Chris Sunkin

You probably will be OK right up until the point that either you hit that big bump you didn't see or the overly stressed steel finally fatigues to its failure point. Watching your offshore boat pass you on the interstate is truly a unique, once-in-a-lifetime experience.

DJF

The factory hitch I removed from my 01 Suburban and the factory hitch on my 07 2500 Suburban are not even close in configuration except for the 2" receiver size. It appears that it is impossbible to upgrade the factory hitch on the 07 2500, or 1500, Suburban. Way to go GM.

Dave

wannabe

Are the frame rails different on the truck or is it just the mounting points?

I was told the 07 2500 Suburban/Avalanche was a carryover frame, maybe not.

Wannabe

Wobble

Completely new frame on all 1500, 2500 and 3500 light trucks/suvs for the new 07 bodies

Wobble

The problem is with the hitch companies, the specs are released well before the trucks so that the aftermarket people have time to design new products.

It's more likely that they are waiting to gauge demand for an HD hitch for a vehicle that mostly comes with an adequate one.

Rippem

Yo, Cat, do you have to assault us with your political views in your sig?

I mean come'on... there is a forum where, and created for these topics to be discussed and your views expressed, and I absolutely stand by the fact you have the right to have them!
Just not at the bottom of every post.

I can't imagine I'm the only one that thinks this is a little over-the-top...

herman

That's why we have gooseneck's

Thanks

www.offshoregroup.net

tblrklakemo

Your not. He is a disgusting loser, a political 60's hack, and is easily manipulated with his 600k number. Just don’t feed the troll and he will go to the daily KOS or the DU where people will listen to him.

Scott B

You guys with the "HD" Putnams might want to do a little investigating.. They ship them with low grade 1/2" x 3" bolts, 1" square spacers, lock washers and regular nuts.. On my Ford, the original hitch was held in place by 3/4" bolts going up through the frame into "bridged" captive nuts.. In other words, the captive nuts had a piece of steel connecting them, acts as a backing plate.. I shot a pic of the std bolt vs Putnams.. I used the standard stuff after slightly elongating the bolt slots on the hitch.. They also do not have any provsion for mounting the factory trailer connector bracket, I fabbed a spacer, welded it to the hitch, then attached the connector bracket to it...

On my buds Chevy hitch, the installer used 2 of what appear to be the original (look to be 3/4" also) bolts on the rear of the hitch, and four of the Putnam supplied junk for the other holes.. I also see where there is a set of holes in his frame that the stock hitch bolted to, Putnam doesnt...


VERY dissapointed in Putnam.. After three unanswered e-mails to them inquiring into whether or not the hitch came with the correct bolts, I gave up, fixed it, and went on with life.. I'll be looking at someone elses hitch for my other F250's...

Rippem

The supplied hardware issue has been covered more than once by myself and others, in this thread and others. As well as a rundown on what I and others have used to bolt-on overkill.

typically anything bolt-on for anything comes with sh!t hardware anymore.

this is not new news.

the original rear frame bolts because the nuts to accept them are tacked to the frame on top.

and yea the two factory bolts not used with the Putnam bolt the OEM junk to the bumper in an lame attempt to carry any wieght!!
the OEM does not have 4 frame bolts a side that I know of, and even if it did...it means nothing when it's the structure of the junk hitch itself that fails regularly not it's attachment to the frame.

do a search and you'll find pics of my install and hardware. Grade 8's, big backer plates top and bottom, double nuts...