Rippem

I'll try to be concise...whilst giving all the necessary details

'02 Eagle triple-axle
Dexter 12"x2" 5.2K surge drum brakes
= suck
I repeatedly have the dragging issues common to these.
I generally have any 2-3 of the 6 dragging to some degree every time I trailer.
I trailer short distance (20-30 mi.) locally over flat good highway and secondaries.
I've flushed and bled more than once
I've had 'em apart and all the hardware and springs appear to be in good order, though the shoes/drums are glazed some now especially from the dragging/heat.
I can't believe it's the master cyl. or return shock as if it was they would ALL drag + the coupler returns fine.
I've considered the rubber hoses breaking down internally but I also have the issue on the side that is hardline right to the wheel cylinder.
SOOOOO...
I could rebuild the whole system including shoes, wheel cylinders, and maybe soft lines. Not touching the master cylinder I'm in for say $400 including getting the drums turned.
NOWWW...
I have found the Dexter 5.2K ELECTRIC drum complete direct replacement assemblies on sale for $34 apiece (about what a set of uni-servo free backing shoes alone for my existing surge set-up cost)
This of course does not include the hub/drum itself, but it appears on Dexter's website the drums I have will work as there is only one PN 8 lug hub/drum listed for both surge and electric
A breakaway kit is $32 complete
an inexpensive controller will work fine.
This would get away from fluid actuation
and give me in-truck control over the trailer brakes.
I have done a search here and there is little mention of electric drums on boat trailers. What there is has been positive. No horror stories in FW dunking. My buddy axapowell here has them on his Viper trailer hauling a 353 and I've not heard any gripes...

so for about the same buck as screwing with the surge system, I can go all new electric drum, have my drums turned, breakaway kit, and controller.

This is as an alternative to the full Kodiak EOH conversion (which I was about resigned to do) for $2500.
I just don't want to spend that kind of jack right now (and it's really not justifiable for my purposes) but I'm gonna have a stroke continuing to struggle with these surge brakes!

talk to me...
especially if you have ELECTRIC DRUM BRAKES on a trailer that gets dunked.

scottc

Water and ele brakes don't last. More so in salt water. Look into a disc brake system with the EOH. More money but gives you full control and no drum issues.

Chris Sunkin

Full electric is marginally OK for a trailer that gets dunked. They do OK on travel trailers. They'll take quite a bit more maintenance than the rest. The braking still isn't great but it's marginally better than surge brakes. I had them on a Baron and spent more time f-ing with them than I care to think about.

If you bite the bullet and convert to full EOH on discs, you'll never regret the cost. In fact, the first time you tow, you'll forget all about what you spent. They may save your life one day as well. All it takes is one quick moment of inattention that leads to a panic stop and you'll kinow what I mean.

bowtie

I agree with Chris, EOH full disc is the way to go. I have them on my 16,000 roller trailer and I can stop anything I tow with out hardly using the truck brakes. I also dunk them on a daily basis and no problems. It is easy to hose them out also, where durms hold the salt water forever.

RedDog382

Rip,

Sounds like some of your wheel cylinders are frozen up and need to be replaced. The Eagle I had with my 311 had surge/drum brakes. The Eagle for my 382 has the EOH ... the EOH is the cat's behind in heavy trailer brakes. They are definately worth the investment.

I changed from drums to the Kodiak disc brakes over this past winter. Haven't had a chance to pull the trailer yet since as I have been working out here in Las Vegas. I ordered everything through Orange County Trailer associated with the SCOPE club. I can get the number for you if you want to talk to them.

Chris Sunkin

Straight electric works differently. There's an electromagnetic "puck" that attracts to the inside face of the brake drum when activated. If you picture the shoe surface of the brake drum, the face perpendicular looks like a disc brake rotor. The puck is on the end of a lever that actuates the cam that moves the shoes- similar to air brakes. The more current, the tighter it pulls, the more the brakes are applied.

Rippem

thanks for the replies.

I do understand how electric drums work Chris, as always you're a wealth of good info

I was just looking for anyone that had any success with electrics.

I also understand EOH is the cat's pajamas, the safety, relative lack of headaches, and confidence going down the road, but I'm really gonna have to reach for the coin right now, chit is temporarily sqeeky tight...
but I've had it with these surge brakes.
The one thing that makes EOH outlay make sense is that I am in this particular rig for the duration. I do see EOH as an investment I'll get my dollar's worth out of over the next 5-10 years...
next question...
can I get away with 2 axles for now. I mean once all the rest of the conversion is in place, it's cake to add the 3rd set of discs later.
I mean 2 sets of EOH 13" Kodiaks has got to equal the stopping power of 3 sets of drums right?
I'm not worried about the legalities, just the function.

Kims

I had the same problem / sympthoms as you mentioned in your initial post. After replacing three of the wheel cylinders to a cost of $26,- each, the surge brake system made a believer out of me - it actually works pretty good. I tow a 11.660lbs boat/trailer with a yukon XL and is very happy with the braking performance. There might be better solutions out there, but regardless of how much you invest - there always will be something better (just a matter of time...). I go with what is good enough to be safe and legal, and my surgebrakes is definantely on the safe and legal side. Chris always gives good advice and he is probably more experienced than me, but with 20 miles of towing, you might want to consider having your current brakes fixed by a professional and be very happy with the outcome.

Rippem

I'm entirely capable of doing the work myself

I just can't decide which way to go.

I guess at the least for now, I could replace all the wheel cylinders, sand the shoes, and get the drums turned and see what happens!

Thanks Kims, 'cause I was also looking for real experience/troubleshooting.

I can say honestly I've been suspect of the wheel cylinders...they don't leak, the exposed plunger surfaces aren't rusty (if they were, obviously the seal would be torn-up and leaking) but when every time I've bled them (especially the first time I went for a complete flushing) I've gotten some (alot) of sediment/flakes/rust/tea colored fluid in the immediate out of the wheel cylinders.
more of what any of you have found the fix was for mis-behaving surge drums please...

Kims

Funny, I am a pilot and got an engineering degree as well. The cylinders on my trailer looked A-OK, they just didn't move as they where supposed to, despte the fact that they where new, according to the previous owner. While bleeding I had a friend turn the wheels and that is how I found out they where not working properly. Jack up on side of the trailer, make a bar that goes down in the hole where the safety brake is and start checking, this could be an easy fix... If you where in Vegas, I would say bring it over and we will get it taken care of.