Drive guard on a trailer
 

What are the draw backs if any for having a drive guard on a V bottom trailer for a 39' boat ?

If the space you store in is tight lengthwise, the drive guard could potentially put you over the length of space available. If you are stored/parked in a tight space, you may not be able to swing the gate open to do service or whatever. Other than that, I am really happy that I went with the drive guard.

Watch out for gate swing in tight places. Depending on the terrain that you park the trailer on, you could rub the bottom of the trailer guards on uneven terrain. That happens to me when I put the boat on the side of my house.

I am having manning marine build me a new one just like this, glad to hear it is a good option.

That's my trailer right after Ron completed it. 6 years with zero problems. I would suggest you get electric over hydraulic not surge. Might be good to tell him your just as fussy as the guy w/ the 34 Saber also. I would put my trailer up against anybody's, no problem. Manning has come a long way since he built his first aluminum trailer.

Hey, glad to meet you, he is doing electric over hydraulic and all the bells and whistles, I used yours as an example of what i wanted, also added backup lights and electric longue jack, they are starting to build mine monday. Will tell him i met you as well. Thanks Laszlo

How do you like the drive guard ? any suggestions to modify or change on the trailer ?

I sat down w/ Ron and we wrote out a list of everything I wanted and what my expectations were. He did everything I asked. Only issue I had was that the boat didn't fit the bunks very well when the trailer was first completed, but Ron was excellent in correcting that situation.

I would recommend having him drill a drain hole on the inside bottom of the steel post that has the adjustable bow stop before he welds everything in place and paints it. My post would fill with water which could cause problems if you cold store up here in the great white north and it happens to freeze full of water. I'll attach a very poorly edited picture so you know what I'm talking about. Look for the black arrow.

I am a very happy customer, 6 years with no problems and the trailer looks like the day I picked it up. I would never buy a steel trailer again and I would not hesitate to have Manning Marine build me another trailer in the future.

Anything else that you want to discuss, shoot me a PM w/ your phone number and I'll give you a ring.

Bill

Laszlo, You may want to have Ron set-up your bow stop "below" your bow eye. Mine bow eye presently is about in the middle of the bow stop and when my boat "floats" off the trailer the bow drops and rubs the first chine below the rubrail which is where my paint starts on my boat. I've had some damage to the painted area so I'm going to lower the stop between the 2nd and 3rd chine. I wish I would of had him do a power tongue jack on mine, but he talked me out of it. Let me know how yours works out, I've got to have him add one. By the way, I have a 33' AT, so if you have the paint starting there, you'll want to look into that. Steve

Sounds good, i will pass along the info to them. I am doing the power tongue jack for sure, I added one on my existing trailer and it is much better at the end of a long day to just hit the switch and off you go, I bought a used trailer to pick up the boat when i bought it since i had to move fast when i got the boat and was waiting until i sold it so i could order my new one. Manning did my trailer for my previous boat and loved the way the trailer was built so i had them do my new one as well, they started mine today so will have some pics soon to post as well.

You may want to make the drive guard removable.

Reason, going up a ramp into a facility that is at loading dock height would be nearly impossible.

Agreed, I could see where I also was going to have paint damage, so I had Ron build a new bow stop that was another 6" shorter & it probably should be even short so that as you stated would rest between the 2nd and 3rd chine.
I have a Manning steel and love the drive guard. Only draw back is the time to swing before launching. If I plan to pull the drives I open the drive guard before backing into the garage. I also had Ron put tie down loops on the inside of the drive guard about 1/2 way back to strap the boat transom loops. He may put these in anyways, but anything you want make sure to specify, I created a list of options to give him.

I thought of a couple things that scare the chit out of me w/ the driveguard. The ramps that I use are long and sloped gently, I almost always pull up to the dock, get the truck and back in and pull the boat onto the trailer - no problem, blood pressure stays normal. A couple of times I had a good friend meet me at the ramp and he would back the trailer in before I was at the dock, pretty normal in many parts of the country - I am always scared chitless that I am going to get the boat out of whack and scrape those two daggers sticking 4-5' past the bunks on the bottom of the boat. The other scenario is steep ramp w/ short dock. The beams of the guard will be pretty high up as you back down, make sure you don't poke one into the nice shiney bow of your boat. Just a couple things to be aware of when you start using your new trailer.

The guard swings out of the way for loading on one side with a hinge as fas as i can see. Do you guys open it up when loading ? does it have a catch to hold it when in open position ?

The back opens like a side swing tailgate. The builder will usually put a pin hole all the way back 270* from it's original position to hold it open.

What I am referring to is traversing a steep grade. The tail ends of the frame rails are likely to drag the ground when transitioning up and down said grade.

OldSchool had a drive guard built for his aluminum I-beam trailer that is completely removable.

Don't worry Pat would just have to get a good running start.:lolhit:

BTW very nice looking trailers

LOL good one.

only two major things to caution on....
 

one - dont forget to open the gate when you back in to retrieve your vessel.
two- it can drag on really uneven road surface or entering or exiting gas stations with big pitch differences.

Would you recommend those little wheels on the back under the rails ?

I vote for an airbag suspension on the trailer so you can lay frame too!

Then i would have to add spinners and under rail rope lights. lol

Almost done and coming along nicely.

Looking good.