Sydwayz

iTrader: (1)

I'm going to check out a local 24V 2001 Cummins Ram 2500 4x4 longbed near me tonight.
I'm looking for a beater truck to run errands in, and tow more than a jet-ski.

I have a 2000 Ram 2500 now, with the 5.9 GAS engine. I know what to check out on the truck. I KNOW ALL ABOUT THE DASH CRACKING ISSUES, AND COMMON RUST POINTS on a Dodge Ram.

It's the engine and transmission in the 2001 Dodge Ram Cummins/Auto package that I don't have experience with.
Truck has 217,000 miles on it. This will be a local truck only, but would be towing at it's limit from time to time.

Any pointers? Tips? Inspection points?

Couple quick pictures from Craigslist:

[ATTACH=CONFIG]525850[/ATTACH]
[ATTACH=CONFIG]525851[/ATTACH]

Exhaust manifold looks like crap to me from the picture, but is this normal?

Many thanks guys!

Jpzaluski

I have a couple of these trucks, however they are 03 and 04 body styles Honestly there isn't too terribly much to be cautious with. They are bullet proof as they come. Minus checking for things like blow by, external oil leaks have haunted mine in the higher mileages (300/400k respectively). Also, the trans in this should be the 47RE (I think that's what they're called), and the 04's went to the 48RE. I've put 2 transmissions in my 03 truck in 320k+ miles, BUT the upside is that this style trans comes cheap. I just pulled my Quickbooks up and the last trans I bought last year, WITH Mopar trans fluid was $1849 OTD. That's with a 3 year warranty from the Dodge parts counter. So even if the trans goes south, it's not the end of the world on one of these trucks.

575cat

Also the #53 block cracks ???? under the manifold on passenger side .

Sydwayz

iTrader: (1)

Good info on #53 block casting issues:
http://www.stamey.info/truck/cummins53blockfaq.htm

inlinepwr

If you do end up buying one the first thing you should upgrade is the lift pump. And the front end and the trans bla bla bla...

Sydwayz

iTrader: (1)

I already had that "problem" with my Powerstroke. I upgraded it too much and now I hate getting it dirty.
That's why I want the beater.

inlinepwr

You just want to make sure the injection pump is getting enough fuel. The stock lift pumps are notorious for failing and taking out the injection pump. You should at least put a fuel psi Gauge on it and make sure it's above 15psi give or take. You'll definitely be stepping up from the ford.

beaver 3

Watch your front tire wear for signs of the front end going south. It will with that heavy ass cummins. Get a box for timing and reap the mpg it gives you. Get an air dog, fass, etc fuel system, holley blue and a good filter after if your cheap and dont mind carrying a spare. Lift pumps are notorious for going out and taking the vp injection pump with them. The cheapest i have found a new reman vp44 is around $1200 just for the pump. They are relatively easy to work on as far as diesels are concerned. The engine should outlive the truck by a couple hundred thousand miles. And the truck will out live the trans.

murfman

As stated watch out for the 53 block and the lift pump. I've had 2 a 99 3500 QC LB Dually I bought it from the original owner with 124K miles on it Had to replace the lift pump twice and the VP once. I sold it at 220K miles to the shop I work for with the original auto trans still humming away. They put a flat bed on it and haul 2500 LBS of test weights plus tools etc. The trans started slipping in 2nd gear at 240K miles. I'm not so sure the trans deserves the bad rap it gets. They seem to hold up fine if you leave the motor stock and don't overload the truck. The 53 block is still ok on that one...

My latest is a 2001 2500 QC SB 6 speed. I bought it with 350K miles on it it already had a FASS, an Edge EZ box, Marine injectors, and a straight pipe. I got an honest 25 MPG driving it home From Terre Haute In back to Frankfort IL I was checking it because the fuel gauge didn't work. I fixed all the little nickle dime things before I tear it apart to repower my 99 Ramcharger.