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-   -   What is the deal with crap tires? (MFG date code of 13) (https://www.offshoreonly.com/forums/trucks-trailers-transportation/339174-what-deal-crap-tires-mfg-date-code-13-a.html)

JRider 07-12-2016 07:38 AM
What is the deal with crap tires? (MFG date code of 13)
 
So, I roll up north for Boyne and have a blowout at 55mph within miles of my destination. I have 225/75-15 E load tires that have the MFG date of 13. I run them at 70psi and they are rated for 80. Looking at them I have at least one more tire that has started to separate/bulge on the tread. I have been down this road before, once one goes it is a matter of miles before serial blowouts begin. Is 3 years all I can expect out of trailer tires? This is kinda rediculous.

I also had the spare blow out, that was understandable considering it was date coded 05...lucky I had a second spare with me.

Sydwayz 07-12-2016 08:19 AM
How do you store the boat/trailer when not in use? Also, what manufacturer are the tires?

You can expect much longer use out of tires on your trailer.

JRider 07-12-2016 08:28 AM
Originally Posted by Sydwayz (Post 4458669)
How do you store the boat/trailer when not in use? Also, what manufacturer are the tires?

You can expect much longer use out of tires on your trailer.
I didnt really pay attention to the brand, I will take a look. The boat and trailer are in indoor heated storage. I did not block it up. This is the first winter I have owned the boat, history before that is unknown except it sat in Shogrens show room for at least 4 or 5 months.

Sydwayz 07-12-2016 08:44 AM
You are storing it right, that's for certain, but likely the original stint was what weakened them. They were likely stored on grass or something else that allows the moisture to wick into only contact portions of the tire, enabling separation. That, and not being protected from the sun/UV rays is also bad juju.

IF it were me, I'd do one of two things:
Upgrade to 16" wheels and 16" trailer tires that still fit under the fenders. The more wheel you have, and the more diameter you have, the less heat you have.
If you cannot upgrade to 16" setups, just replace everything with Maxxis brand E-rated ST trailer tires. They are far and away the best ST trailer tire on the market. They are the ONLY ST trailer tires I run.

Captain YARRR 07-12-2016 08:49 AM
My new trailer is currently in grass until I figure out a more permanent situation. What's the alternative here, putting down some 4x6s and backing on to them?

Sydwayz 07-12-2016 09:15 AM
Originally Posted by Captain YARRR (Post 4458687)
My new trailer is currently in grass until I figure out a more permanent situation. What's the alternative here, putting down some 4x6s and backing on to them?
2x12s Maybe even stacked up X2.
Get it up out of the grass. Some folks even go so far as to put teflon sheets on top of the wood so that water runs off around the rubber.

phragle 07-12-2016 09:21 AM
I had a "new" tire blow out once on my truck, 2 months old. tread separated at 75 and wiped the bedside. I called the tire mfg. about it. They had me read the date code off the tire, 3 1/2 years since mfg. they informed me that industry standard on tire life is 3 years from date of mfg. and that the life of the tire had ended before I even bought it.

Knot 4 Me 07-12-2016 09:31 AM
I got 8 years out of my original Goodyear Marathons. Only replaced them due to age. Trailer is never left outdoors but my indoor storage is gravel floor. Never block the trailer up. Those tires were manufactured in Australia. New Goodyears are Chinese. 4 seasons so far and no issues. Would go Maxxis next time, though. Towing home from SOTPR in LOTO with a buddy we had a tread separation on his trailer and it wiped out a fender support and a brake line. No fun.

Sydwayz 07-12-2016 09:42 AM
Originally Posted by phragle (Post 4458704)
I had a "new" tire blow out once on my truck, 2 months old. tread separated at 75 and wiped the bedside. I called the tire mfg. about it. They had me read the date code off the tire, 3 1/2 years since mfg. they informed me that industry standard on tire life is 3 years from date of mfg. and that the life of the tire had ended before I even bought it.
This is the problem with a lot of "shoppers clubs" (BJs, Sam's, etc.) that sell 'new' tires. Many of them are quite old stock.
We did have a new Maxxis (200 miles on it) blow out the side wall too, but feel as though it was anomaly, and have had no problems since.

I expect a tire manufacturer to say "3 years tire life". That helps them sell more tires. For the most part, I hear and go by 7-8 years. But that does go directly to the manufacturing date on the tire, not the date on the receipt when they were bought and put on the ground.

