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Trailer upgrades: tires and brakes...or new trailer?

Old 11-22-2013, 10:37 AM
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Default Trailer upgrades: tires and brakes...or new trailer?

Hey guys,

A few questions here thinking about my trailer. When I get my boat back from the shop I need to address my trailer. It's a 2005 aluminum trailer. I usually keep my boat on the lift so I haven't paid much attention to the trailer but this year I got a truck and I'm planning on going some places. So I need to make sure the trailer is in top shape.

It could use new tires. My trailer shop recommends Carlisle. I am reading around about pretty much every other big brand and every trailer tire has plenty of bad reviews. What have you guys been having success with?

Currently I have surge brakes. I know I want to upgrade. I was thinking EoH and discs. My trailer shop says keeping the drums is an option and only add the EoH. Has anyone done the drum option? I think I know the answer on what's preferable but curious how much better the discs would be.

Then lastly...all these upgrades won't come cheaply. Am I better off just buying a new trailer? What does a 32' EoH aluminum trailer run these days in Texas?
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Old 11-22-2013, 10:53 AM
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Call Manning Trailers in Michigan for a quote.
Call McClain Trailers in Houston for a quote.

Manning is better, but McClain is closer for you.

You may be able to sell your trailer to someone who just needs it for storage/service, and recoup costs for a new one. You do NOT want to skimp the trailer.

DO NOT BUY Carlisle tires. Don't buy ANY trailer tires for that matter as they all effing suck. Put LT truck tires on it and you will be happy. Depending on your wheel size, 16" will be easy to find. 15" will be tougher.

EoH on Drums has been discussed on here before. It works, but not as good as discs.
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Old 11-22-2013, 10:54 AM
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Thanks for the referral. My wheels are 14" so I'm having some trouble finding LT truck tires. Any recommended vendors?
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Old 11-22-2013, 11:07 AM
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Captain Yarr:

I sell wheels and tires for a living. The side wall force that is put upon a tire on a trailer is greater than on a truck. Also the load range/capacity of an LT tire will not be support the weight of your boat, trailer full and whatever else is in your boat. I would guess you have 205/75R14 on your trailer now. A load range C tire, which is probably on your trailer has a higher wright capacity than an LT tire. Think about it trailer 2K lbs, boat 7500 lbs and stuff 500lbs so lets say you have 10K lbs behind your truck. What light truck do you now of that weighs 10,000 pounds. I tell everyone the same thing that comes looking for trailer tires, buy cheap and replace often. A tire might look fine but its really dry rotted from sitting around. Air has moisture in it and when a tire on our cars/trucks that are driven allot the tire gets hot and dissipates the moisture in the tires. Trailers sit around allot and tire failure that I have seen typically comes from dry rot or over loading. I change mine out every three years regardless of how they look. I have been running a DURO 2100 series trailer tire for years, about 85 dollars a piece. just my 2 cents
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Old 11-22-2013, 11:13 AM
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First of all I am not trying to say anything is better than something else this is just my opinion. I tow my twin axle Myco with a 29 twin engine fountain loacally almost ever single weekend. With 3 or 4 long distance trips. ie Maryland to N.C. Tn. N.Y. Fl. etc. I installed carlisles last spring because the old ones just wore out. (LT tires). I went with them because they are 10 ply. They were a SOB to get on the rims and I have a tire change machine. I have surge brakes that work pretty good for me. Though I do have electric trailer brake set up on the new truck I have not changed over and not sure I need to. But if I did I would surely look into disc brakes over drum brakes for the simple reason disc are easier to change than drums. I also have a Heavy duty trailer for hauling equipment with almost the same set-up and that was last serviced over four years ago and so far not one issue. But regular srevice like grease and bearings with new seals goes a long way. I am not trying to promote any one store but I get all my trailer parts at Eastern Marine in Delaware. Maybe they could help with upgrade questions.
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Old 11-22-2013, 11:14 AM
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IF you are keeping your trailer, upgrade to 15" minimum or 16" ideal; wheels. You will find much better tires, and the increased size will mean decreased temperature which is one of the killers of trailer tires.

