|
Originally Posted by bouyhunter
(Post 2080809)
Damn thing only has 55K on the dial, and is in great shape.
Still probably only worth 4-5K if I'm lucky. $2000 in brakes is a pisser. It's been a good reliable truck. (5.7). Like I said just a "beater", and I don't want to invest anything in it, but I need to keep it running for the time being. Do I need to bite the bullet and do the work myself? Should only be 300 bucks max- but do BOTH sides. Wannabe |
Thanks for the replies to this guys.
Well, it's definately got to be the line - I can wiggle it around right where it attaches to the drum. wannabe - I think you have to replace both lines, it appears to be a "Y" connection to the rigid line on the frame rail. So, by the time I get it towed to a shop, and pay for the repair, I'm into it for $400-500. That's probably cheaper than the penance I would have to do for all the cussing, swearing and throwing of things I'd be doing while working on it.:eek: |
get the tech/mech to use a tech2 scanner and ''park the valves'' in the abs unit after he cycles them ,then bleed the brakes with a power bleeder ,that should fix it ,also ck the abs sensors for rust as that will give false readings to the abs unit too
|
| All times are GMT -5. The time now is 01:09 PM. |
Copyright © 2026 MH Sub I, LLC dba Internet Brands. All rights reserved. Use of this site indicates your consent to the Terms of Use.