The run flats on my Corvette were driven on for 15 years, only 1000 miles a year and still are holding air just fine. But they are now decorations with the OEM wheels on my toy box's wall.

Rollin1405 07-12-2016 09:47 AM
Sydwayz is right, unless you are storing the trailer in heated floor shop the moisture still comes thru the concrete. Any kind of plastic will act as a vapor barrier and block the moisture. Wood will not stop moisture, it retains it.

ben 07-12-2016 11:23 AM
I bought my 1992 boat in 2014 with the original tires, stored since day 1 in the guys heated garage and only towed 100yds away to the boat ramp or 5 miles to the marina for maintenance. with only 134 original hours on the boat I imagine there was less than 1000 miles on them. I put about 1000 miles on them in the next month before one broke a few belts and got egg shaped and I replaced all 4. I thought that was quite impressive for a 22 year old tire and i'll be happy if my new tires are that durable. I keep the boat in a heated shop now and set the axles on jack stands during the winter.

08 fastech 292 07-12-2016 01:01 PM
Originally Posted by Sydwayz (Post 4458684)
You are storing it right, that's for certain, but likely the original stint was what weakened them. They were likely stored on grass or something else that allows the moisture to wick into only contact portions of the tire, enabling separation. That, and not being protected from the sun/UV rays is also bad juju.

IF it were me, I'd do one of two things:
Upgrade to 16" wheels and 16" trailer tires that still fit under the fenders. The more wheel you have, and the more diameter you have, the less heat you have.
If you cannot upgrade to 16" setups, just replace everything with Maxxis brand ST trailer tires. They are far and away the best ST trailer tire on the market. They are the ONLY ST trailer tires I run.
Agree 100% on the Maxus tires. I put them on 3 years ago and they still look new.

Dave

SKammeraad 07-12-2016 01:10 PM
i will be putting light truck tires on my trailers due to the fact that ive heard many people run them for much much longer and have no issues with them. ive gone through numerous sets over the years on my car trailer and those were all trailer tires. all of them have lasted no more than 3-4 years before blowing out.

Sydwayz 07-12-2016 01:37 PM
Originally Posted by kammi (Post 4458819)
i will be putting light truck tires on my trailers due to the fact that ive heard many people run them for much much longer and have no issues with them. ive gone through numerous sets over the years on my car trailer and those were all trailer tires. all of them have lasted no more than 3-4 years before blowing out.
Right, but you have to run at least 16" wheels to do this, and have the clearance for the tires.
Every Myco I have ever seen has come with LT tires on it. I run LT tires exclusively on my Myco/big boat trailer.

Heat is your enemy when it comes to towing & tires. The more diameter you can run, the more you can reduce heat.

Wasted Income 07-12-2016 01:45 PM
I just switched to load range G commercial truck tires on my myco. Goodyear G614 RST.

They are expensive at around $350 each, but man are they heavy duty....and they are way overkill for my needs, which is how I like to roll....so to speak.

I also got a killer deal on them, which helps. I doubt my cheap ass would have shelled out $1500 for trailer tires for a trailer that only sees a couple thousand miles per year.

Questofpower 07-12-2016 07:32 PM
I too have Goodyear G614 Load Range G tires and yes they are expensive even for me and I have an in on them. The thing to remember is yes they are heavy duty but you need to have a rim that is capable of the increased air pressure to get any benefit out of them. Load range G LT235/85R16's can be inflated to 110psi, normal load range E tires can only be inflated up to 80PSI most trailer rims are only good to 80PSI. Meaning you can buy load range G tires but you max carrying capcity does not change.

Sidenote there are other less expensive 16" load range G tires, you will have to ask for them specifically but you can find them look for names like gladiator (the QR35 is better than the QR25 IMHO) and Samson.

Sydwayz 07-12-2016 08:05 PM
Originally Posted by Questofpower (Post 4458961)
I too have Goodyear G614 Load Range G tires and yes they are expensive even for me and I have an in on them. The thing to remember is yes they are heavy duty but you need to have a rim that is capable of the increased air pressure to get any benefit out of them. Load range G LT235/85R16's can be inflated to 110psi, normal load range E tires can only be inflated up to 80PSI most trailer rims are only good to 80PSI. Meaning you can buy load range G tires but you max carrying capcity does not change.

Sidenote there are other less expensive 16" load range G tires, you will have to ask for them specifically but you can find them look for names like gladiator (the QR35 is better than the QR25 IMHO) and Samson.
G-rated Trailer Tires were discussed on another thread recently. My concern with them is I don't believe our 5200 -8000 lbs. axles and the like are designed to carry that kind of rotating mass. If you hit a bump at speed with that kind of weight; I feel as though springs (both torsion & leaf) could be at risk.

