Tow tune for Duramax?
 

Anyone use a tow tune when pulling? I was thinking of getting a switch to go back to regular tune to tow. Mostly want it to help slow down. Any suggestions?

Do you have efi live already? I can email you a tune for it. If not call fleece performance or Idaho rob.

I had a 5 way tune from Idaho rob, was awesome. Left it in the 50HP tow tune all the time, comes with a turbo brake.

http://atptrucks.com

Yup, I have a tune from Idaho Rob with a dsp5 switch would recommend

I don't have EFI live but I was thinking of the dsp5 just not sure I need all of them. The only thing I can think of is stock tune, tow tune, fuel economy tune, and maybe a light HP tune. Not sure what to do with the 5th. Wouldn't I have to send off my ECM too?

Nope, just find someone with EFI Live and buy them another license to do yours. Way cheaper than buying the unit and it only needs to be flashed once. I think there is a dsp3 switch you can get and just run 3 tunes not sure if its any cheaper though

Dsp2, or dsp5. Just get the 2, one tow tune, one hot tune. Remember your trans readapts to power levels and driving style. Not good to keep messing with different tunes. A good tow tune will provide you with good fuel mileage and drive ability. Depending how you drive, what and where you tow a properly written "hot" tune could be used all the time. I've tuned a few dozen and most were a one size fits all. Race, tow, drive, if done right you can have one tune that does all.

I run a PPE level 1 tune (tow/haul) in my truck with a 4" straight exhaust (no muffler or cat). I tow up to 10,000, plow snow, run heavy with welding equipment, and tow my own and everyone elses boats. I saw a couple extra mpg over stock and a little more giddy up. Ive seen better mpg with the bigger tunes but the pyrometer dosent like them with a load. I run PPE because i got a great deal on it but i beleive there are bennefits to running an EFI live tune from one of the respected tuners such as idaho rob or the moonshiner. Dont run just anyones tunes though, some of these guys are a f**kin joke, do your homework!

So if I want to keep a stock tune, tow tune and fuel economy tune do I need a dsp3 or 2?

Also what's something like that cost?

You should call ATP trucks (or another good diesel performance shop). I used ATP for all my parts and just finished the install minutes ago. They were great when it come to answering any questions during the install. I went with 4” SS MBRP exhaust, downpipe, EGR block off plate, Edge CTS (for the gauges), EFI Live with 5 custom tunes by Idaho Rob and the DPS-5 switch. My tunes are as follows:

1. Heavy Tow w/turbo brake
2. Medium Tow w/turbo brake
3. Light Tow w/turbo brake
4. 90 HP economy
5. 120 HP (just for fun)

I basically wanted the tow tunes and the turbo brake but also wanted to delete the DPF. Everything shipped to my house was ~$1850. I’m sure they could hook you up with whatever you’re looking for. I haven’t driven the truck yet since it doesn’t go out this time of year but I wanted to get it done before I go for neck surgery this week.:picard1::(

I run a simple Edge Evolution tuner. It has tow, economy, performance and extreme tunes. I see a couple MPG gain on the performance tune and a very noticeable increase in power. Very inexpensive and I have all the gauges and a nice boost in power. Very happy with it.

Has anyone tryed H&S Black Maxx ??

I have a 08, tuned by duramaxtuner with EFI live with only the 8000lb tow tune..love it...

I think I'm going to use Kyle from Crank It Up Diesel. I got a buddy with his tune and his truck run great plus he's local. Thank for the info.

Kyle is a buddy of mine from college... I was going to suggest him! We drove bus together all through school. Haven't seen him for years, but if you talk to him tell him I said hi!

Talked to Kyle, and for $420 he'll do the 5dsp. Prob go with these tunes: stock, light tow, heavy tow(with simulated exhaust brake), fuel economy, and 100hp tune. He said it will only take about 45mins.

That 100 hp tune is pretty hot for a stock Allison. See what he would charge for a transgo Jr install.
Also the Allison has to "learn" to handle the power each time its changed so don't just flip the switch like the kids with nitrous.
If you are going to pass, manually pre downshift. Dropping the hammer from 6 or 5 is much harder on the clutches than from a start.
Hopefully he will go over all this and more but listen or you will be heading for a trans rebuild which is considerably more than a "tune".

The truck has 360hp now adding a 100hp tune I don't think is going to destroy the Allison, and last I checked they'll handle a lot more. But I'm mainly getting it for the tow tunes. If I want to romp on something I'll drive my Camaro not my truck. Thanks for the advice, but I do my research so I'm not a kid when it comes to my truck towing 15k lbs.

I would suggest spending some more time "researching" http://www.dieselplace.com/
It is generally agreed a tune of more than 40-70 hp will damage the Allison. Dmax/Allison is a very reliable stock combo but Allison WILL be damaged with much more.
It can depend also on how a specific tune brings on the power but from my personal experience, I hurt mine with a 60-70hp "tow" tune over the course of 50k miles of relatively conservative driving. (stock tires last 40k). Not changing the tune and letting Allison "learn".

