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Tell me if this will work
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I got my toung weight right and this is what I ended up with in the rear. I haven't cut anything yet. The last pic is what I'm thinking of doing. Just to get an idea how it looks. I don't have enough length to have a drive guard and I don't want to add to it and really don't want to cut it off either just remove the 2 center crossmembers and leave the length stinking out on the sides. Do any of you see a problem with doing it this way? It is basicly the same as having a short drive guard isn't it?
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I'm afraid if you're pulling the boat on the trailer or powering on in the wind your lower units may hit those ends where the taillights are. It may be ok the way it is if you exclusively float off and on with the drives all the way up.
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what size velocity is that? if im right thats the 33 deep impact trailer that was bought from hideaway. you might be better off selling that trailer to lucky strike. he has a 33 contender with trips and is looking for an aluminum myco. if you start cutting on that trailer i think you'll wish you hadnt. the aluminum trailers are very sensitive to being exact. the welds tend to break if the weight is not distributed correctly
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VELOCITY 32' and it was for a 33 impact. We have the bunks repositioned to fit the Velocity so it is not for sale, just looking for some ideas for the back of the trailer. The boat only weighes 7K and it is a 15K trailer.
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if you want to leave the main frame pieces long, cut out the cross members that would be in the way, then reweld the pieces that hold the tail lights in on the outside.
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Originally Posted by gofastkyle
(Post 2862532)
if you want to leave the main frame pieces long, cut out the cross members that would be in the way, then reweld the pieces that hold the tail lights in on the outside.
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Yep. That would give you a bit more prop clearence. Plus if you keep your tie down point towards the back it will help to keep your boat from sliding forward in a emergency braking situation.
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Box it in and and install the marker light. Run the wires through the old marker light hole.
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I would do it like this ,with a drive guard !!!
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Originally Posted by daredevil
(Post 2862636)
I would do it like this ,with a drive guard !!!
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i dont think you have enough length to just install a drive guard. i think widening and adding a little length would work just fine.
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Originally Posted by Velocity Vector
(Post 2862688)
I think your right DD, I like it .. I'm gona try it with the guard. It will also make the trailer and boat look more perporshinal with each other since I have it so far foward on the trailer. I won't have to add much if I don't widen it like this one I found. Those engines on that mayco you got there are staggerd and drives are closer together looks like. How much room do you need between trailer and props to be safe?
Since yours is side by side. But then on the other hand your boat floats way above the trailer when loading,,,????? To be safe i would widen it !!!! Since you are cutting out the cross member u can use that mat ., and your light bar can be modified as the new one !!! Not that bad . Take your time and do it right !!!!! Scott:ernaehrung004: |
Thanks guys, I'm going to widen and lengthen it with a swing guard, Bout how far should the guard be from the props foot or so?
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Originally Posted by Velocity Vector
(Post 2862867)
Thanks guys, I'm going to widen and lengthen it with a swing guard, Bout how far should the guard be from the props foot or so?
I have like 5 inches !!:cool: |
Originally Posted by daredevil
(Post 2862875)
I have like 5 inches !!:cool: |
Originally Posted by Velocity Vector
(Post 2862886)
That's what she said.:evilb::evilb::evilb:
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I will say one thing about her, She has bigger balls than most men I know.
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Originally Posted by Velocity Vector
(Post 2862906)
I will say one thing about her, She has bigger balls than most men I know.
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Since your trailer won't have a lot of overhang even with the guard, make sure you can raise and lower drives with gate shut.
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Thats what I was thinking as well a swing gate.
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It did it's job.
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