I dont really have a great pic of them but heres a pic of the guides I had on my old trailer....I had them snug right up against the rubrail.....with out them it was very difficult to get on the trailer straight....it would always be a little bit cocked to one side or the other....I went to a muffler shop and had them bend me up some aluminized exhaust pipe which I later polished up to almost chrome with Auto Sol, looked pretty good...I suppose you could get them powdercoated.....after that It would go on perfect every time......huge difference

I bought a new trailer,guides wernt optional and I was was planning to make something up, in the meantime I went boating without them, It seems with this trailers bunk design the boat goes where it needs to be much better and I dont need guides.

you can see the difference in bunk design with the new trailer in the second pic.

I absolutley agree with Griff here - with one qualifier. If your trailer and bunks are correclty designed, this technique will work every time. The trick is that your bunks need to be located outside your lifting strakes so that the strakes guide the boat onto the bunks. Some trailers put the bunks directly under the lifting strakes - because the stringers are there - for strength.

When I load my boat, if I back the trailer in too far, I run the risk of pulling out and finding it just slightly off center. The trick is finding the sweet spot between too far in and too far out.

i tried these last year , so far they work great. 28 ft boat on a bunk trailer http://www.easternmarine.com/Hull-Sa...-pair-86148-0/ i have an aluminium i beam trailer and just attached it to the i beam with bolts not the holders in the pic.

keel rollers in the center and v the crossmembers covered with wood and carpet the v of the hull will find the lowest part on the trailer the keel rollers like putting your foot in a shoe