Order your own torsion axles that are larger with a de-rated suspension.

Bigger bearings, bigger breaks, same ride!

I've had a couple of enclosed trailers (and still do). My suggestion is to spec (at least) one size up axle spring package than you are planning to haul. Overbuild it so-to speak. If 3500 lb axles will do, I'd spec 5000 lb axles.

everything he said is the truth. i have an all steel 18ft and i really wish i would have spent the extra on an aluminum. the paint fades very fast on all of them and drives me nuts. and definitely get the electric brakes. so nice

I Have a 22' Featherlite It is a great Aluminum Trailer. I decided to get a longer trailer so I could put just about anything on it.

I recently bought a 24 foot featherlite aluminum open trailer. I have owned a ton of trailers. Finally spent the extra money and got aluminum. No longer have to worry about the trailer rotting away or having to paint it every few years. One thing to know about the featherlite trailers is that they do not have a dove tail and they require removing the fender to open the car door. Nothing holds their value like a featherlite. I have had hallmark enclosed trailers in the past that fell apart in no time. Many quality issues from day one with hallmark. Jeff wurl

Yeah I've seen that done but IMO it's better to just go with larger axles then required, and if leaf spring than yes you can also run the heavier rated leafs.

But torsion axles are different and are designed to run at 70-100% capacity, so going with a heavier suspension capacity will ruin the ride quality. That's why I recommend ordering larger capacity axles which, depending on size, come with larger bearings and brakes, and lowering the torsion suspension back to the correct capacity the trailer will carry.

Sydwayz already knows this but Electric Over Hydraulic brakes are the best.

Try to get some type of E-Track under the tires to ease strapping the wheels/tires directly to the trailer.

Figure out how you get in/out of car on the trailer due to fenders etc. Or, will you strictly winch it on off the trailer.

If you go with wood, quick as possible replace the boards with tongue and groove retaining wall lumber, and squeeze that in. It will tighten up Your trailer very nicely. You can even screw these to the metal cross members for extra integrity. I also like wood for the ability to nail/screw blocks down as needed when needed.

Longer than you think you'll need is good, for most all trailers. Tool box is also nice. Even if you don't have a dedicated winch on the trailer, some way to temp use a winch on the front of the trailer is a very good thing.

www.tommystrailers.com I have an 89, looks just like the new ones.

It was only briefly mentioned, but removable fenders is also an option I have and love. Most of the time I keep the fenders off unless I'm hauling something nice. Having removable fenders also allows you get wider track vehicles (IE trucks, jeeps, etc) on without buggering up the fenders. Also greatly helps on super low cars so that you can get the driver door open. First trailer I had didn't have that and I got sick of dukes of hazarding out of the window.

^what he said! Measure your door height of the bottom of the door on your car and make sure it'll clear the fenders. Some trailers are built more as utility trailers with bigger tires and taller fenders.

Also try to get a longer dovetail if the cars are low. Most I think are 2' try to fine one that's 4' and that'll help load the cars.