Trailer security?
 

What security devices are you guys using? I got a Master lock coupler lock when not hooked to truck. Also was thinking about a boot/wheel lock for when parked at ramp area like this one http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eB...192157819&rd=1

Of course I use hitch lock pins. Anything else you have found?

We had our enclosed motorcycle trailer stolen with a coupler lock and a pin lock on it. There was no evidence that either had been cut off. We think they rolled it up onto a tow truck type tilt trailer or tied it to a trailer hitch/ball and just drove it far enough away to cut the locks off. At least we had taken the Harleys out or they would have been gone too. This happened in a busy apartment parking lot. I think the boot/wheel lock or even running a good quality chain/cable lock thru the wheels would help. Anything to keep them from moving it. I would keep the other locks on, too, just to make it difficult.

trailer locks
 

4 Kryptonite Fahgeddaboutit chains thru the wheels and a Trimax tongue lock. http://trimaxlocks.com/FullSize/UMAX100.htm

You'll need a torch or a abrasive cutoff saw. Or a crane.

At home it's inside.

If they want it bad enough they'll get it. Locks & chains are deterrents to amateurs and crimes of opportunity.

This looks like it might have been usefull in your case.
http://www.amazon.com/DeWalt-MobileL.../dp/B000IZG9VG

I do realize that but I feel anything you can do to slow them down or make it so much trouble that they move along is worth it. Anyone use one of those boots? Are they easily defeated?

The issue with the boots is dragging them along. I wanted more than one and carrying four of them would be cumbersome. The four chain setups fit right in a small box on the trailer. It takes just a minute or two for each one- it goes through the front and middle wheel and locks, then another through the middle and rear. The only way to defeat them is to cut. The boot locks look susceptible to slide-hammering the lock and/or freeze-fracturing it.

insure that big bad myco :)

Selling trailer security devices, I have seen the good, bad n ugly.. At best you are going to slow them down, you are not going to stop them. Bootlocks like the trimax are not bad, but rarely work with trailer brakes. They are defeatable, and rather easily. The stern lock one is interesting, but I need to see it before I would feel comfortable commenting upon it.

The chain theory is dependent upon your locks. I ONLY sell Abloy and Cisa chain locks, and only use them myself. With these locks the chain becomes the weak point, not the lock. That said, I can also SILENTLY cut hardened square link chain in 4 seconds with a commonly available tool... No, I won't tell ya what it is either...

Met a guy at a local 7-11 a month ago who thought he had it all figured out. Locked the trailer to the truck, locked the boat to the trailer and locked the truck. Mistake was they stole the whole rig! Truck, trailer and boat!

LOL I just told my wife that story today. I use the club and alarm to try to fix that problem. Like I said before I know short of putting an armed guard next to it if a pro wants it then............

But like I also said if you can make is a PIA they may think it is not worth it. Just trying to make life a little harder on the scum that commit these crimes:)

The steering wheel clubs are worthless. In 1/2 second a thief can use a pair of bolt cutter and snip your steering wheel to slide it right off. The most expensive part of the steering wheel is the airbag, and the thief does not damage it by doing so. They don't care about your steering wheel.

I will often pull a couple fuses from my car/truck when I am concerned about theft, and I use this:

http://www.amazon.com/The-Club-Auto-.../dp/B000L9T7AY

Its like the club, but it keeps your brake pedal or clutch pedal from being depressed. They can't start the car or put it in gear without the clutch pedal on manuals.. Most autos can't be put into gear without depressing the brake either. Its also tough to steal a car without brakes. In order for a thief to disable the "foot" club, they would have to be buried under the dash; totally vulnerable from behind. I think it's a great product.

As for the trailer alone, I use a Gorilla tongue lock; and normally wedge the trailer between a building or tree, and another vehicle when its parked by itself.

these battery powered cut off saws and saws alls have not been a good thing for trailer security........:(

A sawzall won't even scratch a kryptonite chain. I tried. I also tried 4' bolt cutters. Abrasive wheel buzzes right through it though.

Amateur tools ;) ;)

I write speedwake on the trailer and haven't had a theft problem yet!

If you really want to try your locking devices out leave your rig at HAUL OVER MARINA. If its still there the next morning you have a winner!

LOL, Matheson ranks a close second...

I've never understood this trailer security topic when it comes up. We've lived in our trailer since we got married 14 years ago and we've never had a problem. :rolleyes:

Buck

Isn't there a a lock that locks the trailer hitch to the stinger and ball that you can leave on the entire time you are in transit?

I keep the drawbar locked to the truck at all times. I keep the coupler locked down onto the ball with a tamper/cut resistant padlock at all times as well.

I also invested in the dual arm Trailer Guardian, which can also be locked. It prevents the ball from being removed/coming lose from the drawbar, either maliciously by theft/tamper, or inadvertent like the nut comes loose from the actual ball.

http://www.durasafe-usa.com/guardian.htm

I had to have mine specially made by them to fit my drawbar, but it works well, and I use it always.

Thanks Sydwayz, that is what I was remembering. I may have to customize mine too to fit the weight distributing stinger set up.

My pleasure.

It ships with one pin-lock for the arm/piece that slides up and down over the coupler. You can ask for/use two locking pins if you like, but they would probably be pretty easy to lop off with bolt cutters. The pins are only about 1/4" diameter.

To make it more secure from theft/tamper; you would probably want to find a couple of padlocks to fit it.

Good point o fht ball nut. Mine is tack welded in 3 places. More to keep it from working loose which happened once.

that guardian looks good

Are the cable locks easy to cut????? I got mine from Homedepo.

Kinda looks like this one

http://www.jsaccessories.co.uk/Picts...2900000001.jpg

apparently

http://www.bicyclesource.com/bike/th...g-a-lock.shtml

A bicycle lock:(


Being its .600 thousandths thick and a braided steel cable ,How hard would it be to cut it with bolt cutter???

Mine is the Kryptonite one like this one
http://www.kryptonitelock.com/Produc...=1001&pid=1185

I wonder if this would be much difference being 1 inch in Dia??
http://www.kryptonitelock.com/Produc...=1001&pid=1179


mine new
http://www.masterlocks.com/item_master.asp?CID=1478

If a pro wants something, nothing will suffice. Think about it, a portable plasma cutter will cut through an I beam in 20 seconds. The key is a deterrent for the petty thief. Anything that can be cut with a bolt cutter wont even work for them. Anything that has to be damaged to the point that it is obvious or significantly compromises towing once cut would be ideal such as the things suggested by Chris.

We use the heavy kryptonite cables like those to lock up ladders on the jobsite. My laborer lost the key on one and I cut through it with a cordless sawzall in a couple minutes. All they do is keep honest people honest.