Duramax can handle the power. Stock CP3 will run out of rail pressure and turbo will generally limit out before enough power is made to be able to damage the engine.
Consider this, GM strengthened the Allison before bumping up to 397hp in 2011........

I was honestly was prob only go with 50-75hp tune, and doubt I will even use it much.

That will be a little more trans friendly. Still might have him price a Trango Jr kit.
I paid for the dealer to install a triple disc Suncoast converter instead of the stock single on warranty rebuild but he would not do the shift kit and I don't have the guts/experience to do Transgo myself. Its on my short list before doing a dsp5. Would really like to get the turbo brake. It was not used/popular when I bought my LMM tune in 2007.

Two other things to specify-
1. Remove 93mph speed limiter
2. If he is doing it local, see if he has a Tech 2 and will modify your BCM to lower air pressure thresholds to 40-45psi so TPMS light does not come on when running 55-65 psi.

Efi live with 5 setting dps switch

Ive got the banks 6 gun, when I turn it up past 3 it goes into limp mode. On the scanner it shows to be running on low fuel pressure just on 4thru6 anyone have a suggestion? i pull with it all the time i just know how to not push it to its point.

You need at least a lift pump. https://www.kennedydiesel.com/detail.cfm?ID=399
The stock CP3 (fuel pump) has a tough job sucking though 20' of hose, a filter, then pressurizing to 24k psi. Lift pump does the bulk work so the CP3 can do its primary job of pressurizing.

AirDog and FASS are full package options. Water separator, Air separator, fine fuel filter and pump in one unit.
My FASS saved my AZZ last summer, catching a 12+oz slug of water that would have shut down the stock filter or worse. I never noticed until I did my 6 month drain which is as easy as opening a spigot.

My next plans are the lift pump and Transgo Jr.

Electric lift pump is one of the first mods I recommend for a Duramax, it's the only Bosch common rail engine that "Doesn't " use one... Second must have is an EGT gauge if you towing a bunch. Timing values in the tune can really dictate EGT's.

Depending on exhaust, tune power and other mods, they will average 1200-1450F EGT if matted when loaded. I got my buddies down to 1250F towing 5k boat up long hills sporting a 500hp tune. That's plenty safe if the the EGR cooler is out of play.

I love the DSP5 option, but it's hard on the tranny if you don't allow time or force it to relearn between stages. In other words, never switch from towing to a race tune at a stop light while setting beside that new Mustang, or you might win the race but lose a transmission....

BTW, I would let Lil Red tune my Dmax any day.. :ernaehrung004:

Johnny change your fuel filter. Lift pump shod be one of the first mods because it will help with cp3 and fpr longevity but I had the 6 gun way back and no pump it was fine if my filter had less than 7,000 miles on it.

s022mag
I put a diablo predator tune on my truck several hundred thousand miles ago and never looked back.
2005 Duramax. I spend $200 for it used. I currently have 315K on it and still running fine.
Longevity is great on this motors and trannies.. haven't done anything significant yet
You will get a lot more information at diesel place on them
Mileage is a lot better with the tune and I tow heavy regularly 10-12K
If you need more information let me know

Go to duramaxdiesels.com better site owned by real people. Nick sold out dieselplace and it kinda went down the tubes. It's amazing how 5-7 years ago everyone was willing to help tune. Now it's all hush hush and send your ECM out lol it's actually quite comical to watch it evolve. It's not rocket science it's math and seat of the pants.

Yeah it's gotten to commercial for my likes also when it comes to diesel tuning. Everyone acts like they have some top secret magic files they're using, when truth is it's no different principles than mechanics have used for decades. A buddy gave me some old well proven race tunes he wrote, which I then de-tune to make street or tow tunes by comparing to stock settings and plenty of test driving. If I send ya a tune, I could care less if you modify it or share with your buddies, I do this for fun not $$$...

Biggest problem today is the EPA cracked down on EDGE last year for selling "canned" tuners which could delete the EGR and DPF parts on diesels. That scared the $hit out of other big name companies like PPE, so everyone pulled those options. Now your only choice if you want big 5 inch straight pipes are using EFIlve or HP tuners, and paying for someone to write ya a custom file. Or like Red mentioned, send your ECM off to have return tuned and locked. I'm probably one of the only guys in the states who can even tune a 2011 or newer Dmax how ya want it. That's only because "Boats" are exempt from these EPA rules.. LOL

filter was changed after it went into limp mode, then we reset the computer and test drove it. the fuel pressure will drop way down when the rpms started getting high. so i think it needs something to help feed the fuel, Is there a easy to install external fuel pump for these? its a 06 with a 6speed auto trans.

