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-   -   2 new sets of kodiak brakes not enough? (https://www.offshoreonly.com/forums/trucks-trailers-transportation/291169-2-new-sets-kodiak-brakes-not-enough.html)

Old Navy 02-06-2013 07:54 AM

When the shop put on the new master cylinder they probably forgot to remove the orifice in the MC that is required for drum brakes. Not needed for disc brakes. A few years ago I put Kodiak brakes on my trailer, it was money well spent. I think so they have saved me from a crash at least two times-both deer running out in the road.

Diego9040 02-06-2013 07:57 PM


Originally Posted by mrfixxall (Post 3862320)
unplug the trailer light plug and see if you can back up.if you can wyyle in reverse still set the emergrncy brake and put the vehicle in park..go back and look at where the ball part of the acuator is,if it looks to be buried inth the unit them you have air in the system,if not then they either put a drum brake acuator on it or the reverse lock out solenoid is blocking the fluid from going past it..

I will give this a try, let you guys know...

Thank you.

Diego9040 02-06-2013 08:00 PM


Originally Posted by 502ss (Post 3862340)
Not that this is causing your issue but any reason you didn't go with an EOH system instead considering you replaced the coupler anyway?

I am sorry I have no idea of what an EOH system is, brakes are disc not drum on 2 axles.They did not give me any alternative option really.

Diego9040 02-06-2013 08:03 PM


Originally Posted by pullmytrigger (Post 3862393)
You have a 272? I have a 29 F on a tandem with all elect brakes on both 6 lug 5200 lb axles. I can stop almost as hard as the truck by itself. It will really haul you down. Im super happy with it. You have brakes on two 5 lug 3500lb axles????? I know its not apples to apples but with my old trailer I completely replaced all four drum brakes on the surge 3500lb axles and I was not happy with the braking. It worked ok but that was it. Have you ever weighed the boat and trailer?

My boat/trailer/fuel/gear weighs 9K. So with brakes on 2 5200lb axles Im covered with 10,400lbs worth of brake. If you only have brakes on two 3500lb axles then you have 7000lb worth of braking. Your boat/trailer/gear may weigh 8 or 8200lbs. You need to weigh it. Its easy just take the truck and the trailer through the scale then pull over in the parking lot, disconnect the boat and go through again with just the truck, thats what I did you can do it in 20 min. I was surprised on how much it weighed.

Worse comes to worse, I will consider just adding another set in the remaining axle.I do have 5 lugs 3500lbs axles.

I will also go by a public scale and weigh both to see what I get.

Thanks

OldSchool 02-06-2013 08:06 PM

EOH= Electric over Hydraulic. Maybe your controller is not working or needs to be set correctly.

Diego9040 02-06-2013 08:40 PM


Originally Posted by OldSchool (Post 3862896)
EOH= Electric over Hydraulic. Maybe your controller is not working or needs to be set correctly.

Got you now, thanks , I have Mack at Doller Offshore replacing manifolds and risers,as soon as he is done, I will be running back to the trailer shop,

Here is the shop

http://www.seatechtrailers.com

Let you know how reputable they are once I show up with the problem.

the deep 02-06-2013 09:00 PM


Originally Posted by Old Navy (Post 3862416)
When the shop put on the new master cylinder they probably forgot to remove the orifice in the MC that is required for drum brakes. Not needed for disc brakes. A few years ago I put Kodiak brakes on my trailer, it was money well spent. I think so they have saved me from a crash at least two times-both deer running out in the road.

Check to make sure this orifice for the drum brakes was removed . It's just a sleeve with a .016 hole in it . If left in it will cause a lack of hydraulic pressure to your calipers . Sounds like your problem to me .
:
Originally Posted by Pwraddr View Post
So you did not convert to EOH? Just upgraded to discs and modified the master in the surge coupler?
Yep. You have to remove the check valve in the m/c that drum brakes need. (Not removing that feature is what caused mrfixxall's brakes to burn up.) The guys at Eastern Marine will explain how to do that. Drum brakes also require an inline fitting with a very small orifice (.016") to keep them from applying too quickly. This is usually a brass fitting, and can easily be drilled out to 1/16" or so for the disc brake application.

http://www.championtrailers.com/remo...dual_valve.htm

Diego9040 02-06-2013 09:13 PM

Will definitely look into this as well,thank you all

Diego9040 02-06-2013 09:15 PM


Originally Posted by sprink58 (Post 3862317)
Diego...what size master cylinder do you have? Make sure it matches the brakes.

Mine operates as if the boat is not pushing my Escalade at all...in fact the whole rig feels as though it's stopping faster. I went with the DeeMaxx System with two axles and a 12000# Master Cylinder. It really pulls down fast. Also make sure you have enough tongue weight...that can make a difference.

http://www.deemaxxcomponents.com/

My biggest test was on i-95 running about 65 and had a guy suddenly stop in front of me for no reason. I hit the brakes and stopped very quickly from 65...scared the crap out of me but now I know how good the system works.

Call me tomorrow.

John,

The master cylinder is a Titan 12000 lbs , and he told me when I back up it will not activate the brakes.

beefmalone 02-06-2013 11:53 PM


Originally Posted by Diego9040 (Post 3862931)
Got you now, thanks , I have Mack at Doller Offshore replacing manifolds and risers,as soon as he is done, I will be running back to the trailer shop,

Here is the shop

http://www.seatechtrailers.com

Let you know how reputable they are once I show up with the problem.

I'm VERY curious about this as well since I just bought a brand new Sea-Tech trailer and feel I'm having the same problem. Unfortunately, I didn't notice until almost 1000 miles later back in Mississippi when I had to slam on the brakes and didn't feel like I was getting any help from the trailer. :poopoo:


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