estimated weight of 30' older boats
09-13-2007, 05:06 PM
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estimated weight of 30' older boats
I am in the process of purchasing a 1984 30' scarab and I am wondering about the weight. What do other OSO members 30' boats weigh? It has twin 502's with an aluminum tri axle trailer. I have been told somewhere in the 7500# range with trailer.
09-13-2007, 05:21 PM
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It will be much heavier than that. My 1999 26' Sonic (25' boat) was 7280 lbs. on a tandem axle aluminum trailer with a single BBC. Dry and empty weight on the boat itself was 5500 lbs.
You are going to need a MINIMUM of a 3/4 Ton truck to tow that; and more importantly STOP and CONTROL, that towed load. You are probably going to prefer towing with a modern diesel engine.
Remember, fuel is 6 lbs./gallon. Plus anchor, coolers, tools, vests, lines, spare parts, other gear, water (8 lbs./gallon), etc. That stuff ads up FAST.
I'd venture to say closer to 9000-9500 lbs. Those old tanks were built HEAVY and solid.
You are going to need a MINIMUM of a 3/4 Ton truck to tow that; and more importantly STOP and CONTROL, that towed load. You are probably going to prefer towing with a modern diesel engine.
Remember, fuel is 6 lbs./gallon. Plus anchor, coolers, tools, vests, lines, spare parts, other gear, water (8 lbs./gallon), etc. That stuff ads up FAST.
I'd venture to say closer to 9000-9500 lbs. Those old tanks were built HEAVY and solid.
Last edited by Sydwayz; 09-13-2007 at 05:25 PM.
09-13-2007, 06:21 PM
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Just weighed my 34 Scarab and the given weight of 5100 lbs for the hull was dead on. Weight observed at wellcraft.com. Can't see you asked for advice on truck, if you did - tow it with a 3/4 ton or better.
09-13-2007, 06:38 PM
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Can't see you asked for advice on truck, if you did - tow it with a 3/4 ton or better.
I am going to pick it up the boat next weekend so I guess I will just have to see how it tows. GULP!
09-13-2007, 06:54 PM
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My 88 Villain IV is supposed to be 7400 dry (plus 120 gallons of fuel, plus cargo).
I have a 2008 triple axle aluminum that weighs about 1600 itself.
Put it this way, I wouldn't want to do it with anything less than a 3/4 ton truck *(diesel powered preferably). I have a dually, only because of a 5th wheel we used to own, do I need it for this boat, not really,....is it NICE to have stability and comfort wise while towing,.......YES! Dropping it into 4WLow to crawl out of the water and all.
I know a guy who pulls a 35 fountain around here with a 1/2 ton Chevy gasser. I cringe at the thought........
I have a 2008 triple axle aluminum that weighs about 1600 itself.
Put it this way, I wouldn't want to do it with anything less than a 3/4 ton truck *(diesel powered preferably). I have a dually, only because of a 5th wheel we used to own, do I need it for this boat, not really,....is it NICE to have stability and comfort wise while towing,.......YES! Dropping it into 4WLow to crawl out of the water and all.
I know a guy who pulls a 35 fountain around here with a 1/2 ton Chevy gasser. I cringe at the thought........
09-13-2007, 06:58 PM
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Oh, a little side note, the guy I bought the boat from had it on a trailer ONCE, towed it with a fairly new Yukon. He claimed that on the flat ground it did just fine, he said if he ever had to get into any kind of grades he would have been in serious trouble.
Towing it with as little fuel as possible might be helpful, figure you can lighten up about 650-800 lbs. there. Probably well exceeding the GVWR, Tow AND GV carrying weight (cause of the tongue weight) all at the same time though.
Just take it easy, you'll be fine
Then go to the dealership and get an 07 Cummins........
Towing it with as little fuel as possible might be helpful, figure you can lighten up about 650-800 lbs. there. Probably well exceeding the GVWR, Tow AND GV carrying weight (cause of the tongue weight) all at the same time though.
Just take it easy, you'll be fine
Then go to the dealership and get an 07 Cummins........
09-13-2007, 07:26 PM
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I towed my 34SS with a 1/2 ton ONCE!! I will never do it again. Traded it in for a 2500 Suburban. I know a dually diesel would be nice, but the cost is too high. Even my 3/4 ton Sub can only tow 10K, but that was a standard for all light duty trucks (including 1 ton duallys) up until 2001. Nevertheless - you will trade in your 1/2 ton to a 3/4 ton or better once you towed it - if case is that you will tow a lot. Towing it with that 1/2 ton - plan WAAAAAY ahead as that boat will push the truck ways and places you don't want to go.
