Surge brake question...
 

I just bought a 32 ft Baja with Myco trailer this year, the surge brakes do not work, got the whole system cleaned and ready to bleed, No fluid? so I disconnected the line at the tounge and I can move the tounge in and out by hand and get no fluid at all, is that like a master cylinder at the tounge? How do you fix them?

You should have a fluid reservoir at the tongue of the trailer. I lost brakes on my Eagle trailer twice when the long line running inside the frame from the tongue to the axles wore through from vibration and lost all the fluid.

Yes it a master cylinder and a small shock absorber to keep it moving smoothly. Sounds like a total replacement might be the way to go, they are not that much $$.

It was empty when I got it, I filled it and I was trying to bleed it, thats when I realized it was not working.

Surge brakes, even when operating, aren't worth a $hit. If you have truck braking problems (like overheating) there's nothing to cause a surge and engage your trailer brakes.

That is true, but they would be better then the none I have now! I towed it 2 times just to use the boat a little I was fine with a F250 but I want brakes foe next year, not real safe without them.

I upgraded from drums to Kodiak discs on my trailer. Every part of the surge brake system needed replacement anyway.( MC, lines, dampners, etc). My boat and trailer is probably 8k lbs going down the road. I am extremely happy with the performance of the braking system, especially last night when a deer ran out in front of me, and it lived to run out in front of cars another day.

surge brake ques
 

disconnect the safety chain and put a pipe on the cylinder and pump the brakes up that way. this takes two people to do this so take your time.

You have a point.:)

Let me re-phrase- if you're going to start spending money on your brakes, why not spend it on a safe, reliable system you can depend on?

I couldn't agree more, and I'll add that you can't control them independently or adjust them relative to the truck... but on a boat trailer, you're kinda' stuck with them. Electric brakes hate getting dunked in lakes, and most of us aren't using trucks with air brakes.

Thats why there are electric over hyd systems ;)

Electric over hydraulic is the way to go. Solves all the problems. System is run off the standard electric cab controller, rund an electric/hydraulic pump on the trailer that actuates the brakes.

You're not stuck with them and I don't think electric brakes hate getting dunked any worse than the hydraulics do. I've swapped every set of surge I had over the last 15 years for electric and never had a problem with them. I don't even disconnect them when I back into the lake-which I have to say is really nice to have the ability to have brakes that work backing in on a steep ramp(make sure you have sealed lights and dielectric grease on your connections). I always had issues with the surge brakes and talked to a guy about 15 years ago that was using mobile home axles (electric brakes)under a trailer with a huge Sea Ray on it. He said he towed his boat all the time from Erie to Cumberland and never had any issues with the electric brakes getting wet or failing because of repeated dunkings. I switched mine to electric and never looked back. The increased control is excellent. I've heard that the new elec over hyd systems are really good, especially if you go with the discs, but have not tried them. In any case, dump the surge brakes, you'll be glad you did. If you're going to spend the money completely rebuilding them, you can put in electric for the same money or cheaper anyway. All the electric brake stuff will go on your current axles, toss the surge tongue and buy a solid one, wire it all up and you're done. The only maintenance you'll have is to check the drums/magnets and your shoes at the beginning of each season when you re-pack your bearings, which you would have to do anyway. If your drums are crusted over where the magnets ride, take an angle sander with a scotch-brite pad and remove the oxidation so it doesn't eat your magnets. That's all there is to it.

E/H kits. Kodiak is good stuff. Cheap insurance!

http://www.etrailerpart.com/ultimateproseries.htm

Master cylinder is probably rusted/froze up. I know when I was going through my trailer brakes/bearings this fall I found leaky grease seals/grease filled drums and worn to the lining shoes. Replaced the bearings/seals and shoes and found rusted solid wheel cylinders, changed those and tried to bleed I found dry lines and a rusted/frozen master cylinder. Luckily I keep my boat racked so the trailer doesn't get much use but from what I can tell the trailer brakes hadn't worked for awhile (just bought the boat last year). So I bought a new master cylinder for the time being, but I'll probably do a disc conversion next year. Eagle trailer/Dico brakes btw.

You know, I guess I'd have to admit I haven't personally tried using electric brakes on my boat trailer... but I'd sure love to, they work SO much better.
You've got me seriously considering a swap.

Anyone else have electric boat trailer brakes and no issues with getting dunked in the lake? How about saltwater? I generally avoid putting my boat in salt but I might get a wild hair someday.

I went from Hyd. to electric on my last boat, getting ready to do it on current boat, its pretty much a no brainer.

If used only in freash water, electric brakes are doable. But the magnets in the wheels rustup very fast, maybe if flushed each time they may last a while longer. I would opt for the ele over hyd with disc. The best of all worlds and just flush after that salt water dunkin..................