FIXX

iTrader: (2)

what kills the oil coolers is not changine your oil enough or lettingnthe 6.0 idlw all day and the oil bakes its self to death..running the 5w40 syn also helps out..

Pwraddr

Not true....the oil coolers clog up in the coolant passages from the silicates in the coolant. When this happens the transfer of heat doen not take place and the oil temp rises. This why you should monitor the ECT and the EOT, the spread at 60mph full operating temp on level ground should be no more than 15 degrees.

Idling the powerstroke does nothing to the oil cooler.

The problem is well documented all over the net, do a search.

FIXX

iTrader: (2)

ill look in the junk pile and find all of them,,the construction guys have over 6000 idle hours on their trucks and theirs are the only ones that needed to be replaced...all the coolend is replaced with fords coolent..i have done a bunch and my friend that has 30 6.0s in his fleet said and has the same problems with their trucks...ill try and see if he has his broken stash as well..

79formula

5w40 is better on 6.0s. Its not for the oil cooler though, its easier on the fuel injectors. Coolant is the enemy of the oil cooler. Run CAT ELC red coolant and you wont have a problem as long as your cooler is not already shot.

Fixxxer22

thats good to know. The thing is, im a little gunshy when I get a customers truck with no heat and i know why... Then I dont know if they are letting go due to improper torque using studs or the gaskets. So when I have the cab off I know that if I use the bolts and factory gaskets it will leave in proper working operation. Even my own truck has bolts and factory gaskets. After a oil cooler kit and egr delete she does just fine.

79formula

If the truck is an 04 or older, no heat can be caused by leaking wheel bearing/hub seals. They are vacuum actuated. When the seals go it also loses vacuum to the heater controls. There is a T in the vacuum hoses next to the vacuum pump and resivior. Unhook the line going to the front axle and plug the remaining vacuum line into the resivoir box directly.

07DominatorSS

Why isn't it good for the oil cooler? Just curious.

Pwraddr

He means the purpose of the weight is not good meaning helpful or hurtful to the oil cooler....more to help the injectors.

Make sense?

Fixxxer22

not to be rude, I am a ford master technician. I fix these trucks every day. If there is loss of vacuum the mode door will default to defrost. The blend/temp door is electric. loss of vacuum will in no way change the ability of the temp door. And part of my diag is to verify the movement of the actuator by doing a visual inspection by dropping the glovebox door and taking a look on the top of the blower case. Also a big clue is when the truck sits and idles the coolant level will rise in the degas tank. This shows the displacement of the bubble trapped in the heater core. then give her a good rev anb the level will drop the bubble is pushed out and you have some heat for the moment. I havent seen THAT many fail like this. But all but one had studs. the one that didnt is the truck i have now. and it got a short block under warranty before i got it and it was obvious the tech skipped one, two or all 3 of his 90s at the end of the torque procedure on the lh bank.

And for the PVH style hubs, If you shift into 4x4 and your mode goes into defrost, you know you have a leak. There is no vacuum sent to the hubs until commanded.

79formula

I rebuilt my hubs and went with warns, eliminated my vacuum to the hubs and my heater controls worked perfect after that.