You are putting more pre-load on the torsion bars which are a progressive rate spring in them selves.

http://www.cognitomotorsports.com/ch...eling-systems/

+1 for Cognito to level it. UCA's are definitely the best way. I have an 2003 2500 but I lifted it with their 7-9" kit. Tows great and no sagging towing my 32. Also look into their steering upgrades... well worth the money. http://www.cognitomotorsports.com/ch...ring-upgrades/

The A-arm moves in relation to the adjuster. There is no more compressing of the spring as in a coil spring. The only time the bars can possibly be preloaded more is at suspension top out when the A-arm is on the drop out pad (which would be quite a $hitty ride). The bolt on the key is nothing more than an adjuster. Torsion bars are linear NOT progressive. I am not being a smart ass here, I just do not like misconceptions.

Check out the Advantages and Disadvantages section.
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Torsion_bar_suspension

torsion bars are the springs, when you tighten the arm adjuster you are twisting the bar which is your spring rate, the front end has bounce right ?? no coil or leaf springs right ? when you tighten the bars it raises the spring rate therefore raising the vehicle, loosening does the reverse. The bars are just twisted to do the exact same thing as a spring, the leveling keys mearly index more twist without running the bold in as far, but doing exactly the same thing...

OK, go under your truck and draw a white straight line all the way down the bar, now move the ADJUSTERS all the way in...does the line twist? NO

Now adjust the adjusters all the way out...does the line twist? NO

You are attempting to say that changing an index gives the bar more twist...it does not work like that. Your A arm moves in direct relation to the adjuster. You are not changing the spring rate either.

let me simplify this, you change the angle of the adjuster and the A-arm angle changes the same. Get it?

WOW, how can something so simple be so confusing. When you screw the bolt in on the back of the torsion bar, all that you are doing is rotating the bar, PERIOD. To add "preload" to it, you would have to add more weight to the front of the vehicle and to "change the spring rate" you would have to change out the torsion bars. Whether you change out the keys or adjust the factory ones doesn't matter. The lower control arms cannot tell the difference.

go to look up torsion(means twist), also where do you think the spring for the front end comes from ?

Me and Snap are saying the same thing, you are not following it. After initial loading of the bar with the weight of the vehicle, the bar only "twists" more under suspension compression. I think you are the one who needs to go look up torsion.

really...try this one last time...each end of the bar has a hex, one fits into control arm, the other into the key, when you tighten the adjuster bolt you twist the the bar, the more you tighten, more twist, more spring rate as you push the control arm the oppisite way from the adjuster key

The sky is green. Pancakes. I like pancakes.