Torsion axle replacement
 

Going to replace the rear torsion axle on the trailer this weekend (Should arrive via UPS today). Never replaced one before, but looked pretty simple. I plan on removing the discs from the spindles with the brake lines attached so I don't have to bleed the system when done. Anything in particular I should do in the process to make things simpler or is it as easy as it looks? (It's a 2005 Prestige triax, hydraulic disc brakes)

I have to give Prestige credit here. Their tech Bobby V, followed through to make sure I got the axle by the weekend. It just arrived and he also made sure I got his cell number to call him this weekend in case I ran into any problems. Nice work.

Kevin,

I replaced both on my old tandem axle Rocket POS trailer.

Are you taking the boat off of the trailer? I'd advise doing so. Also, hook the boat to the truck, and set the parking brake well, just to make nothing shifts. (I had my old trailer completely off the ground on jackstands. My ex-fiance sat on the fender, and knocked the whole thing off the stands. Luckily, I was not under the trailer.)

Pay close attention to the threads on your bolts and nuts, if you plan on reusing them. They are probably torqued on really tight from the original build, and the way trailers flex, make sure if you are reusing them, that the threads, bolts, and nuts are not compromised.

Lastly, I used a laser level to try and 'align' the axles. You should have a little play in the bolt holes on the axle allowing you some movement. The best way for me to do this was to hold the level against the flat face of brake rotor on and existing axle, and then align the other axle's brake rotor to be on the same vertical plane. With the laser level across one brake rotor, the laser should fall across the face of the next axle over.

Give me a shout if I can be of more assistance. I'll PM you my number.

I have a 10 ton jack and some stands I was going to use, but Bobby said to just back the first two sets of wheels onto about 18" worth of blocks to get the rear wheels off the ground. I thought that would work out. He also mentioned to mark the rotor assembly as a reference point to say a mid center point on the top of the old and new axle. That way I could slide the disc assembly back onto the spindle in the same spot. Could I use one of those cheap lasers that you would use to hang pictures on a wall? (I have on of those)

Yep, just a simple laser that will project 2' one way or another.

However, if you are not planning on removing the wheels off of another axle, you are not going to have a reference point. Even if the other axles are compressed due to the weight of the boat, you really are not going to have much to work with.

You may not have to worry about aligning. I did it because I could. I had the whole trailer suspended in the air, with no boat on it. Neither axle had weight on it, and it was easily to compare the planes of each brake rotor, and align them independently.

I'd say, just stick it on there in the fashion that you describe, and see if the tires start to wear abnormally over the next few weeks. It won't take long to show up if something is wrong. You can also keep an eye on things like the tires and bearings under bind/stress with a laser pyrometer (temp gun). I don't tow anywhere without mine.

The new axle may slide right back into position and may not give me any adjustment capabilities. I'll know more when I remove the old one.

Went in without any problem. I just need a couple of tack welds done for the brake line brackets.

Contact info
 

Dukenrock, do you have any contact info for prestige? I am having a hard time finding a replacement axle. Thanks, Eric

A lot of guys will install the axle and take two measurements to get them straight... one from each end of the axle to the tongue of the trailer, equadistant.