I don't see the need for G-rated trailer tires unless you are running a tandem-dually type of trailer akin to a semi-trailer's axle capacities.

Questofpower 07-13-2016 05:30 AM
Originally Posted by Sydwayz (Post 4458979)
G-rated Trailer Tires were discussed on another thread recently. My concern with them is I don't believe our 5200 -8000 lbs. axles and the like are designed to carry that kind of rotating mass. If you hit a bump at speed with that kind of weight; I feel as though springs (both torsion & leaf) could be at risk.

I don't see the need for G-rated trailer tires unless you are running a tandem-dually type of trailer akin to a semi-trailer's axle capacities.
You certainly bring up a good point. I have no idea what the axles/spindles are capable of. Just for refreance a Goodyear G614 LT235/85R16 weighs 58lbs a Firestone Transforce HT (one of my favorite trailer tires) weighs 40lbs. Load range E tires in this size can carry 3042lbs at 80PSI, load range G is 3750lbs at 110psi.

I have 7000lb axles not that I have that much weight on them, but the load range E's just do not have enough capacity to match the axle.

thirdchildhood 07-13-2016 06:52 AM
I also had serial tire failure a couple years ago. 3 of the 4 tires blew out and the 4th had wires protruding. I replaced them with a slightly larger tire with higher load capacity and keep them at max inflation. Hopefully they will last longer. Both sets are Marathons.

JRider 07-13-2016 08:12 AM
Originally Posted by thirdchildhood (Post 4459095)
I also had serial tire failure a couple years ago. 3 of the 4 tires blew out and the 4th had wires protruding. I replaced them with a slightly larger tire with higher load capacity and keep them at max inflation. Hopefully they will last longer. Both sets are Marathons.
I am not sure you want to run them at full pressure, what happens is the tires heat up and the pressure goes up, in turn over-pressurizing the tire. I was running mine near full pressure (80psi) and I honestly believe it was a contributing factor in the blowouts.

Knot 4 Me 07-13-2016 08:26 AM
Originally Posted by JRider (Post 4459127)
I am not sure you want to run them at full pressure, what happens is the tires heat up and the pressure goes up, in turn over-pressurizing the tire. I was running mine near full pressure (80psi) and I honestly believe it was a contributing factor in the blowouts.
Yup. I always air down a bit when towing in hot temps to compensate for the increase in pressure while towing.

JRider 07-13-2016 08:36 AM
Originally Posted by Knot 4 Me (Post 4459132)
Yup. I always air down a bit when towing in hot temps to compensate for the increase in pressure while towing.
Nitrogen inflation would probably help also.

Wasted Income 07-13-2016 09:30 AM
Originally Posted by Sydwayz (Post 4458979)
G-rated Trailer Tires were discussed on another thread recently. My concern with them is I don't believe our 5200 -8000 lbs. axles and the like are designed to carry that kind of rotating mass. If you hit a bump at speed with that kind of weight; I feel as though springs (both torsion & leaf) could be at risk.
Is it really much different than switching between aluminum and steel wheels? In my research, it appears as though lots of guys with 5th wheels upgrade to these same tires and don't have issues. I will report back with empirical data from my trailer...I've been rolling the miles on lately.

Originally Posted by JRider (Post 4459127)
I am not sure you want to run them at full pressure, what happens is the tires heat up and the pressure goes up, in turn over-pressurizing the tire. I was running mine near full pressure (80psi) and I honestly believe it was a contributing factor in the blowouts.
Originally Posted by Knot 4 Me (Post 4459132)
Yup. I always air down a bit when towing in hot temps to compensate for the increase in pressure while towing.
While max inflation pressure might not be the best for ride or tire wear, there is no issue with running them at the max pressure on the sidewall, assuming you are within the load rating of the tire. The tire manufacturer specifically calls out the inflation pressure while COLD. They know that the tire is going to heat up during use, and that's taken into account in the design. In fact, under-inflating them will cause them to run hotter...additional heat is never good for a tire.

JRider 07-13-2016 10:05 AM
Originally Posted by Wasted Income (Post 4459168)
Is it really much different than switching between aluminum and steel wheels? In my research, it appears as though lots of guys with 5th wheels upgrade to these same tires and don't have issues. I will report back with empirical data from my trailer...I've been rolling the miles on lately.

