everything towing over capacity..

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<thinking> I give this thread about another 24 hours or less before it gets poofed....

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That long?

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Amen, one thing people are forgetting, the truck is NOT supposed to stop the trailer and boat, the trailer brakes are, I HATE surge brakes, should be out-lawed. electric over hydraulic with the CORRECT brake controller is the only way to go

Re: Towing capacity question??????
 

:D :D :D Great thread!!

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Can anyone comment tell me what they would recommend for a 9000 lbs boat on a Myco trailer (guess the weight is 3000 lbs - still waiting for the paperwork) figure with fuel anchor blah blah I am 13500.... With what you guys are sating, I need a goose neck or an 18 wheeler. Is that about right?

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Legally,morally or emotionaly? :D :D :D

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I learned that lesson when i was 16 and driving my dad's new aurora without permission. Came about an inch from rear-ending some guy in a truck who slammed on the brakes at a yellow when i was already crowding him to make the light.

And again, you're well under the limit of your truck and you were still about screwed.

Like i said, it's all about knowing how to drive, and knowing what the other guy is going to do before he does. You saw the guy trying to decide what to do before he went, if you were reading him properly you'd have known to hit the brakes. If i were in that position, i'd have been at least covering the brakes as soon as I saw the indecision. Right of way or not. I know I did that many times on my motorcycle, and it probably saved my life one time in particular.

Generally the manufacturer ratings are based on things like transmission life, not brakes. My S10 blazer had the same tow rating as my half-ton suburban.

Re: Towing capacity question??????
 

BINGO!! Set the brakes up on the trailer right, and you'll be in good shape. When i upgraded the brake actuator on my trailer, it made a world of difference. I need to get on some scales and get the boat positioned properly though, i'm getting some lockup now when i panic stop. But the 2 times i've had to panic stop so far, it's stopped just fine. That extra following distance helps.

Although i like surge brakes. They work pretty well when set up properly. A lot of electric brakes simply ramp up pressure based on how long you're on the brakes, that's not good in a panic stop situation. I hesitate to say "all" but i don't think there's an easy way to tell the brake controller how hard you're hitting the brake.

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Wow....i was gone for a few days....guess where ......I HAD to buy another tow vehicle...yes again...due to the last was not good enough....yes...I did not want to...yes I can not use it for much else....so I do not want to hear it from you cry babies that you do not need another vehicle or it is not practicle.....you should not own the boat then......do you think i want to do this garbage ???....some of the opinions on here are really nuts....and i am just breaking sydways wagons about the wd hitch....but some of you guys are dumb....I still have to buy another truck to get it around in tight locations....you do not here me attempting to cut corners....hell...I even could not buy a single wheel toter like someothers on the board...you know why....cause they are at the limit basically with the single screw...you guys are cheap skates that someday....possibly will do someone else damage....here in jersey it is way worst also...whole north east....some of you in other parts of country do not understand....it is easier out there.....not so many close calls....your fortunate.......idiots! :D

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yeah, a stupid question for this thread.... :rolleyes: Just checked, lookes like a Dual F350 would do it... Suppose the 2500 GM and Chrysler's are a go. No Avalanch.... Maybe if I sell the steel myco and get an aluminum one. Heard they flex a bit though (Was trying to get that answered a day or so ago....) Would ask but I am afraid I'll get yelled at. I know! I'll use my Harley.... :D :eek:

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Electric over hydraulic, NOT straight electric, and yes you can control input into this braking system, how fast and how much braking is critical and very easily set up, FYI, 05 up Ford factory in-dash brake controllers are not compatible with electric over hydraulic systems

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Ok then, what did you buy and what are you pulling??

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What kind of brakes are on your trailer, drum, disc, surge, electric, or electric over hydraulic? brakes on how many axles? anything over 5000lb gvw in AZ requires brakes on all axles.

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It's a steel Myco. Tripple wheels, disk brakes on all wheels, 2 years old, hydraulic surge brakes - everything basically brand new. Tires still have the little rubber tabs on them. It;s a sweet trailer....

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It didn;t get much use. Everything has been checked out and it inspects perfect...

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Don't get too comfortable. Proper equipment or not, you could still easily kill someone with it. And that smug feeling might make you complacent, and more dangerous than me.

And it's not a matter of being a cheapskate, it's a matter of having the money to spend, or the credit. I've been pouring money into my boat, trailer and truck all winter to make it as safe as possible. Middle of last summer that wasn't an option because i was pouring money into a blown motor and $3 a gallon gas. Not everyone here can afford a $300k boat and a $50k truck.

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My opinion: convert your Myco to electric over hydraulic brakes [$1200 tops} buy a 06 Chev/GMC 3500 Crewcab Dually 4X4 LBZ H.O. Duramax/Allison, Install a Drawtite Activator II brake controller[compatable with new brake system] install Putnam 15k hitch with appropiate ball , weight distributing reciever and your done

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Translation: Just drop another 60 grand, no biggie.

Not to be a troublemaker, if he can afford it that sounds like a plan. But that sure ain't cheap.

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yes..well that is the point around here....everybody wants to have a boat but nobody wants to buy the right trucks... :rolleyes:

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Thanks.... Now I'll write it down in case the thread gets poofed... :D

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well sell it and get out......if you can not afford to tow your boat correctly....then sell it or do not use it like me...sorry...

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The steel Myco is better than the Aluminum Myco? Less weight vs more rigidity?

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40k for the Dually,piece of mind,,,PRICELESS!!!

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trailer is fine, salt or freshwater? Ive had alluminum trailers and I prefer steel, personal opinion

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yea, right.

Boating is not a matter of life or death. It's more important than that.

So many people on this board have way too much money. Just because i'm not loaded doesn't mean i'm not good enough to boat.