New electric brakes
 

Just had my 1999 Heritage tri axle completely redone with electric brakes and LEDs everywhere! Never had anything but surge brakes before. Looking forward to having brakes while backing my heavy pig down a steep ramp. Also not going to miss the clank of the surge actuator at every stop and go!

Did you go with EOH or straight electric?

Straight electric. My trailer sat for a long time before I got it. Master cylinder and lines were all shot.

I am interested in how it works for you. I am at the stage of getting ready to make the switch from the surge breaks, I was planning on going EOH.

May be good if your current system is in decent shape. I didn't want to pay for and maintain two systems. No more fluid and moisture in lines to deal with.

The insides of the drums looked like there might have been something that resembled brake shoes in there at some point in time.:eek:

Have you had a chance to give your new brakes a work out yet?

I've had straight electric for a long time on several trailers. I love them. Easy to maintain, and never had any issues with them.

I was looking to do just EOH, but after I add up all the needed parts (Actuator, Ford/Chevy adaptor, new bearings, new brake pads, additional set of brakes for third axle, new brake lines) I am looking at about $1200. To do all electric brakes with all new parts on all three axles I am looking at $550.

This $650 in savings softens the blow for the 8 new maxxis 10 ply tires, new LED lights and new wiring, and a solid coupler that I have already purchased for this year.

I don’t want to cheapen out on the brakes; if the straight electric work good then I will go with them.

On a side note, last year I used my trailer 5 times with a distance no more than 10 miles each time with a top speed of 45 mph. This year I will pull 3000+ miles as I am going to the LOTO shootout.

Where did you get all the parts to make the swap for $550

X2!

I priced out the items on these websites:

www.easternmarine.com & www.etrailer.com (free shipping on orders over $150.00)

I also checked on www.trailerpart.com

so do you just buy a solid coupler and cut the other one off and bolt the new one on? im kinda new to this end of it and my brakes are shot

You do bolt in a new coupler. However, I have seen a surge brake converted to EOH that the surge coupler was welded solid.

I just pinned mine with three 5/8" Grade 8 bolts. Simple and strong.

Every trailer could be different; my surge brake coupler was bolted on, I found a solid coupler that uses the same bolt holes so I am just re-bolting on the new coupler.

I had my coupler welded and then painted to match the trailer.

All brake parts, removed old brake lines, completely rewired, all new lights, , new break-away line, new bearings.

I also replaced the controler in the truck, new fuses, relays, connectors, etc. Total was right at $2000.

I'm not looking at the invoice, but I think the service call and labor was around $7-800. It took two guys about 8 hours to complete everything.

I keep it out at my parent's house in the winter and that's where the work was done. I took it out and pulled a few miles with it. Nothing major yet. I really liked the feeling of the brakes. Here in the Cincy area we've had non stop rain. While boating season technically just opened, my marina is on the Ohio River and pretty much under water right now. It'll be a few weeks before I'll be able to boat.

for the guys that have all electric brakes do you unplug connector before backing trailer in water?

i havent. i just make sure not to put trailer in water right away after a long haul.

Are the brake solenoids made for water immersion? I always thought that the reason surge brakes were used on boat trailers is because the electric solenoids were not meant to be totally submerged. I too need to rebuild my trailer brakes, and electric would be MUCH better than surge (and cheaper than EOH). Any info is appreciated.

Ok, after going out and looking at several of the sites above, are all electric brake setups drum? I currently have surge disc brakes and really don't want to step back to drum. With three axles to redo, changing everything is going to get pricey, especially if changing the rotors. As you can tell, I don't know alot about trailer brakes.

Yep so do I but thats pretty much for the bearings,
I was wondering if you need to unplug the connector because of the electric brakes.

I was advised against disc brakes. Not sure why.

I plan to unplug right before it goes into the water but am looking forward to having brakes while backing down a steep ramp.

Im thinking the electric is the way to go. I've never had a set of surge brakes work as good and I like being able to adjust it with the controller

The best pure electric brakes I could find when researching what I wanted on my new triple axle were "Sharkskin" drums by Fulton. I have a lot of trailers (commercial construction) and I know that the drums just don't have the stopping capacity as disk or air brake drums. Some electric drums are not self adjusting either. I could not find a pure electric with disk. My new boat trailer has EOH on all three axles. It is the most fluid stopping rig i have had. The combo of the trailer and truck really feel as one. I'm not knocking the electric drums for an retrofit, because the hydraulics is about $600 for pump unit and $400 for the hydraulic lines/fittings on top of your cost for the disk. I will never accept surge brakes on a trailer again!

I am looking at Dexter, they have some Nev-R-Adjust Electric Brakes:

•Eliminate brake adjustments. Brakes automatically adjust to deliver optimum performance and braking power
•Reduce stopping distances 50 percent more than other brakes

I have used those on 2 trailers, I am very happy with them.

I have a 37ft trailer built by Load Master out of Ohio (2 yrs old). I have electric brakes on all 3 axles. Not 100% sure, but i think they are drum. They work great. I do NOT unplug my electrical connector. Loadmaster told me the solenod is sealed. Not sure of brand they put on. I do have to adjust the truck control to zero gain when unloaded or the brakes lock up with the slightest touch on the brake pedal. I love having brakes when backing down a steep slick ramp. Hope that helps.

Thanks guys, looks like going EOH is probably my best bet. With replacing all the rotors, the price of pure electric will be just as much if not slightly more than EOH. Just rebuilding my surge system is probably the cheapest, but I HATE that constant thumping of the actuator.

I just changed mine from surge to electric and the NEV-R-Adjust were only an extra $10 per wheel, figured that was a no brainer. If it ever quites raining here ill try them out.

with electric over hyd. you can weld the coupler solid . that is where the electric part come in , it has a electric pump to build hyd presure to aply the brakes when you hit the pedle . also the disc brakes are the best period ...