While max inflation pressure might not be the best for ride or tire wear, there is no issue with running them at the max pressure on the sidewall, assuming you are within the load rating of the tire. The tire manufacturer specifically calls out the inflation pressure while COLD. They know that the tire is going to heat up during use, and that's taken into account in the design. In fact, under-inflating them will cause them to run hotter...additional heat is never good for a tire.
The load rating is cold, given there is no hot rating you are speculating. I read that Carlisles are load rated at 10mph? WTF good does that do me? What happens at 75mph? This trailer tire thing is infuriating.

Wasted Income 07-13-2016 12:46 PM
Originally Posted by JRider (Post 4459185)
The load rating is cold, given there is no hot rating you are speculating. I read that Carlisles are load rated at 10mph? WTF good does that do me? What happens at 75mph? This trailer tire thing is infuriating.
No, I'm not speculating. I worked at a couple different tire shops in college, so I have some hands-on experience in this realm.

http://www.tirerack.com/tires/tirete...jsp?techid=196

For the reasons indicated above, It is also normal to experience "hot" tire pressures that are up to 5 to 6 psi above the tire's recommended "cold" pressure during the day if the vehicle is parked in the sun or has been extensively driven. Therefore, if the vehicle's recommended "cold" inflation pressures correspond with the tire's maximum inflation pressure, it will often appear that too much tire pressure is present. However, this extra "hot" tire pressure is temporary and should NOT be bled off to return the tire pressure to within the maximum inflation pressure value branded on the tire. If the "cold" tire pressure was correctly set initially, the temporary "hot" tire pressure will have returned to the tire's maximum inflation pressure when next measured in "cold" conditions.

Knot 4 Me 07-13-2016 01:08 PM
Originally Posted by Wasted Income (Post 4459168)
Is it really much different than switching between aluminum and steel wheels? In my research, it appears as though lots of guys with 5th wheels upgrade to these same tires and don't have issues. I will report back with empirical data from my trailer...I've been rolling the miles on lately.





While max inflation pressure might not be the best for ride or tire wear, there is no issue with running them at the max pressure on the sidewall, assuming you are within the load rating of the tire. The tire manufacturer specifically calls out the inflation pressure while COLD. They know that the tire is going to heat up during use, and that's taken into account in the design. In fact, under-inflating them will cause them to run hotter...additional heat is never good for a tire.
I only drop about 5 lbs. off max PSI cold (65 lbs. in my case). I can gain close to 10 PSI towing to LOTO in July.

Wasted Income 07-13-2016 01:16 PM
It seems counter-intuitive, but dropping the pressure could actually be causing the tires to heat up more. The more the sidewall and tread flexes, the more heat is generated, the more the pressure increases.

I personally run mine at 90 psi, even though the max load (cold...lol) is at 110 psi, because the trailer rides smoother, and I don't need the full 3748 lb/tire load rating.

At the end of the day, do whatever works for you.

JRider 07-13-2016 01:18 PM
Originally Posted by Wasted Income (Post 4459256)
No, I'm not speculating. I worked at a couple different tire shops in college, so I have some hands-on experience in this realm.

http://www.tirerack.com/tires/tirete...jsp?techid=196
Not quite a passenger car tire but good info. Still refuse to run mine at full pressure.

ezstriper 07-15-2016 09:52 AM
Ok, the real deal is, these tires being sold now days made in some 3rd world don't give a crap country are mostly crap !!! 1/2 of them you never heard of the name and the one's you have got from the same crapholes the others come from. trailer tires have little to no safety checks, so in the new world of cheap we got crap...

Plum_Crazy 07-15-2016 11:37 AM
1 of my Power King Towmax trailer tires lost its tread on the highway last weekend during a long haul. Another 3 were ballooning up so much the diameter had increased by 4". I put about 5K miles on them and they looked absolutely fine when I left. The date code on them was from 2012. I find it interesting how they decided to fail at the same time. Just mounted 8 new Firestone Transforce HT's so I can roll on with confidence.

ALL_IN! 07-15-2016 12:09 PM
I had my boat in the driveway while cleaning it up a couple of weeks ago. Pulled out to take it back to storage, and as I was checking my mirrors, thought why in the he77 is there a turtle on my tire???

Pulled the wheel off and found this on the inner side of the tire! Whew!! Close call!

