Need help guy's? Time for shocks and maybe a level kit?
 

I have a 2004 2500HD Crew Cab just hit 75k and was going to replace the shocks, the question is has anyone used a torsion key leveling kit? And which shocks do you guy's use? Thanks for any help in advance!

For the money hard to beat Monroe Reflex shocks especially since a lot of times I've grabbed them at like buy 3 get 1 free, give a firm well controlled ride. Used them on all our trucks with no problems for years. Sears is usually running sales on them like the b3g1 free deals or 50% off etc, I think the Rancho equivalent of the Reflex is the RSX shocks. I also have the Monroe Air-Max shocks on one of the suvs in the rear that are adjustable, good shocks too.

Don't know about the 2500 but my 1500 Avalanche was able to be leveled without changing the key. Just did this at the end of this past summer and I love the way it looks but hate what it did to the ride quality. Come this summer going to lower it back down a little. I do know if you just stick a aftermarket key in and don't do any other front end mods things will start wearing out quickly and breaking. It puts to much strain everything.

Fixx
 

i have done a few keys,their is a tool to get the old ones out or you will have to brake loose the upper ball joint and remove the shock and sway bar links to get the pressure off of them to slide the rear cross member back to get the keys out..if you want to keep the ride you have now get the keys or you can just give the torsion bars 5 turns and that will lift your front end 3''..i did my 2500 suburban,,keys and added a rear leaf and installed 285/75/16 on 16x8 rims..make sure you get 2'' lifted shocks or your truck will act like a pogo stick on the front end:eek: shocks,rancho rs 9000's or you can get the adjustable ones...

I run the Bilstein 5150 shocks and love them on my Excursion, you order them in the length you need and the valve rate. Call Top Gunz Custom they will set you up with all your needs.

It is my understanding from the research I've done that replacing the key only allows you to be able to turn the torsion bars past the max position set by chevy. By doing so your limiting the amount of travel the front end is capable of. So in theory if you have 20" of total travel, thats 10" up and 10" down, and you crank the torsion bar to raise the truck 5" then there is only 5" of travel left in that directon so you risk bottoming out the suspension.

Fixx
 

The keys are re positioned so you dont have to crank up the torsion bars to get the 2-3'' of lift..example the torsion bar is like looking into a 6 point socket,take 2 points and put them at 12 and 6 o'clock which is stock,now turn the points to 2 and 7 o'clock..they give you lift with out having to crank up the torsion bars and that when you loose your ride quality and the front end acts like a pogo stick..

one thing i forgot to mention after installing them you need to loosen all the control arm bolts to reposition the control arm bushings or they will fall apart..set the truck down and after adjusting your torsion bars to the stock positions retighten all the control arms then have it aligned..

I have an 03 CCDD w/ 165K miles. At 125K I put on a set of Bilsteins. Truck is bone stock and always has been. The shocks didn't seem worn out but the mileage obviously said different.

I put Bilstein's on my 2001 2500HD and will most likely be putting them on my 2007 2500HD this Spring.

I have an 04 as well. All I did was turn up the t bars... You may not need to change the keys. Look at the t bar adjusting screws now. If they are out and showing threads, you can turn it up....
Mine went up 1.5".
I have Bilstein 5150 shocks. You need to buy the longer than stock ones... If not you'll tear the eyelet off if the suspension tops out.
I run 285/70-17 Nittos on 17x8.5 Welds