14" tires are nearly impossible to find, and 15" is getting to be that way too. In a pinch, you almost always find something 16", round, black, and holds air. When on a trip far from home, this matters especially if you have already used your spare. Such is also why I carry two ready to roll spares on wheels, and another older tire in the bed when on really long trips.
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Old 11-22-2013, 11:27 AM
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Originally Posted by MILLERIME
Captain Yarr:

I sell wheels and tires for a living. The side wall force that is put upon a tire on a trailer is greater than on a truck. Also the load range/capacity of an LT tire will not be support the weight of your boat, trailer full and whatever else is in your boat. I would guess you have 205/75R14 on your trailer now. A load range C tire, which is probably on your trailer has a higher wright capacity than an LT tire. Think about it trailer 2K lbs, boat 7500 lbs and stuff 500lbs so lets say you have 10K lbs behind your truck. What light truck do you now of that weighs 10,000 pounds. I tell everyone the same thing that comes looking for trailer tires, buy cheap and replace often. A tire might look fine but its really dry rotted from sitting around. Air has moisture in it and when a tire on our cars/trucks that are driven allot the tire gets hot and dissipates the moisture in the tires. Trailers sit around allot and tire failure that I have seen typically comes from dry rot or over loading. I change mine out every three years regardless of how they look. I have been running a DURO 2100 series trailer tire for years, about 85 dollars a piece. just my 2 cents
Fair points, but why do the top trailer manufacturers ship with LT tires then? (Myco and Manning)

The original LT Goodyears on my Myco were installed in 2005 and have been all over the US from MI, PA, KY, OH, IN, VA, MD, FL, GA, TN, NC, SC, and a few more I'm probably forgetting; on many, many trips. I replaced them in early 2013 after NEVER having a tire issue; over two owners and the original owner wasn't kind to the trailer.

Now, I HATED those exact same Goodyears on my truck, but rotated them over to my trailer after 1 year on the truck. (Such was my plan all along.)

To begin to answer my own question:
A LOT has to do with how well the trailer is setup. My last two trailers had plenty of tire issues. (First trailer tandem trailer, at capacity running ST tires; under 26' boat. Second trailer triple axle adequate capacity running off-brand LT tires, which I replaced as they blew with the Firestone LTs that Myco was shipping with; under 37' boat.) They were on the cheaper side (bolt-together Aluminum I-beam trailers), and not constructed like a Myco. The Myco is laser straight and stays that way being a welded trailer. I don't believe the bolt-together trailers possess that same integrity; again from my own personal experiences. I know not everyone can afford a welded aluminum trailer by Myco or Manning, but over-compensating on tires and replacement intervals eventually evens things out when you figure in time, frustration, costs, and the like.

Last edited by Sydwayz; 11-22-2013 at 12:22 PM.
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Old 11-22-2013, 11:48 AM
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go with 16 no mater what , LT worki very well for me . you can get heaver 16 tires also . I use e rated but there is also g , h . j rateing
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Old 11-22-2013, 12:08 PM
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My 2005 Eagle trailer came from the factory with LT tires. Trailer was ordered specific for my 353 Fastech, it came with the build sheet and custom bunks for the boat. Total weight with trailer is 12k give or take a few. Divide by 6 tires = 2k per tire. That's well within the 3k plus load each tire is designed to handle. When purchasing replacement tires look at the load the tire was designed to handle up to, get the most plys on the sidewall and tread you can find and afford, not how cheap it is for easy replacement.
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Old 11-22-2013, 12:12 PM
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I checked on what a new trailer costs and it's really not unreasonable at all. That leads to the next question...what is a 2005 aluminum I-beam trailer that needs tires worth used?
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