Checked the julian date on the tire - it was from 2005! Wow - I had no idea!! I was so impressed with the age, I ordered another set just like them. Goodyear Wrangler HT 235/85/R16

They're not trailer tires, but they obviously held up well for 11 years.

http://i16.photobucket.com/albums/b1...so2kzcefw.jpeg

http://i16.photobucket.com/albums/b1...srl6zmrof.jpeg

Sydwayz 07-15-2016 12:36 PM
Originally Posted by Plum_Crazy (Post 4459939)
1 of my Power King Towmax trailer tires lost its tread on the highway last weekend during a long haul. Another 3 were ballooning up so much the diameter had increased by 4". I put about 5K miles on them and they looked absolutely fine when I left. The date code on them was from 2012. I find it interesting how they decided to fail at the same time. Just mounted 8 new Firestone Transforce HT's so I can roll on with confidence.
The real key bit of information here, is how are your trailer/tires stored?
I put TransForce HT tires on my last trailer, and NO issues.

Originally Posted by easyrider1340 (Post 4459948)
I had my boat in the driveway while cleaning it up a couple of weeks ago. Pulled out to take it back to storage, and as I was checking my mirrors, thought why in the he77 is there a turtle on my tire???

Pulled the wheel off and found this on the inner side of the tire! Whew!! Close call!

Checked the julian date on the tire - it was from 2005! Wow - I had no idea!! I was so impressed with the age, I ordered another set just like them. Goodyear Wrangler HT 235/85/R16

They're not trailer tires, but they obviously held up well for 11 years.

http://i16.photobucket.com/albums/b1...so2kzcefw.jpeg

http://i16.photobucket.com/albums/b1...srl6zmrof.jpeg
I ran the Goodyear Wrangler HTs on my dually for about 18 months, and HATED them for a truck tire. It was like driving on wet spaghetti.
BUT part of my process was I bought them to hold me over until I upgraded to bigger wheels/tires on the truck, and then I moved the same tires off the truck and put them on my Myco, replacing the original tires that were roughly 9 years old, also Goodyear Wrangler HTs.

30ftpanther 07-15-2016 01:35 PM
I run bias-ply tires on a three axle trailer, easier on trailer in tight turns and more durable. They run the same temperature as my radial truck tires at 75mph.


http://www.tires-easy.com/8.25-15/po...tirecode/AQP41.

Plum_Crazy 07-15-2016 01:49 PM
Originally Posted by Sydwayz (Post 4459962)
The real key bit of information here, is how are your trailer/tires stored?
I put TransForce HT tires on my last trailer, and NO issues.
My trailer is up on jack stands in a heated shop all winter.

Sydwayz 07-15-2016 04:00 PM
Originally Posted by Plum_Crazy (Post 4459989)
My trailer is up on jack stands in a heated shop all winter.
And summer?

fossil fuel 07-15-2016 07:05 PM
I'm changing everything to 17.5" 215's are the same diameter as 245-16's. Load rated H. SOOOO tired of absolute crap 16's. Marathons,Carlisle Trailer service only crap crap. When a tire blows I don't even flinch anymore. New 17.5's so far so good!

Plum_Crazy 07-16-2016 10:31 AM
Originally Posted by Sydwayz (Post 4460033)
And summer?
Still in the shop, but on the ground. I trailer 100 miles round trip every time I visit my home waters.

Sydwayz 07-17-2016 09:53 AM
Originally Posted by Plum_Crazy (Post 4460281)
Still in the shop, but on the ground. I trailer 100 miles round trip every time I visit my home waters.
You should be good with the better brand tires then. I can't say what was contributing to your Power Kings coming apart, but the tires on my former McClain trailer were Power Kings which also started to fail in succession, and I went with the Firestones.

MonkeySea2 08-01-2016 12:15 PM
I just got home from a trip from PA to VA. I blew 3 tires within 100 miles! 225/75R15 LRE Tow Master tires. The tread totally separated. Replaced with the only ones the shop had, Super Cargo. Ended up puncturing one of them cause a screw was sticking out of the fender from the previous blow out. So sick of trailers and tires!! I picked up 2 Carlise HD for spares because again, that's what the shop had and I was in a pinch. I store my trailer on jack stands in the winter and the driveway in the summer with the tires covered from the sun. Gonna also check my axle alignment since the tires overheated and separated.

SB 08-01-2016 12:22 PM
Originally Posted by easyrider1340 (Post 4459948)
Pulled out to take it back to storage, and as I was checking my mirrors, thought why in the he77 is there a turtle on my tire???
Spit my coffee ! Lots of turtles around here.


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