I know....not really an easy way to do it. But that seems like the only way, IMO, to get the tongue weight dead accurate. I guess a mathematician or an engineer could figure out exactly how w/o all the trial and error....but good luck.

Why guess, give this a try, they are a little over $120 and worth it.

http://www.sherline.com/lm.htm

I have one of them and it's great. Most trailer shops should have one. Start calling around or just buy one. I'm sure they are on ebay for a smaller fee....................

YOu can move the boat on the trailer, just figure out the direction that you need to move it and go about 15mph and slam on the brakes. it won;t move that much and do it enough times to move it where you want. I do it ll the time if the boat is not on the trailr correct. works like a charm

You can use a bathroom scale.

http://www.curtmfg.com/index.cfm?eve...ntpieceid=1347

Now you can do it at the ramp on a slow day. You'll have to adjust the length on the tongue end to get to 1K#.

You're supposed to put one of these... ;) when you're making a joke.

Chris , what joke, some dealers load the boat on the trailer 1 foot to the rear. the only way for me to move it foward is to slam the brakes a couple of times to bring the boat foward where it needs to be. On the reverse if the boat needs to go back, I loosen the cable by two inches and back up and do the same thing. crude but it works when you can;t dunk the trailer

I watched a guy shear off the winch stand and shove his Fountain's beak about 4' into the back of his Suburban at the Catawba ramp on Lake Erie. Wet bunks didn't help things.

I set it up with the scale like Chris's link. Do you calculate with the weight of the trailer or just the boat? I am going to set up the tounge weight for basically an empty boat with no fuel. Then since the tank is centered just in front of the front axel it will just add weight. So far I slid the boat about 1 1/2 feet forward and have about 800 pounds of weight now. When my brother gets on the back of the boat to represent the added weight of the Konrads and new transmisions it goes down about 120 pounds. Then I will be taking weight out of the bow..... My guess is I will be moving the boat even farther forward but at leaste for now the tounge is solid on the floor and I am close to what it should be. I put boat jacks under the back of the boat and by lifting them up was easily able to slide the boat forward using the winch. Boat looks much better on the trailer now and it has gained me some much needed room in the shop!!! Now I just need to find some metal stock to make the side bunks and I should be good to go and get back to work on the boat!!!! :D

And if the boat has a good coat of wax on it it moves real easy. When I had my 42 Sonic I acid washed the bottom and waxed it, then put it back on the trailer. On the way home I had to slam on the brakes, the boat was only hooked to the fornt. The boat slid about 6-8 feet foward totaly pushed the winch tower over. I could stand in the 8 foot bed and touch the boat and the cab at the same time. About 5 full boost powerbrake hole shots and the boat was back where it belongs. I welded the winch tower back together added a 5 foot long galvanized fence post to the tower and it's still like that today. So if you ever see a 42 Sonic on a Rocket trailer with this funny pipe going up the front of the trailer thats my old boat.

But this is the way I would do this too, but as long as it tows fine I wouldn't worry to much, My 50 Nortech has maybe 250# up there and it tows fine with the right truck.