I like my Diversi Tech hitch. It has worked well for 5 years. Only complaint is the ball bearings that are supposed to tighten up the hitch further have fallen out but I think that was only supposed to prevent rattle while empty and I dont notice a difference.
Rated to 10k
http://www.diversi-tech.net/Hitches%20Page.htm

They have solid hitches rated to 14k that still have the internal pin lock.

Personally when I am over the 10k area or on long trips (more than 500 mi one way), I prefer to use a fixed hitch. It is just more solid than any adjustable hitch.
My heavy hitch is a Curt Forged 18k. http://www.curtmfg.com/Category/174/...0Ball%20Mounts

I run about a 4" drop for my boat trailer but my solid curt hitch is a 2" drop. My reasoning is my boat trailer runs on 14" tires and sits lower to the ground. When I tow heavy, the trailer usually has 16" wheels so it naturally sits up higher. On top of that, a heavy load will also tend to sag the bed with more tongue weight so the 2" drop or even zero when flipped over will keep my tongue level.

As for your application it completely depends on what height your reciever sits and the trailers you may pull. For a stock 4wd truck, I would think a 6" max drop would cover you down to the super low residential utility trailers.
Etrailer.com has a good instructional page to measure proper ball height

If you have a newer 2.5", use a 2.5" hitch, not the reducing sleve. The reciever looses weight rating with a sleve and there is significantly more play.

same one I have..diversi-tech..really like it. I have a 8" drop and 9" rise for the trailers we tow. It has been tested to 20k..but is rated for 10k..

So everyone feels safe itch diversitech on a roughly 10k boat or should I step up to their solid version.

I towed my 31SS with the Diversi-tech adjustable hitch. Nice product, but the locks were a little weak. I had to have two replaced. I'm using the Anderson EZ hitch with a locking pin, now.

My boat weighed in on a CAT scale at 10,000lbs on an aluminum trailer with fuel tanks half full. I would think your boat would be a little heavier.

I beleive when I was in the hitch hunt, I talked to DT directly. They have to pass a series of tests with 3 times the weight at the greatest drop they want to certify. This was not just tow though a parking lot but fields, bumps, distance. It was a pretty expensive certification.
This was in 2007 when GM was first rolling out the 2.5" receiver but all DT had certified was the 2" shank. Looks like they have added a 2.5" as many of the mfg started going with the larger reciever.

People ignorantly buy a 5k walmart hitch and pull large amounts without failure.
I have scaled at 26,500 gcvw with a large dump trailer of mulch for a 30mi tow several times (18k on trailer) at the zero drop. Assuming the drop bar is the weakest part ( I dont know that it is) less leverage should yeild greater capacity.

I think it comes down to use.
Assuming you are using the 2 5/16 ball. If you have the need to tow a variety of trailer heights or balls. The adjustable hitch should be fine, especially at minimal drop for your 10-11k ish load.

If you use it primarily for the one trailer and just like the easy removal and aluminium, the solid hitch will deliver a superior tow at a greater rating.

Remember you are only as strong as the weakest link, a ball with sufficient rating is also necessary. I remember my search for a Stainless ball was limited to 10-12k too. Which should be enough for your load but just saying......

What you trying to say since mines older its heavier and out of shape :lolhit:

No offense, but ya. In 2003, Sonic started vacuum bagging and the boats are a bit lighter.

Sounds like he was calling you Fat :daz: