Replacing Trailer Bunks
 

Several bunks on my 2002 Eagle are in need of replacing.

What wood are folks using? Treated or untreated. Cypress or cedar or pine? Or is there another material (PVC, for example) that I should consider?

Thanks.

Wood wise, Cypress is the best. But there may be some man-made materials that may work better, I just don't know of them.

Cypress choice one.
Plain pine choice two.

There was a post on this a few days ago that should come up with a search as well as a few others.

I would think PT pine, plain pine I would think you would need to coat in something

Treated 2 x 6's. Monel staples. Never had a problem. The wood is usually reusable once the carpet is shot but it is easier to cut new boards than pull a thousand staples.

Something to think about. Bunks on our Eagle Trailer needed replacing so I called Eagle and they pulled the file for the trailer and said $110 for all the replacement bunks. Our boat is 35' twin step hull so there are a good amount of bunks in various sizes. Eagle even offered for free shipping if I was willing to go to a nearby Eagle dealer and pick them up! In 8 days the bunks came carpeted all the way around and were exact sizes, I just bought new hardware at Lowes and went to work installing. By the time I bought the lumber and carpet then assembled, this was a no brainer to order already assembled.

Edited... Much better info below.

This is also my project this week. Lost a front bunk on the load in last weekend - almost all are rotten after a closer look. It's a 2002 Myco. Fortunately, I had some straps in the truck to hold them in place - and a good friend just happened to drive by and stopped to help (thanks Jacob!).

I just precut PT pine last night - hopefully going to ramp tonight or tomorrow to start the replacement process. Mine are through-bolted, so I have to drill, carpet, and staple at the ramp. Fun. :-|

Thanks everyone. And I might end up calling Eagle as VooDooBob suggested, might be the best way to go!

Cheers!

When calling Eagle have your trailer info ready, there is an info sticker on the inside of one of the rails by the tongue if you do not have your factory bill of sale. I bought a box of all new lag bolts from Lowes. Caution, make sure you measure up all the bolts up before install because many were different lengths!

yeah if the factory can do that for 100 bucks, I would wouldnt even dick with it.

see im curious on this because all pressure treated wood uses chromated copper arsenate or alkaline copper quat, which doesnt contain any salt. Im looking at doing my bunks just for good measure the trailer older. I think I have PT wood on it already but its coated in something black. Either way I have not seen any stains or what not on the trailer now. I would just see regular pine lasting a fraction of the time and becoming brittle. PT wood I would just ensure its nice and dried out before installing and ensure to use coated or SS fastners.

Thank you for that info. I did some checking per your post and you are quite right; the chemical that is used is no longer a salt. It used to be though, which is where I've had my experience. I got my info from Myco when I called them when redoing my trailer; and this was several seasons ago.

The big question: What are trailer manufacturers (Myco) using now?

I had some "treated" wood inside of an aluminum toolbox on my trailer. The wood and toolbox got wet when I had to back in deep on a crappy ramp. When I went back to clean it up after the weekend; there was around 1/2" thick of crap that had drained from the wood and affixed itself to the bottom of the toolbox. I had to scrape it out with a putty knife. It was nasty. Granted, this wood was not fresh wood, and probably had a few different iterations of chemicals in it. I see traces of this on my aluminum trailer on the bunk supports as well; but it appears as though this may not be an issue with current treatments.

I am going to spend some time examining the tags on the treated wood next time I am in Lowes or Home Depot. I wonder if different regions and mills use different chemicals. Folks in the midwest are not exposed to the same elements as folks on the coasts.

I've owned Prestige and Heritage trailers and both used treated 2 X 6's for their bunks. The fender boards are another story!! I went with 1/2" treated plywood when I rebuilt them. I've seen a lot of Myco trailers without these boards. I can't imagine towing without them.

I agree. My Myco does not have these, but my last trailer, a McClain did have them. The issue is the fenders vibrate so much that the wood splinters and they come loose ALL the time. PITA! I was always bungee tying them down.

Eventually, I'd like to have some in diamond plate aluminum.

yeah Im not sure. I know you have to be careful of PT and what it sits on. I would suggest its well dried out before attaching to anything. The wood is milled then treated and then sits outside and I dont think it fully dries out. Thats why they say to let wood sit a year before staining so it dries out.

I have no idea what wood the new bunks direct from Eagle are made of. They were completely wrapped in carpet when I received them. The factory lag bolt fasteners were nothing special, they were very rusty and not coated or treated with anything. I asked when ordering the new bunks for new hardware and the factory told me they do not use stainless or coated, the boards will wear out before the fasteners. They did suggest new fasteners for install, the new lags will "self tap" very easy and they did. The wood definitely was not PT by the way the screws went right into the boards without pilot holes.

Funny you mention diamond plate. I tossed that idea around but without a water jet to cut them out on figured they would be too labor intensive to cut and belt sand to my standard of fit and finish.

Yep,,,not worth the time or effort,,,,I just get them straight from Eagle

I did the same thing, but picked them up from the factory when they were in Michigan. Couldn't find the wood/carpet and do it myself for what they charged.

I ended up calling Eagle. They said they use Grade A pine, untreated, and so I did too. I gave it two coats of Thompson's Water Seal, spent a few few minutes with a pneumatic stapler and I'm in business!

Bunks
 

I did mine WAY different. I did not wrap the bunk. Wrapping retains the water and rots the board. I used DF from Home Depot. I routered all the top edges to a half inch radius, I then glued indoor outdoor on the top flat that contacts the hull. Used liquid nails.. 6 years now and still looks the same.

Pics and material list?

+1 Just did mine too. Local trailer builder confirmed untreated wood...said treated wood has chemicals that in his experience eats up the carpet in just a year or two. I was also told expect 8-10 years on the boards, at the most and I'll be at it again. We shall see, right?

If you plan on keeping the boat for a long time use Trex. Will last forever.

I was thinking dont they sell the boards int he composite decking material, if they are the same size, those would last forever you would think.

I know they make 2x6.

I know that, I thought I have seen 2x4 as well. Im sure you can find them online. Triple the price but no rot and no replacing again

Stapling into Trex and getting the staples to hold might be an issue. Don't know never tried.

Glue it down with fiberglas resin.

I would think the Trex wouldn't have as much support on the longer spans but maybe I'm wrong

I was thinking the same thing, it seems pretty flimsy with anything over a 1-2ft span between supports. I would think it would sag given a little time.

Totally agree.

Holds a 47' Fountain up.