08 F450 Towing Question
 

Quick Question. I picked up an F450 last week. The mount/hitch on the back of the Truck is rated at 16K lbs w/ weight dist. hitch, but only 8k lbs for weight carrying/std towing. I'll be towing about 13K lbs MAX.

So my question is for guys that have a 450 and are towing above 8K lbs, which direction will be better, install a Class 5 mount and hitch and go with a standard setup, or leave the current mount on there and get a weight dist hitch. I've never used a weight dist in the past, so I'm not sure what the dis/advantages are and what are the cost differences if any?

Thanks for the help.

Weight distribution would be a better choice for several reasons. Also, the hitch and owner's manual instruct not to remove the factory installed hitch which could be a liability issue later.

I'm guessing you have a WD Hitch on your F450?

Yes. I far prefer that towing heavy loads. I also have a B&W turnover ball for gooseneck towing, but in my opinion, the weight distributing hitch tows the best.

Class 5 is going to be much easier to use and pull. 95% of people on here pull that way. WD hitches are a PITA.

I disagree about the PITA. Putting the WD arms on takes about 30 seconds a side.

Having not used WD hitch before, the setup seems a bit complicated. According to the owners manual Fountain 47SC is correct. Thats kind of why I asked the question, trying to figure out what the "masses" are doing.

I've always used a Class 5 in the past (F350 SRW). I've been told that the Std Mount on an F450 is a Class V, but the instruction/information sticker is faded and hard to read, so I can't confirm.

I appreciate the input, I realize I've got plenty of truck, just trying to be as safe as possible. Thanks again.

My F450 came with the same hitch. Go for the Reese rated at 16,000 lbs.

Hitching up!
 

Sir:
You already have a WD receiver on your new truck. You just need the coupling equipment to make the WD work for you. Boat trailers typically have a "pole" style rather than a "a-frame" configuration at the coupler. I have had good results with a "Equalyzer" brand coupler. It is the only assembly I found that will mate with the "pole style" front end of a boat trailer. The coupler assembly attaches to the drawbar that slides into your WD receiver. The tension bars link the coupler to the trailer frame. When the tension bars are adjusted properly, you will see the entire truck squat about an inch on its suspension at the front and rear axles. You are moving that 1000+ lbs of tongue weight and distributing it over both axles of the power unit. The WD assembly will provide you with improved stability and sway control as you cruise on down the highway. Money well spent...

Info on WD hitches on past posts:

http://www.offshoreonly.com/forums/g...tch-balls.html

http://www.offshoreonly.com/forums/t...ing-hitch.html

If you are going to us a WD hitch, I highly recommend an Electric/Hydraulic trailer brake system.

It does work with Surge Brakes, but it wears all of the coupler mechanisms quickly.

I drive an 08 f-450 4 dr and pull a 36 ft car trailer. I have scaled out at 13860 lbs. this is a tag along, (bumper pull) trailer with just a 2 5/16 ball. truck pulls great. bad picture of truck but this is the trailer.
http://i59.photobucket.com/albums/g3...Picture070.jpg

Thanks for the info guys. I ended up buying a Reese Titan Class V Hitch, 16K Ball Mount and a 16K Ball. After installation, it cost just about the same as the WD Hitch, but now I won't have to mess with the bars. Thanks again for the help.

F-450
 

I think if you look closely at the verbage in your owners manual under towing capacities it will show that the only way you can tow that weight is with a wd hitch. I set up my 382 with a wd hitch and it works great. The bars take all of 3 minutes to install. With these boats soooo heavy and lawsuits the order of the day that any accident involving personal injury I would want to have my setup right. just my 2 cents.