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Originally Posted by Sydwayz
(Post 3735140)
Alright, well that does narrow it down a bit. Either that pump is not pumping effectively; or something between the pump and the calipers is jacked up. It might even be a kinked line.
My pump supplies enough pressure to immediately throw brake fluid 30 feet when there is an open in the system. I found that out on the trip up there to Boyne when I broke a brake line outside of Cleveland. I'd look to see how effective the pump is operating and pushing fluid down the line by opening the furthest brake bleeder and checking things out moving forward. |
Originally Posted by wrinkleface
(Post 3735154)
I appreciate your understanding but feel this is not 4 me 2 do, new trailer, truck that worked fine w/ 6 year old myco!!! this should b done under their X & $!!! I have paid 2 change out my controller, bought a new 1 they recommended, just bought $25 worth of wire 4 nothing 2 try the ground thing???????? granted they did not ask me 2 do that but I"m try'n what I can 2 get these brakes work'n right! last I talked 2 them they said it was my truck!!! myself & others I talk 2 don't think so again esp based on the previous trailer worked fine!!! I am not gunna pay somebody 2 start go'n over my truck w/ noth'n 2 go on!!!
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Sounds like a trailer issue, such as drum brakes that are not adj out right and the delay is do to the time required to extend the shoes out. But with this being a new trailer and I'm going to assume disc brakes, that doesn't apply here????
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I have an 08 450, just tried a Buds 2011 Ford 1 ton, same delay, fella that towed it up from NT had a 2010 Dodge w/ delay also!!! As far as I am concerned, this IS NOT A TRUCK ISSUE!!!!!!! Myco, step up!!!!
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Originally Posted by US1 Fountain
(Post 3735605)
Sounds like a trailer issue, such as drum brakes that are not adj out right and the delay is do to the time required to extend the shoes out. But with this being a new trailer and I'm going to assume disc brakes, that doesn't apply here????
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I have an e-manual for Titan and was reading the installation instructions and came across this paragraph. Don't know if you have tried this yet, but it sounds just like the problem your having:
4.1 All models of the BrakeRite are 12 Volt DC with negative ground. Improper connections and grounding can and will result in damage to the systems. For both the BrakeRite EHB & BrakeRite II SD 12 gauge or larger wire must be run from the towing vehicle battery to the BrakeRite with either a 30 amp fuse or circuit breaker for protection. The control leads for the BrakeRite EHB & BrakeRite II SD and all leads for the BrakeRite II RF 16 gauge or larger wires must be used. If light wiring is used for the power leads low voltages will result with slower response times and generally poor performance of the brake system. Hope this helps, electrical problems are the most frustrating to troubleshoot. I can email you the manual if needed. |
To bad your still having problems tell myco to pick it up and call manning have them build you one. Pretty sure manning uses carslile braking system not break rite..
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Originally Posted by bill63
(Post 3737611)
To bad your still having problems tell myco to pick it up and call manning have them build you one. Pretty sure manning uses carslile braking system not break rite..
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What type of brake lines, steel or plastic?
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Originally Posted by US1 Fountain
(Post 3737679)
What type of brake lines, steel or plastic?
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