09-14-2007, 12:47 AM
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My boat on a steel Myco is over 10,000 pounds. The trailer is close to 3000 pounds of that, and your alum will weigh much less.
Before these guys scare you to death on your truck, I pulled with a 96 1500 Sububan for a couple of years, Thousands and thousands of miles; not just down to the boat ramp and back, but half way across the country. I now have a PSD, and it does it better. The manufactuer's weight ratings, while a good idea, are for their warrenty issues primarily.
Look at the numbers: Your new truck probably weighs 7,000 pounds, about what a 3/4 ton pickup weighs, and what my Suburban weighed. That's one factor in controling a trailer many over look.
You'll want to add air bags for the rear, E rated tires, improve your brake pads, consider a WD hitch, but most importanly MAKE SURE YOUR TRAILER BRAKES WORK WELL!!! Those are susposed to stop your trailer, not the truck's brakes.
People will talk about insurance, but show me an accident claim where someone didn't do something "wrong". Insurance still pays even when their policy holder gets ticketed for causing the accident. What is the mfg's rating on your truck anyway?
Before these guys scare you to death on your truck, I pulled with a 96 1500 Sububan for a couple of years, Thousands and thousands of miles; not just down to the boat ramp and back, but half way across the country. I now have a PSD, and it does it better. The manufactuer's weight ratings, while a good idea, are for their warrenty issues primarily.
Look at the numbers: Your new truck probably weighs 7,000 pounds, about what a 3/4 ton pickup weighs, and what my Suburban weighed. That's one factor in controling a trailer many over look.
You'll want to add air bags for the rear, E rated tires, improve your brake pads, consider a WD hitch, but most importanly MAKE SURE YOUR TRAILER BRAKES WORK WELL!!! Those are susposed to stop your trailer, not the truck's brakes.
People will talk about insurance, but show me an accident claim where someone didn't do something "wrong". Insurance still pays even when their policy holder gets ticketed for causing the accident. What is the mfg's rating on your truck anyway?
Last edited by Chart; 09-14-2007 at 12:51 AM.
09-14-2007, 05:54 AM
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I weighed my Bullet with a tri axle aluminum trailer to see what I was up against for a road trip back in June. The boat had no more than 10 gallons of fuel in it:
Axles @ 10,300 lbs
Tongue @ 1100 lbs
Along with a Chevy crew cab dually (454) I was grossing 18,900 lbs without tools, luggage, etc.
With that I coverted to elec/hyd on the trailer. What a HUGE differance.
Axles @ 10,300 lbs
Tongue @ 1100 lbs
Along with a Chevy crew cab dually (454) I was grossing 18,900 lbs without tools, luggage, etc.
With that I coverted to elec/hyd on the trailer. What a HUGE differance.
09-15-2007, 12:28 AM
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My boat on a steel Myco is over 10,000 pounds. The trailer is close to 3000 pounds of that, and your alum will weigh much less.
Before these guys scare you to death on your truck, I pulled with a 96 1500 Sububan for a couple of years, Thousands and thousands of miles; not just down to the boat ramp and back, but half way across the country. I now have a PSD, and it does it better. The manufactuer's weight ratings, while a good idea, are for their warrenty issues primarily.
Look at the numbers: Your new truck probably weighs 7,000 pounds, about what a 3/4 ton pickup weighs, and what my Suburban weighed. That's one factor in controling a trailer many over look.
You'll want to add air bags for the rear, E rated tires, improve your brake pads, consider a WD hitch, but most importanly MAKE SURE YOUR TRAILER BRAKES WORK WELL!!! Those are susposed to stop your trailer, not the truck's brakes.
People will talk about insurance, but show me an accident claim where someone didn't do something "wrong". Insurance still pays even when their policy holder gets ticketed for causing the accident. What is the mfg's rating on your truck anyway?
Before these guys scare you to death on your truck, I pulled with a 96 1500 Sububan for a couple of years, Thousands and thousands of miles; not just down to the boat ramp and back, but half way across the country. I now have a PSD, and it does it better. The manufactuer's weight ratings, while a good idea, are for their warrenty issues primarily.
Look at the numbers: Your new truck probably weighs 7,000 pounds, about what a 3/4 ton pickup weighs, and what my Suburban weighed. That's one factor in controling a trailer many over look.
You'll want to add air bags for the rear, E rated tires, improve your brake pads, consider a WD hitch, but most importanly MAKE SURE YOUR TRAILER BRAKES WORK WELL!!! Those are susposed to stop your trailer, not the truck's brakes.
People will talk about insurance, but show me an accident claim where someone didn't do something "wrong". Insurance still pays even when their policy holder gets ticketed for causing the accident. What is the mfg's rating on your truck anyway?
