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-   -   A Towing question (https://www.offshoreonly.com/forums/trucks-trailers-transportation/268257-towing-question.html)

billpor930 01-05-2012 10:25 AM

A Towing question
 
Seeking the expertise on this forum. I will be towing a 353 formula with a Dodge 3500 (diesel) SRW. The trailer is a relatively new (2009) Venture, standard triple axle. Are Load distribution hitches or anti-sway devices typically used with this sort of setup? Thanks for any help.

seafordguy 01-05-2012 10:27 AM

10....9.....8.....7.....6.....5....4.....

Hematite 01-05-2012 10:45 AM


Originally Posted by seafordguy (Post 3586146)
10....9.....8.....7.....6.....5....4.....

Mmmm...I'm with you seaford guy.:party-smiley-004:

cigrocket 01-05-2012 10:48 AM

:party-smiley-004:

billpor930 01-05-2012 10:52 AM

I guess I expected something more substantive, perhaps I was too optimistic. I realize this is not the optimal setup (i.e.DRW) but for the minimal towing I will be doing I believe it will work fine combined with the ultra conservative driving approach I will use.

Sydwayz 01-05-2012 10:55 AM

They can be used. I've done it. The biggest question is your braking system before you can adapt your trailer to use a WD hitch.

If you have SURGE braking, the WD hitch system will resrict movement of the hydraulic actuator if not setup properly.

If you have the SURGE braking system, you CANNOT use the 3rd member attachment that is designed to alleviate trailer sway.

If you have a Electric over Hydraulic braking system, you can use a WD hitch setup with no issues.

You will need a Pole Tongue Adapter to mount to the trailer to make the WD hitch bars spread out to the correct 30 degree angle or so.

I've posted some pics of this setup in the past on my previous trailer. I've since stepped up to a trailer that is better engineered, as well as a 'heavier duty truck' and and no longer use the WD setup.

billpor930 01-05-2012 11:00 AM

Thanks Brian, very good points to consider. Unfortunately I didn't buy the trailer it came with the boat and only has about a hundred miles on it. It does have surge brakes which would not have been my choice.

-Bill

Sydwayz 01-05-2012 11:07 AM

Upgrade it to EoH brakes! There are a 100 threads on these topics, and I guarantee you that the EoH brake upgrade is the best money you will ever spend in towing.

Search results:
http://www.offshoreonly.com/forums/s...archid=5566782

My old setup:
http://www.offshoreonly.com/forums/g...tch-balls.html

Also, you need to look at the exact capacity of the HITCH on your truck. The rating of the truck and the rating of the hitch can and are often different. Sometimes, the hitch will require the WD setup to get to the max capacity of the truck. Ford was famous for doing this in the early 2000s. I don't like ANY factory hitches. Too bad Putnam went out of business, but Curt makes a great hitch.

verbi69 01-05-2012 11:08 AM


Originally Posted by seafordguy (Post 3586146)
10....9.....8.....7.....6.....5....4.....

That made me laugh out loud.....thanks!!!

Sydwayz 01-05-2012 11:12 AM

Some folks say the Equalizer Hitch is a nice setup for boat trailers. I do not have any experience with that setup though. It's a 2 bar system with no chains.

To follow up on EoH, I've towed the exact same boat setup with 2 dozen or so different truck and trailer configurations, including no brakes, Surge Brakes, and EoH brakes. EoH makes a WORLD of difference.

seafordguy 01-05-2012 11:40 AM

[QUOTE=billpor930;3586166]I guess I expected something more substantive, perhaps I was too optimistic. [QUOTE]

Bill,

Welcome - take us with a grain of salt. There have been some spirited discussions lately around SRW and DRW. Lots of opinions on both sides.

billpor930 01-05-2012 12:29 PM

Thanks for everyones input. EoH is something I'll investigate. Re. the SRW - DRW stuff, if I didn't already own the truck used for my previous boat which all up weighs about 6200#, and which you don't even know is back there when you're towing, I probably would have gone for a DRW. For the relatively small amount of towing I'll be doing once I fetch the boat, I think this will work with the conservative driving approach I had mentioned. -Bill

Hematite 01-05-2012 01:41 PM


Originally Posted by billpor930 (Post 3586145)
Seeking the expertise on this forum. I will be towing a 353 formula with a Dodge 3500 (diesel) SRW. The trailer is a relatively new (2009) Venture, standard triple axle. Are Load distribution hitches or anti-sway devices typically used with this sort of setup? Thanks for any help.

Ok, being serious If it were me I would immediately sell the generic Venture trailer and buy a purpose/ model built trailer for the 353. There isn't the slightest comparison in hull support, strength, rigidity and towing stability.

I have an Eagle Custom for my 260 and the fit to the boat and the onroad handling and stability is exceptional. The combo only has a 450lb tongue weight which allows non WD towing with the stock receiver. Depite the light tongue weight it tows like a dream.

offshorexcursion 01-05-2012 05:33 PM

Bill

Actually your truck is the perfect match to tow your boat. "select the correct tool for the job" "bigger is not always better".

Your boat does not provide enough tongue weight for a dually to provide a better or safer tow.

Sounds like you "know how to drive while towing". Thats the most important part of towing.

Second is condition of truck and trailer, which you have pretty much told us are great.

At this point you have everything covered to safely, legally, and easily tow anywhere you want.

IF you want better, your money can be spent in better places than a dually.

Sydwayz explained perfect about EOH trailer brakes.

Other things to look into...

Make sure your trailer tires are heavy duty enough, and inflated to the max PSI.

Truck tires are E load range. Inflate the rear to 80psi cold while towing, fronts can be less, maybe 65-70, personal preference.

