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bustedbrick 01-17-2012 09:11 PM

Is this bad?
 
2 Attachment(s)
Removed from my truck tonight. The photo on the left is exactly what I saw when I pulled the wheel off. A few weeks ago, I had the dealer check the brakes for a grinding noise and got an all-clear!!! :eek:

The right brake was perfectly good, plenty of pad left and rotor in good shape.

Replaced both, took about 1.5 hours.

Check those brakes!

chewyjr18 01-17-2012 09:19 PM

hope you replaced the rotors to...

bustedbrick 01-17-2012 09:27 PM

1 Attachment(s)
Nah, I figured it has just been "turned"......:drink:

spazboz 01-17-2012 09:33 PM


Originally Posted by bustedbrick (Post 3595763)
Nah, I figured it has just been "turned"......:drink:

LMAO All you gotta do now is switch the pads around so the other side "Turns" itself! :lolhit:

rgrgoog 01-17-2012 10:14 PM


Originally Posted by spazboz (Post 3595766)
LMAO All you gotta do now is switch the pads around so the other side "Turns" itself! :lolhit:

:lolhit::coolcowboy:

Expensive Date 01-17-2012 10:30 PM

Keep an eye on it its odd for one side to wear that much more than the other. Could be a bad brake hose (collapsed) or just corrosion were the caliper slides that was not allowing it to return.

Jay Gadsby 01-17-2012 10:30 PM

Ouch, is that on a Ford? Had a very similar issue with an F250 7.3L one day. Even the caliper needed replacing after that.

mike tkach 01-17-2012 10:44 PM


Originally Posted by bustedbrick (Post 3595749)
Removed from my truck tonight. The photo on the left is exactly what I saw when I pulled the wheel off. A few weeks ago, I had the dealer check the brakes for a grinding noise and got an all-clear!!! :eek:

The right brake was perfectly good, plenty of pad left and rotor in good shape.

Replaced both, took about 1.5 hours.

Check those brakes!

its only bad if you need to stop:lolhit:,the scarry thing is a dealer said it was good to go,usually they will tell you the brakes are shot,even if they are new.

offshorexcursion 01-17-2012 11:03 PM

Something else caused that wear. Need to find out what or it will just happen again.

Caliper could be sticking, etc.

BONDO10 01-18-2012 06:19 AM

If it's a Ford you need to lube the caliper hardware/slide at least once a year. More often if your backing in the water. I lube all four caliper slides twice a year,or every time I rotate the tires.

575cat 01-18-2012 08:56 AM

Typical super duty , seized up caliper slides , 07s and newer are getting worse, leaking caliper pistons, frozen slides even on low mileage late models .

575cat 01-18-2012 08:58 AM

typical superduty seized up slides . 07s and later are even worse , frozen slides, leaking pistons even late model low mileage trucks .

bustedbrick 01-18-2012 09:19 AM

Yep, super duty. I have the temp gun in the truck to check to see if it's dragging. The pins felt fine on both calipers and no leaks, but I appreciate the advice and will lube both of them.

Last year I had a front right caliper stick, both pins were frozen up completely. I replaced the caliper. I then checked the front left caliper and there was zero lube on the sliders, bone dry and rusty. Replaced those too but reused the caliper and bracket itself.

I guess its time to do the same on the rears.

Thanks!

Hematite 01-18-2012 10:25 AM


Originally Posted by BONDO10 (Post 3595866)
If it's a Ford you need to lube the caliper hardware/slide at least once a year. More often if your backing in the water. I lube all four caliper slides twice a year,or every time I rotate the tires.

Actually, a good practice on any vehicle when rotating tires.

Too Stroked 01-18-2012 10:29 AM

Does that pad now get classified as "metallic?" :lolhit:

And as others have said, on Ford Super Duty trucks, the rear caliper pins and sliders need occasional attention. Looks like the caliper hung up on yours.

4bus 01-18-2012 10:55 AM

My 05 F350 SRW went through 7 rear calipers from new to 85k miles. (keep in mind we have salt water winters here) I am not hard on brakes, changed the pads only on the fronts at 50k and the old pads were still 65%.

The piston in the rear caliper is the problem IMO. It is made of a phenolic material.

Once that piston gets just a little hot it grows, and will continue to hang up. I even had one crack and dump all my fluid. I could never feel the caliper dragging with the diesel. I ruined rims, rotors, changed brake lines, greased the slides twice a year......still always got stung. I used to carry line pinching pliers in the glove box of my $58k truck, if I noticed the caliper hanging I would pinch the line to save the rotor and rim while I drove home.

Between the brakes and the $30k + in engine warranty repairs I sold the truck.

drpete3 01-18-2012 11:09 AM


Originally Posted by BONDO10 (Post 3595866)
If it's a Ford you need to lube the caliper hardware/slide at least once a year. More often if your backing in the water. I lube all four caliper slides twice a year,or every time I rotate the tires.

How is this done?

seafordguy 01-18-2012 12:36 PM

Busted - if I remember correctly you have an F350. If so I will say that in the last 20k miles I have had 3 of my 4 brake calipers freeze up on my truck. Started noticing a smell and tracked it to the calipers locking up.

Not much work to replace obviously, but I was dissapointed none the less. Of course my truck came from NH so it saw some rust on occasion.

Expensive Date 01-18-2012 08:52 PM


Originally Posted by drpete3 (Post 3596132)
How is this done?

Remove caliper, and with a thin wire brush clean were the caliper slides back and forth. Lube the area were the caliper slides in with a good quality grease. You don't need a lot its more to stop corrosion. Then reassemble, Lisle makes a brush specifically for this if you need the part number I can post it,any good auto parts store should have it.


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