A Towing question
01-05-2012, 11:40 AM
#11
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[QUOTE=billpor930;3586166]I guess I expected something more substantive, perhaps I was too optimistic. [QUOTE]
Bill,
Welcome - take us with a grain of salt. There have been some spirited discussions lately around SRW and DRW. Lots of opinions on both sides.
Bill,
Welcome - take us with a grain of salt. There have been some spirited discussions lately around SRW and DRW. Lots of opinions on both sides.
01-05-2012, 12:29 PM
#12
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Thanks for everyones input. EoH is something I'll investigate. Re. the SRW - DRW stuff, if I didn't already own the truck used for my previous boat which all up weighs about 6200#, and which you don't even know is back there when you're towing, I probably would have gone for a DRW. For the relatively small amount of towing I'll be doing once I fetch the boat, I think this will work with the conservative driving approach I had mentioned. -Bill
01-05-2012, 01:41 PM
#13
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Seeking the expertise on this forum. I will be towing a 353 formula with a Dodge 3500 (diesel) SRW. The trailer is a relatively new (2009) Venture, standard triple axle. Are Load distribution hitches or anti-sway devices typically used with this sort of setup? Thanks for any help.
I have an Eagle Custom for my 260 and the fit to the boat and the onroad handling and stability is exceptional. The combo only has a 450lb tongue weight which allows non WD towing with the stock receiver. Depite the light tongue weight it tows like a dream.
01-05-2012, 05:33 PM
#14
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Bill
Actually your truck is the perfect match to tow your boat. "select the correct tool for the job" "bigger is not always better".
Your boat does not provide enough tongue weight for a dually to provide a better or safer tow.
Sounds like you "know how to drive while towing". Thats the most important part of towing.
Second is condition of truck and trailer, which you have pretty much told us are great.
At this point you have everything covered to safely, legally, and easily tow anywhere you want.
IF you want better, your money can be spent in better places than a dually.
Sydwayz explained perfect about EOH trailer brakes.
Other things to look into...
Make sure your trailer tires are heavy duty enough, and inflated to the max PSI.
Truck tires are E load range. Inflate the rear to 80psi cold while towing, fronts can be less, maybe 65-70, personal preference.
Sydwayz had a good point on the hitch receiver. All 5 of my Dodge trucks were rated for more than your boat so I assume yours is also. But also make sure your Hitch drawbar and ball are rated for enough, and set at the correct height. You will be surprised how hard it is to find one rated over 10,000lbs. Especially in a local store.
Actually your truck is the perfect match to tow your boat. "select the correct tool for the job" "bigger is not always better".
Your boat does not provide enough tongue weight for a dually to provide a better or safer tow.
Sounds like you "know how to drive while towing". Thats the most important part of towing.
Second is condition of truck and trailer, which you have pretty much told us are great.
At this point you have everything covered to safely, legally, and easily tow anywhere you want.
IF you want better, your money can be spent in better places than a dually.
Sydwayz explained perfect about EOH trailer brakes.
Other things to look into...
Make sure your trailer tires are heavy duty enough, and inflated to the max PSI.
Truck tires are E load range. Inflate the rear to 80psi cold while towing, fronts can be less, maybe 65-70, personal preference.
Sydwayz had a good point on the hitch receiver. All 5 of my Dodge trucks were rated for more than your boat so I assume yours is also. But also make sure your Hitch drawbar and ball are rated for enough, and set at the correct height. You will be surprised how hard it is to find one rated over 10,000lbs. Especially in a local store.
01-05-2012, 07:53 PM
#15
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E-trailer has some good options on the heavy duty draw bars and balls. The high rise balls go up to 25k GTW
http://www.etrailer.com/dept-pg-Ball...-Class_IV.aspx
http://www.etrailer.com/dept-pg-Ball...-Class_IV.aspx
Last edited by rgrgoog; 01-05-2012 at 07:55 PM.
01-05-2012, 09:41 PM
#16
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So to convert to EoH would I need anything besides this? (brake controller factory installed)
http://www.etrailer.com/Accessories-...le/HBA-10.html
EDIT: guess not for single or tandem brakes .. I have a triple
http://www.etrailer.com/Accessories-...le/HBA-10.html
EDIT: guess not for single or tandem brakes .. I have a triple
Last edited by ICDEDPPL; 01-05-2012 at 09:45 PM.
01-05-2012, 09:49 PM
#17
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Iced,
I think you will need more than that. Some of the guys who have had this done will know for sure but at a min I would look at this link and I think you will need:
http://www.etrailer.com/Trailer-Brak....html?feed=npn
The actuator and the electric brake kit. It looks like it has some wiring and other small components to it. You should be able to use your current disc or drum brakes. I am assuming you have disc.
That kit says it is a complete kit to do it.
I think you will need more than that. Some of the guys who have had this done will know for sure but at a min I would look at this link and I think you will need:
http://www.etrailer.com/Trailer-Brak....html?feed=npn
The actuator and the electric brake kit. It looks like it has some wiring and other small components to it. You should be able to use your current disc or drum brakes. I am assuming you have disc.
That kit says it is a complete kit to do it.
Last edited by rgrgoog; 01-05-2012 at 09:58 PM.
01-05-2012, 10:18 PM
#18
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I'd talk to Champion Trailer Parts about what each of would need for conversion. They are very knowledgeable, and carry a ton of parts. Do a search, there are many threads on this conversion.
As a general rule, you will need an EoH pump, a battery kit, a pigtail, a method for fixing your coupler to no longer move--or replacement solid coupler, and a controller in the truck.
As a general rule, you will need an EoH pump, a battery kit, a pigtail, a method for fixing your coupler to no longer move--or replacement solid coupler, and a controller in the truck.
01-06-2012, 06:05 AM
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I am going to upgrade my trailer to it this year. I have surge hydraulic disc brakes right now and whenever I go down a steep grade and use my exhaust brake to slow the truck and trailer down the surge brakes activate and heat the rotors and rims up. I also want to ability to control the amount of braking from inside the truck with my brake controller box. It will also be nice to have trailer brakes when backing down some of the steep boat ramps vs no braking that I have right now.