Sydwayz had a good point on the hitch receiver. All 5 of my Dodge trucks were rated for more than your boat so I assume yours is also. But also make sure your Hitch drawbar and ball are rated for enough, and set at the correct height. You will be surprised how hard it is to find one rated over 10,000lbs. Especially in a local store.

rgrgoog 01-05-2012 07:53 PM

E-trailer has some good options on the heavy duty draw bars and balls. The high rise balls go up to 25k GTW

http://www.etrailer.com/dept-pg-Ball...-Class_IV.aspx

ICDEDPPL 01-05-2012 09:41 PM

So to convert to EoH would I need anything besides this? (brake controller factory installed)

http://www.etrailer.com/Accessories-...le/HBA-10.html
EDIT: guess not for single or tandem brakes .. I have a triple

rgrgoog 01-05-2012 09:49 PM

Iced,

I think you will need more than that. Some of the guys who have had this done will know for sure but at a min I would look at this link and I think you will need:

http://www.etrailer.com/Trailer-Brak....html?feed=npn

The actuator and the electric brake kit. It looks like it has some wiring and other small components to it. You should be able to use your current disc or drum brakes. I am assuming you have disc.

That kit says it is a complete kit to do it.

Sydwayz 01-05-2012 10:18 PM

I'd talk to Champion Trailer Parts about what each of would need for conversion. They are very knowledgeable, and carry a ton of parts. Do a search, there are many threads on this conversion.

As a general rule, you will need an EoH pump, a battery kit, a pigtail, a method for fixing your coupler to no longer move--or replacement solid coupler, and a controller in the truck.

ICDEDPPL 01-06-2012 12:39 AM

Hmmmm that don`t seem worth it then. thanx

rgrgoog 01-06-2012 06:05 AM

I am going to upgrade my trailer to it this year. I have surge hydraulic disc brakes right now and whenever I go down a steep grade and use my exhaust brake to slow the truck and trailer down the surge brakes activate and heat the rotors and rims up. I also want to ability to control the amount of braking from inside the truck with my brake controller box. It will also be nice to have trailer brakes when backing down some of the steep boat ramps vs no braking that I have right now.

Sydwayz 01-06-2012 10:20 AM


Originally Posted by rgrgoog (Post 3586822)
I am going to upgrade my trailer to it this year. I have surge hydraulic disc brakes right now and whenever I go down a steep grade and use my exhaust brake to slow the truck and trailer down the surge brakes activate and heat the rotors and rims up. I also want to ability to control the amount of braking from inside the truck with my brake controller box. It will also be nice to have trailer brakes when backing down some of the steep boat ramps vs no braking that I have right now.

All right on the money. EoH is worth every penny. And surge brakes only work when the truck and trailer are in a straight line. You have virtually no braking when you turn, swerve, or change lanes.

verbi69 01-06-2012 10:44 AM


Originally Posted by Sydwayz (Post 3587009)
All right on the money. EoH is worth every penny. And surge brakes only work when the truck and trailer are in a straight line. You have virtually no braking when you turn, swerve, or change lanes.

or backing down a ramp......(this one's important)..:grinser010:

wannabe 01-07-2012 06:58 AM

Bill: You will not need sway control if everything is set up right and with 3 axles. That formula should track straight. If not then something is wrong.

Wannabe

billpor930 04-22-2012 10:49 AM

Update - tow completed
 
Here's an update on the tow I made last weekend and why I originally made this post: Last weekend I made the tow - from Maine to the Philly area, about 450 miles - Formula 353, 2005 Dodge 3500 SRW, 2009 Venture alum. trailer. I had no problems, other than the trailer brakes (surge on all six wheels) did not provide the stopping power they should have. I am investigating. Supposedly the brake system was bled before I picked the boat up. The trailer looks like new by the way, very lightly used. Once I confirmed reasonable handling, I cruised at 65 mph giving myself a lot of space to the vehicle in front of me. Got 13.8 mpg for the tow according to the onboard computer which is somewhat optimistic. All in all, I'm pleased, but I'll fix the brake problem before I make any more tows.

-Bill

wannabe 04-22-2012 03:50 PM

Bill: Glad the tow went OK. Always leave your self plenty of room when towing. My big frustration in towing is I get the people who pass me on the highway then cut in front of me to make an exit causing me to slam on my brakes.

Wannabe

Plowtownmissile 04-22-2012 06:33 PM


Originally Posted by billpor930 (Post 3669917)
Here's an update on the tow I made last weekend and why I originally made this post: Last weekend I made the tow - from Maine to the Philly area, about 450 miles - Formula 353, 2005 Dodge 3500 SRW, 2009 Venture alum. trailer. I had no problems, other than the trailer brakes (surge on all six wheels) did not provide the stopping power they should have. I am investigating. Supposedly the brake system was bled before I picked the boat up. The trailer looks like new by the way, very lightly used. Once I confirmed reasonable handling, I cruised at 65 mph giving myself a lot of space to the vehicle in front of me. Got 13.8 mpg for the tow according to the onboard computer which is somewhat optimistic. All in all, I'm pleased, but I'll fix the brake problem before I make any more tows.

-Bill

Glad to hear it went good. Definitely check the brakes. My Venture trailer pulls way better than my custom Heritage trailer that was matched to my last boat and the brakes on the Venture stop on a dime. If you've got brakes on all 3 axles, that trailer was likely made optioned out.

mittens 05-01-2012 01:38 PM

I pull a 342 Baja fully loaded, with a 2500HD GMC. Lifted on 35's it does great.

could use some extra braking, as my loadmaster trailer only has the front axle with brakes.

offshorexcursion 05-01-2012 05:37 PM

Glad to hear your rig towed good! I knew it would, and the more you tow the more you will get used to it, and like it! Your truck will start to be sad when its not hooked up!

Enjoy!


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