Two most likely causes for the fuel pressure drops at high RPM:

1. Rubber fuel line section is collapsing, check for service bulletins about them. Will cause limp mode like a clogged filter. Diagnose with a vacuum gauge on the test port between filter and CP3 pump. Should not exceed 4hg at idle or like 10hg WOT. Please verify my numbers before testing, but HERE is a link to a post about checking it... The problem will get worse if it's a kinked line, while a lift pump will eliminate such issues going fwd.
Lift Pump I Run

2. Returning to much fuel. Typically from the pressure release valve on the high pressure fuel rail popping open. Normally won't cause it to limp mode, but is a common issue with higher HP tunes. Cheap easy fix. Ten minute job to replace with a Race Fuel Valve or you can just do a shim trick on the stock one. HERE is a quick video showing how to change it.

That's the easy / cheap fixes. If it's neither of those problems, possibly an injector or pump returning to much fuel, but not as likely.

If it has over 120k on it you prob need a cp3 pump. Not saying you won't find what kidturbo posted, but in addition to. I have yet to see one over that hold rail pressure. I know guys that replace them every season just to stay fresh.

Some good points that I probably should of brought up with Kyle, but didn't. I believe his tunes eliminated the EGR all together, didn't put a block off plate in though.

I got the dsp5 1)stock 2) light tow 3) heavy tow with turbo brake 4) fuel mileage 5) low hot tune 75hp

I don't plan on taking the truck over 93mph, but if I do then I'll call him back to see if his tunes eliminated that, good point on the tire pressure gauge but I think I'm OK there, I put some 420S on last summer and no light came on.

Thanks for the help guys, I think a lift pump is definitely in my future.

A tune does not eliminate the EGR it just instructs the vane to remain closed as much as possible. From my understanding, it will still open under certain conditions.
Blocker plate does block the valve but if not done well, can leak. It can also be a real PIA to get in place. I have mine programmed closed as well and have not had a need to inspect how well it is working but I assume mostly closed is better than open?

The 93mph is not a huge deal. If you have 75mph interstates and run with the flow to 85, 93 is not that much more if you are trying to speed up to hit a gap or pass.
Funniest was when, I got into a little testosterone battle on a two lane and I assume he had a tune but maybe not, he was messing with me as I tried to pass. I could tell exactly when he hit 93 and defueled as I drove around him. Look on his face was priceless :evilb:

Actually, I find myself cruising along slower most of the time in the truck vs a car.

I agree with kidturbo and would try a lift pump first. CP3 is likely getting weak but lift pump may help it survive much longer. Especially if you have weak fuel lines, pump can solve both problems for 1/4 the cost. If you still limp, lift pump was a great addition regardless.
Air Dog and FASS both have mounting brackets that easily bolt up, I don't know on the individual PPE and Kennedy pumps but assume they should be easy to mount.
I don't think installation is very hard but the proper fuel fitting pliers make the job much easier. I paid to have it installed. Those that do them regularly can knock it out pretty fast, know where to tap wires and make it a smooth install.

I am a DIY guy but my theory is, if I will only ever do it once, let someone else do it, especially if special tools or knowledge make the job much easier. If it is something repeatable like brakes, flushing or boat impeller example, DIY will pay bigger dividends.

Do not buy a Kennedy or ppe pump. I had at least 6 Kennedy pumps fail. And got told pound sand. The ppe pump is a rebranded edelbrock. I ran a Mallory comp 140 for a few years on mine. Made my own 10/2 micron filter and water separator system. Worked fine to 850 hp

Might have to disagree with ya on the fuel pumps Lil Red... :nhl_fight:

While Mallory builds the most respected gasoline race units, I actually run the 160gph Edelbrock model 1792 with an internal pressure regulator / bypass. Which as Red stated is the same unit PPE sells. "There goes my discount.." That PPE pump listed above is the smaller 120gph unit set at 6psi without a regulator. Either way, these are all re-branded from "SX performance", the true OEM who does make reliable fuel system parts. I've logged 4 years with mine feeding a 650hp Dmax in the boat, running mostly 80% biodiesel, a higher viscosity fuel. So it's got good motor windings at least..

As for pump problems, they're all rotary vane designs, same as FASS and other high $$$ units. Mine had a very fine screen on the inlet port which gave me some troubles in the boat due to some junk in the fuel tank. I finally got pissed and scrapped that screen, it's been fine for two years now. Easy to work on also, only 3 bolts to disassemble. Nice thing is, if these rotary vane styles fail the factory lift pump will still pull fuel thru the electric lift. I've tested this multiple times by accidentally leaving mine switched off. Just know there is several good options out there for under $300, so shop around and read reviews on each.

ChargeIt; your correct about that EGR block off plate. The EGR valve will easily blow open above 22psi boost without power to the valve to holding it shut. Acts like a faulty MAF or sticky VGT. About an hour to slide a $2 piece of steel in there and that problem is gone, along with that risk of melting the cooler down. Easy DIY job for a Sunday afternoon.